562xp dies off idle. Help!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

scooby074

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
May 17, 2008
Messages
33
Reaction score
10
Location
Canada
Hi guys. Sorry for another 562 question, but Im lost.
I have a 2012 vintage 562xp that has always had running issues. The usual stumble etc. But now, besides the bog, its dying just coming off idle if you go WOT quickly. Like stone dead, like you used the kill switch. Not a bog, just death, in like 1 revolution. If you feather it, you can get it past the bog/kill and it revs and runs like a champ, just like all the 562s do. Off high speed, it returns to idle OK and will sit and idle fine.It starts pretty easy from cold <6 pulls and will start very easy after it dies in 1 pull.

So a little history:
  • About 8ish years ago, it had the carb and ignition update that Husky was doing at the time. It has an EL46 carb now, with coil to match. After that, there was still a bog, but it was better than before and better than it is now.
  • 3 years ago, it went into a local saw shop that deals with the woods guys and is supposed to be good. I wanted it to get a tune up, get updated firmware and to be rid of the last of the bog. They said they updated the firmware. They changed the primer bulb, installed the upgraded fuel lines and fuel filter, installed a new (old style) air filter etc. They didnt do any press/vac checks. They said it was running like it should. It came back basically the same as it went in.
  • Right now, as mentioned there is still a bog and most of the time it will die off idle if you go quickly to WOT. If you can save it, there is usually a little puff of black smoke. This is new after installing the new intake/air filter kit.. Ive checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner around the intake boot and carb(pressure/vac tester is broken). Ive checked fuel lines. Ive installed the new high rise air filter kit and removed the fuel tank vent line from the air intake and plugged it with breathable material. New sparkplug with good looking spark. Sparkplug gapped to 0.020" and ignition coil gapped to about 0.015". Ive also did a muffler mod and cover mod to try and keep it cooler. Ive done the Field Reset as per Afleetcommand's video 2x.
So short of firing the parts cannon and updating to a new coil and EL48 carb what am I missing? Is there a worthwhile Firmware update since 3ish years ago? Dealer here charges 1h labour to read and update firmware. Carb and coil would be a last resort as its well over $300 for the parts here.

Thanks for the advise!
 
I think there's a magnet on the throttle cable, it lines up with I believe a hall effect sensor. As the cable stretches, it won't line up quite right. It least theats what I remember.

The crank seals are known to leak, along with the transfer cover seals.
 
It’s a lean bog, in which the AT is trying to compensate for by making it rich. Your new air filter probably made it a hair worse. I’d go through the carb again. Maybe there’s some debris in the screen inside. I’d also narrow your coil gap to .008-.010”
 
Thanks guys!
I was unaware about the Hall Effect sensor, Ill definitely have to dig into that a bit further. I swear Ive read every thread on these 562s over the years and this is the first Ive heard of it. Any links to a thread discussing it?

I knew about the crank seals (and bearings) and really would like to do a pressure check on the saw. Pretty sure I will once I get a new pressure tester, but Ill give it a quick blast with carb cleaner to see if there are any obvious leaks around the crank. Would the transfers respond to being sprayed with carb clean if theyre leaking?

Ill reset the coil down to 0.008"-0.010 and clean the carb

Ill follow your suggestions first, but any sense doing a Firmware update, bearing in mind its going to cost close to $100. Carb and coil? I should probably be looking for another dealer who'll update it for free lol.
 
I don’t think I would do another firmware update. I believe it’s either an issue with the way the carburetor is built or the way it delivers spark. When you get your pressure tester, you might check the pop off pressure in the carburetor. It’s probably upwards of 30 psi, and you might be able to clip a couple coils off the metering spring and get it down around 20 psi and make your issue better. Also, when you have the carburetor out, inspect your intake boot and impulse passage for any leaks.

The transfer caps have four screws going into each side of the cylinder. They make an upside down L-shape looking at them from the side. A couple quick bursts of carburetor cleaner in that area should tell you if they are leaking. If they do leak, it’s usually near the bottom screw
 
I forgot about lowering pop off pressure, a coil or two off the spring sometimes helps.

Another thing is the 562 and 550 are sensitive to fuels and oils, if you run a thicker bike oil try something thinner.
 
Well I finally got my new Mityvac after like 3 wks waiting (tks Amazon:mad:).

Im in the process of making a set of caps/plugs to do a pressure / vac test but in the meantime Ive tested the fuel line to the carb and the popoff press.

So far I found the fuel line is leaking on the barb where it goes to the carb. Under pressure, it will create bubbles with soap. Under vac, it will bleed from 15-20inHg to "zero" in 40 seconds. Im not sure if this is significant? I can probably put a clamp or an o-ring on it to tighten it up. Its the factory formed hose. It doesnt appear to be coming from the metal barb or the carb itself.

Popoff appears to be close to 30psi. Maybe 25? Hard to peg it down. I think I should clip a loop off the spring? Little concerned about opening the carb as I dont have a carb kit and will likely have to order one if I damage the gaskets.

Oil wise, Im running Amsoil Dominator or Husky's XP at 50:1.

Im wondering if the transfers might actually have a slight leak. I cant believe if thats the case after all these years of problems with this saw when it acts up. The transfers are one thing that have never been touched by anyone. I noticed when looking them over today there was some dark staining or possible oil saturated sawdust on the bottoms of the transfers. Could be just natural sawdust and oil though???

