Mikeb
chainsaw rebuild addict
I watched this video and it works on my 511AX and 520-120.
511A Grinder - Improvements / Tweaks?
- Thread starter Philbert
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
The tiny burr comes off as soon as the chain gets used. I suppose if trying to get "the max" out of a chain like for racing that's no beuno though.
I like that style vice, we have the other style on the 3 grinders. It wears out quickly. One grinder it's so worn it barely clamps.
I like that style vice, we have the other style on the 3 grinders. It wears out quickly. One grinder it's so worn it barely clamps.
The vise on the 511A, 511AX, 520, or another branded grinder, etc.?
A number of different vise designs have been used. On the 511A, I developed a wear spot in one clamping plate from the cam, but the plate was drilled so that it could be shifted over to a new spot. If you count all of the positioning locations of both vise plates, you have multiple wear locations until the plates have to be replaced. Similar vises used on 510, and other grinders.
On the 511AX there were a few different wear issues:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511ax-vise.228345/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-511ax-vise-update.276361/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511ax-repair-mod-and-similar-units.263497/
The current 520 uses a cam clamp that applies pressure from both sides.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/BenchGrinder_520-120.htm
Philbert
Philbert said, "If you count all of the positioning locations of both vise plates, you have multiple wear locations until the plates have to be replaced."
---------------------------
Amen to that. I'm on my second location after sharpening over a thousand chains. One common thing guys forget to do is clean the area where the cam strikes the vise plate. In time, it fails to hold the handle because it's simply dirty and/or greased up.
---------------------------
Amen to that. I'm on my second location after sharpening over a thousand chains. One common thing guys forget to do is clean the area where the cam strikes the vise plate. In time, it fails to hold the handle because it's simply dirty and/or greased up.
(BUMP)
So, I bought a set of the CBN wheels with some 'birthday money', after reading all of the positive comments on these sites, but I am not all that impressed. Less dust is generated, but the finish does not seem any better, and I can still 'burn' cutters if not careful. My opinion might change, but right now I prefer a well dressed AO ('pink', vitrified, Aluminum Oxide) wheel for general sharpening, assuming that I am starting with a decent quality wheel (Oregon, Tecomec, Total, MoleMab, etc.), versus a set that cost me 80% of what my Oregon grinder did (!!!).
I also still like the resinoid wheels for hogging off material on really rocked chains (even though they smell funny).
Also sharing (repeating?) a few comments passed on to a member who recently purchased a similar grinder - these apply to all:
1. Yes, these are 'semi-precision' machines, but you learn to 'work with the slop' and apply a little 'English' now and then to get the desired results.
2. I encourage people to take some scrap chains and 'play' with them:
- see how much they can hog off with a single pass;
- intentionally burn a cutter, than back off to see how light they have to touch it to not burn one;
- grind through a burnt cutter to make a fileable tooth again;
- try to make a mirror smooth finish on a tooth;
- play with the angles on both scales to see what kinds of shapes you can make, even if you don't want to cut with those profiles;
- try to match existing chain angles, then work backwards to 'copy' those angle settings; etc.
Then practice, experiment, and build up skill, knowledge, and muscle memory - pretty soon you can listen to the radio at the same time!
Philbert
So, I bought a set of the CBN wheels with some 'birthday money', after reading all of the positive comments on these sites, but I am not all that impressed. Less dust is generated, but the finish does not seem any better, and I can still 'burn' cutters if not careful. My opinion might change, but right now I prefer a well dressed AO ('pink', vitrified, Aluminum Oxide) wheel for general sharpening, assuming that I am starting with a decent quality wheel (Oregon, Tecomec, Total, MoleMab, etc.), versus a set that cost me 80% of what my Oregon grinder did (!!!).
I also still like the resinoid wheels for hogging off material on really rocked chains (even though they smell funny).
