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dznnf7

dznnf7

New Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2021
Messages
3
Location
WNY
After a bunch of lurking and gathering what knowledge I can, I'd like to ask a question of the experienced folks here. I have a 2016-bought gen 1 Husky 550XP [s/n 2012 5000658] 966 64 82-00] that's currently in "starts-occasionally or not at all" mode. It's been a a pain in the ass since new, with hot start issues and many of the usual problems I've seen mentioned . It's currently unusable. Like most non-pros, I use it for many hours a few times a year, not daily. And some of those hours end up being on my 20 y/o 350, which gets zero attention yet still starts and runs every time. I could upgrade to an AT-12 carb, pay a shop to do the firmware thing, and have $200+ MORE into a potentially nice saw. That's a good idea if it fixes my issues. Should I skip all that, sell it, and reinvest in a simpler, non-autotune saw and move on with life? Where do used saws sell reliably - FB, eBAy, here? What kind of price seems reasonable? It's in such great shape, and such a joy to use when it runs, that I hate to give up on it. But I'm no logger or arborist and really just need something that starts and runs well! Thanks in advance to the guys with thoughtful answers!
 
Andyshine77

Andyshine77

Tree Freak
Joined
Jan 25, 2004
Messages
11,154
Location
Cincinnati, OH
That saw was made in 2012. First thing I'd do is vac/pressure test the saw, a lot of them around that time had defects and would leak like a sieve from the factory. If you don't have the skills and or tools, I would chuck it and cut your losses while you're ahead, as it will have other problems down the road, even if you get it straighten out now. They can run awesome, but sorry to say they were also POS.

A lot of nice used saws are sold here and other saw forums.
 

J D

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Apr 19, 2020
Messages
679
Location
NZ
I second Simons queries, it may be something straight forward to rectify (especially given your infrequency of use)... if not you may find you can still sell it for a reasonable amount & (depending on what you're cutting) an Echo CS-590 or 620 would probably compliment the 350 better without breaking the bank
 
dznnf7

dznnf7

New Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2021
Messages
3
Location
WNY
Thanks for all the replies. On the questions: Hot start has been no choke, one pull, success OR not even a hint of ignition [but I confirmed spark, so kill switch isn't closed/grounded]. No middle ground. I've tried several of the hop-on-one foot, recite-the-lord's-prayer processes I've seen published and they don't work either. At no point do I touch the decomp, unless you count checking it for leaks and swapping it with a known good one. Why they bother on a 50cc saw is beyond me. AT has been calibrated once. No change in behavior in that era - maybe three years ago? Fuel is 90 octane non-ethanol, and I've recently tried the breathtakingly expensive canned premix with no joy. My own mix is using oil containing stabilizer, but I'll dump it if it's been in this saw more than a couple weeks. It has great compression and is unmodified. Spark is strong and visible in daylight. Air filter is spotless. Fuel is flowing. I have not pressure/vac tested it but I have the tools and ability. Andyshine's comment that they were known leakers has caught my interest! I pulled and inspected the carb and carb boot but have not gone further. There's no evidence of seal blow-by to the saw exterior, but as I re-read my paragraph it sounds likely, unless the carb is the root cause - I noted in my research Husky revised it six times, based on part numbers.
I found a conversion carb kit [AT12 and fuel line] for $160 and I'm tempted, but...like the comment above, I have climbed a mountain with it and had it fail to start. The fuel economy certainly was good that day! Didn't use a drop.
Thanks again, men. Lots of good thoughts here!
 
Andyshine77

Andyshine77

Tree Freak
Joined
Jan 25, 2004
Messages
11,154
Location
Cincinnati, OH
When you got start the saw high idle can be useful, to do that go to full choke that push the lever down like you're turning the saw off, but don't hit the throttle, that will leave the saw at high idle.

You won't see any evidence of leaks. The intake boots went through a time when they were installed incorrectly, and the o rings that seal the transfer covers were molded poorly and can leak. The crank seals had issues as well. So first things a 550 experienced guy does is inspect the saw for the obvious than preform a vac/pressure test the saw. If it's tight as a drum than you can decide whether or not you want to invest in a new carb, which if everything checks out is most likely the issue.
 
dznnf7

dznnf7

New Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2021
Messages
3
Location
WNY
I did see that transfer cover issue somewhere, probably on this site. I didn't jump on it because it seemed a bit "all or nothing", rather than something intermittent. I'll definitely check it then proceed to the pressure test. Thanks again.
 
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