I guess in order to remove and reinstall the transfers Ill have to remove the cylinder? Ill want to confirm the leak before going to that next level. Hopefully the pressure / vac test will confirm if there are leaks.

Over the next couple days I should be able to get some time to work on the saw again and get the caps completed. Ill update .

Oh if you were going to seal the base gasket and transfers (assuming I remove the cyl) what product would you use, I know this is a loaded question. Walt likes the Threebond 1184 and Id like to try, but its not an option for me, not available local and amazon will take 2 wks. I do have some Loctite 518 on the shelf and know some guys have issues with it not sealing saws. Motoseal, Yamabond, Hondabond and Dirko available local and would prefer one of them..
 
Well I finally got my plugs done and did a pressure vac test.

How much is too much leakage out the base? I'm losing about 1psi every 2 min. Losing 1inhg every 2 min. I haven't pulled the flywheel or clutch yet but I soaked the area and no bubbles. Small leak out the decompression as well but I dont have a plug for it.

Should I just do the base gasket? I'd probably reseal the transfers at the same time.
 

Attachments

  • 20220414_121932.jpg
    20220414_121932.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 3
How much is too much leakage out the base? I'm losing about 1psi every 2 min. Losing 1inhg every 2 min.
If you go by most Husky workshop manuals you're allowed around twice that over half the time.
On a side note, if the decomp is leaking either pulling on it or putting a little grease in-between the sealing surfaces can help give you a seal temporarily
 
If you go by most Husky workshop manuals you're allowed around twice that over half the time.
On a side note, if the decomp is leaking either pulling on it or putting a little grease in-between the sealing surfaces can help give you a seal temporarily
I guess that's my concern. I've seen huskys recommendation but I've also seen people say that any leak is too much.I don't remember who exactly, think it might have been Walt? But I'm sure it was someone well known to the community. Who's opinion do you believe?
 
If you go by most Husky workshop manuals you're allowed around twice that over half the time.
On a side note, if the decomp is leaking either pulling on it or putting a little grease in-between the sealing surfaces can help give you a seal temporarily
I guess that's my concern. I've seen huskys recommendation but I've also seen people say that any leak is too much.I don't remember who exactly, think it might have been Walt? But I'm sure it was someone well known to the community. Who's opinion do you believe?
 
Sounds lean?

I don't like to see any bubbles or leakage. Use oatey leak detector, it shows tiny leaks.
Stihl manual allows no drop over a few minutes.

Threebond 1211 good to go after an hour or so.

I have had to use a very very thin coating on both sides of oem base gaskets to have zero bubbles.
Last Husky I worked on had a small leak on the ignition side crank seal.

I also wonder how much of a leak is required to actually pull air in and affect the mixture.
 
I guess that's my concern. I've seen huskys recommendation but I've also seen people say that any leak is too much.I don't remember who exactly, think it might have been Walt? But I'm sure it was someone well known to the community. Who's opinion do you believe?
Less is better & none is best.
That said, if it's within Husqvarna's specified limits then it shouldn't (in theory) cause a significant issue.
I have had success in the past using vacuum to draw loctite into a small case leak. Your mileage may vary & I can't attest to the longevity of this repair
 
I'm just going to throw a new base gasket in and hit it with some motoseal. Cheap insurance.

Side note cylinder and piston look mint. I guess Dominator is better than people think lol.
Ring locating pin seems firmly attached which is good to see.

And whats up with the bracket that holds the carb boot on? Mines warped I think (see second pic)20220417_151014.jpg20220417_152659.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20220417_152659.jpg
    20220417_152659.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 3
I still have the dying off idle when warm! Saw will sit and idle fine. Starts in 1-3 pulls when cold. Starts in 1 pull after it dies with no fast idle or choke required. Ive done a field reset as well.

I dont know if anyone is still following this but so far Ive:
  1. Resealed the base gasket. No leakdown at all now.
  2. Pressure checked cyl and intake. No leaks. No leaks at transfers either. I did not remove and re-seal the transfers because they appeared to be well sealed already
  3. Checked crank seals with bubbles. No leaks, press or vac
  4. Checked fuel lines. No leaks to carb
  5. Submerged carb. Will hold 8psi through fuel inlet with no leakage.
  6. Cleaned metering side of carb. Was clean before I started.
  7. Adjusted Pop Off from off the scale, 35(?)ish psi down to 22 psi
  8. Adjusted metering lever to flush with carb bottom
  9. Adjusted coil gap to 0.009
  10. Muff Mod and Top cover vent mod
The only things I could do now are to check the screen in the bottom of the carb. Do a firmware update. Upgrade carb and coil $300+? I couldnt find anything on adjusting the Hall Effect sensor, any more info on this will help a bunch.

What am I missing? The thing runs so solid after you get off idle. Ugg. Me and this saw have a love hate relationship.

I could try stripping it down to just the cylinder and crankcase /fueltank assby and plunging it into a bucket to show any leaks???? I really dont know.
 
Heck, maybe toss a fuel filter at it just because. Sometimes it's the really simple stuff. If the saw doesn't lose any pressure/vacuum then there won't be any leaks, bucket of water or no bucket of water. Also, have you checked and made sure the metering lever is supposed to be flush with the carb bottom? Some carbs want them set to a certain depth.
 
Put a new throttle valve in it but be very careful installing and removing it is a challenge and takes time and wiggling my el46 runs great after I has a different hole cut in the valve but make sure it opens and seals closed
523077201

I ordered mine from jack’s
 
Back
Top