Also sharing (repeating?) a few comments passed on to a member who recently purchased a similar grinder - these apply to all:
1. Yes, these are 'semi-precision' machines, but you learn to 'work with the slop' and apply a little 'English' now and then to get the desired results.
2. I encourage people to take some scrap chains and 'play' with them:
- see how much they can hog off with a single pass;
- intentionally burn a cutter, than back off to see how light they have to touch it to not burn one;
- grind through a burnt cutter to make a fileable tooth again;
- try to make a mirror smooth finish on a tooth;
- play with the angles on both scales to see what kinds of shapes you can make, even if you don't want to cut with those profiles;
- try to match existing chain angles, then work backwards to 'copy' those angle settings; etc.
Then practice, experiment, and build up skill, knowledge, and muscle memory - pretty soon you can listen to the radio at the same time!
Philbert
Majorpayne
ArboristSite Operative
What brand cbn did you buy? I started with Forester and have Diamond Wheel now which I like better because they are lighter and run smoother. I like cbn much better myself.
Junkfxr
ArboristSite Operative
I bought CBN wheels for mine not long after I got it quite a few years ago and have never looked back. I hope that I never have to use a "pink" wheel again. That's just my opinion and opinions are like armpits. It would be a sad world if everybody thought alike.
Majorpayne
ArboristSite Operative
What angles are you using? My results look better but I am not going out there to take pics.
Not sure in that photo - 30°/55°/0° is my 'default'.
Couple of things:
1. I am often re-shaping / evening out other people's chains, which may be damaged, and which may be different than 'touch up sharpening'.
2. My opinion may change with more use. I will keep playing with these wheels and comparing them side-by-side. but I was 'expecting' more.
Philbert
Majorpayne
ArboristSite Operative
You surely will like them better. No way would I go back to pink wheels.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Still some of the best wheels I've used so far not so soft you can't take a decent amount of material but soft enough the finish is clean. The CBN aren't made for the larger grinders but I'm not seeing the big difference for the extra price.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Tecomec sells different wheels for the 5-3/4" grinders - some of which may be similar to those sold for the larger Silvey grinders. But it has been hard to get them in the US. I did get to try one of the 'brown' wheels (photo above), which was not too different from the 'pink' wheels (all artificially colored to distinguish grits, etc.).
You can get a CBN wheel made for the larger grinders (couple of threads on that), but hard to get a good corner for square ground chains, and you can't change the angles by dressing the wheel.
Philbert
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
All Silvey stuff runs the 8" wheel 1" arbor and at 150 a wheel shipped I can have a few different wheels with different angles for the type of wood I'm cutting that day. The wheel that is 100 grit vitrified do you have a bushing for the arbor? If so I have a few worn down wheels I could send out your way if you're interested.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
That would be interesting to try. I will see if I can find a bushing.
Philbert
Philbert
Send dimensions and an address and I’ll get one in the mail.....
Let me know ID radius/champher allowed.
Should be a little thinner than the wheel.
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2014
- Messages
- 7,785
- Reaction score
- 10,430
The pink wheels work fine, are very affordable and last a long time. For perfectionist that need to explore every possible solution and with money to burn, CBN wheels are the answer, to a question not asked.
Maybe not asked by many, but you are in a place with a large number of enthusiasts as well as a large number of guys who cut for a living also people who sharpen for others(some for a living), and the question has been asked by folks here. As far as for a guy cutting a few cords a yr in clean wood out of the back lot to heat his home, learn to file with a cheap guide and buy a few chains, then when they get all out if sorts and won't cut straight bring them to one of us to get them straightened out. You can also buy semi chisel chains and spend even less time/money on sharpening, it just may take a little more time in the cut depending on the situation
.
Majorpayne
ArboristSite Operative
A file works fine too. How many chains do you sharpen?
Sent from my SM-S903VL using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2014
- Messages
- 7,785
- Reaction score
- 10,430
Are you asking how many or how often, and what condition are the chains?
