576xp project saw, with photos

Chiknhawk

Chiknhawk

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A notched screwdriver or one of those cheap Lisle seal pullers ground down works just fine. Pull the seal and take a gander at the bearing. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.
Exactly

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Chiknhawk

Chiknhawk

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Have you pulled any of these seals without changing the entire bearing? Since the seal is available separately.

I don't think there is any metal debris, it is probably just old. The top end or bottom end did not shed any metal. I would like to at least pull it first and then I can also see if the plastic bearing cage is ok.

I don't have a dial indicator but I can't feel any play either direction. It feels tight. What kind of numbers do you usually see so I understand magnitude?
I have a set of kar seal spoons that are great there little and work amazing I have gotten seals out with no damage at all but oz post is how I did it for years the amount of run out is thousandths

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Chiknhawk

Chiknhawk

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Dont get all caught up in the press or heat which one is best which one is better and not they both work they both produce the same results with the same outcome it all depends on which way u see fit and is comfortable with period

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Chiknhawk

Chiknhawk

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Dont get all caught up in the press or heat which one is best which one is better and not they both work they both produce the same results with the same outcome it all depends on which way u see fit and is comfortable with period

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Do make sure the crank/rod is closed to center of counter bore in cases for cylinder

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mbrick

mbrick

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Ok, I was able to remove the seal. The lip doesn't look awful but I will compare it to a new one.

The bearing looks ok to an untrained eye. Are you just looking to see if the plastic (nylon?) cage is still in one piece or has any cracks?

Chiknhawk, FYI you can edit posts to add more info after you reply.

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mbrick

mbrick

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Nice balls! If there's no play, I'd just replace the seal and rock on... after another vacuum test of course.
Thanks for the feedback. No crank play that I can feel in either direction.

Will make an aluminum seal driver while waiting for parts.

I don't really like that the seal is pressing against the bearing and not the case. That means I will be hammering the bearing away from the case to drive the seal in... but I'll give it a shot.
 
Chiknhawk

Chiknhawk

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That bearing looks great pop seals an re vacuumed test I think your golden the amount of pressure to install seal wont effect bearing at all

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Chiknhawk

Chiknhawk

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If you muff mod it got the inside baffle out completely I use a long shank carbide that is a solid meaning carbide is cut into shaft has no cone or ball on end and cut out baffle all around drill hole in bottom right like in my pic.it makes cutting baffle out in that corner easy the shape of the muffler makes this approach the best for reverb gasses and escape you want to hear the pop but it not sound like a leak that is best so it actually sends back gasses best the square muff can I also build custom mufflers shaped in a octagonal shape with a length of center section that get great reviews from my cookie cutter crowd

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mbrick

mbrick

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I do want to muffler mod it but it would need to be on the side with a 281 outlet so I don't light a log on fire. Or just open up another hole under the current screen...
I haven't figured out yet to remove the carb limiter caps so I don't want to mod it without being able to richen it.
 
mbrick

mbrick

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I received new parts and installed the clutch side crank seal with a seal driver. Holds 15 inHg for 15 minutes, great. Rebuild carb with new Zama RB-130 kit. Finished reassembly.

Saw sounds a bit "odd" to me. Has a kind of a whirring sound at rpm. But I've never run a saw without a bar and chain and this is the first 70+cc saw I have worked on.
Does this sound normal? The tapping at idle is the spike onto the floor until I tilt it up.
Is the idle normally this lumpy on this size saw?

 
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