NorthernMaverick
ArboristSite Member
I'm thinking the same thing. 30 face cords isn't much to heat a large house. 30 pulp cord would have me looking for a different heating solution.
60 cc saws
- Thread starter Huskybill
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Huskybill
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Upgrading the windows to double pane glass helps. One year total oil bill was $500. That’s for mainly hot water for the year. My next plan is to install a better oil heating system. We used wood for heat only. The new place is farther north, colder too. I’m really saving burning wood now. My oil bill is under $1000 a year. I hear horror stories of $3,000 a year from others. Even if I had to purchase wood at $400/2 cords it’s worth the savings.
I heat solely with wood, nothing else in the house. Fact is if I had to pay for it, I'd be better off with oil or gas. We don't typically get super cold here in PA, but even so I'm going through 6 to 10 cord a year. Last winter was fairly mild so we didn't burn a full 10 cord. Now shoulder season I try to stick to soft wood mainly before switching over to hard wood. Normally can get buy with a small fire in the evening if it's hitting 50 over night. So there a lot of wood that goes up in smoke fairly quickly. A full load of oak or better hard wood will go 10 to 12 hours before a reload. Neither of my brothers or my parents go over $1k a year for oil, and their furnaces heat their water as well so it's getting run year round. Can't get a full 10 cord for that money, especially if it's seasoned split and dropped off.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice having the oil heat for backup. That freak blizzard one year in October the power was out for a week and a half, trees down all over because the leaves and snow weight broke them. My Hobart 4,000 watt gas welder ran the house and my 3,500 watt generator ran my Keurig coffee maker. The wood heated the house. Lucky I had backup. I used my preppier survival food.
Oil heat 62 degrees in the house
Wood heat 72 degrees in the house
Oil heat 62 degrees in the house
Wood heat 72 degrees in the house
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here’s the temp gauges I use, same heat longer burn time.
One on the stove, on one the stove pipe, I put a damper on the stove pipe with the gauge on the chimney side. You control the output heat of the stove and how much heat goes up the pipe. You burn less wood, still get good heat. Don’t just throw wood and waste it into the black hole.
https://www.amazon.com/wood-stove-thermometer/s?k=wood+stove+thermometer
One on the stove, on one the stove pipe, I put a damper on the stove pipe with the gauge on the chimney side. You control the output heat of the stove and how much heat goes up the pipe. You burn less wood, still get good heat. Don’t just throw wood and waste it into the black hole.
https://www.amazon.com/wood-stove-thermometer/s?k=wood+stove+thermometer
Absolutely not.
I did that for 20 some years. I worked shift work where I had 15 days off a month. Everyday I was off I tried to haul, split, stack two utility trailers full of wood from spring break up through the snow getting too deep to get into the woods. Luckily I had a 900 acre Woodlore of public ground with an nearly unlimited supply of standing dead and windblown read oak.
I’d cut some more teeth off it first and then really speed it up like maybe with a 10 or 12 pin. Imagine how fast it would cut with only 1 tooth on it
Yeah F that.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Seriously I’m looking for the best performance I can get from a 60 cc saw.I’d cut some more teeth off it first and then really speed it up like maybe with a 10 or 12 pin. Imagine how fast it would cut with only 1 tooth on it
My Husqvarna 240 sg(70’s) with a 8 tooth rim with 66 dL of 325” LG 16” bar did just fine over the orginal setup at the time.
If I was limbing under 6-8” with it, I might use .325 full comp chisel just to try it out and for the smoothness. But for bigger stuff I’d use 3/8 full comp chisel. If it was dirty I would use 3/8 full comp semi chisel. Bigger sprockets will speed the chain up if you’re just limbing or if you have a bigger powerhead with a smaller bar. As far as skip vs comp, the cutters do the work. Sure it’s quicker to sharpen skip, but it also gets dull quicker because there are only 2/3 of the cutters doing the work.
Skip chain will always cut slower in a shorter bar.
Run 3/8" and forget about it. I'm not even convinced that .325 even runs faster in a ported 50cc saw than 3/8".
Run 3/8" and forget about it. I'm not even convinced that .325 even runs faster in a ported 50cc saw than 3/8".
And if you really want to slice and dice firewood go with a 395 and a 16" bar and aggressive grind on full comp chain.
Ive timed my 50cc non ported muffler modded saws with 16 in bars in 3/8 and 325. 3/8 cut faster in hard and softwood. 3/8 is easier and quicker to sharpen and seems to stay sharp longer. The only thing I like about 325 is it's less grabby for small limbs. I keep .325 on my fence row and dedicated limbing, small wood saw.
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Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I ran a 2100 in the past with 16”/18” bars.
That was my feeling as well although I couldn't say for certain as I never did a direct comparison.
BradSt
ArboristSite Operative
Absolutely
I can't figure out the desire to use skip chain for general purpose cutting. It's meant to be used in big wood, with big bars. A 60cc saw with an 18-20" bar doesn't need skip chain. I'd run non skip 3/8" semi or full chisel, with a 7 pin sprocket. I only run an 8 pin on my 90cc saw, when I'm using a small bar...and that's very rare. You negate the gains of a larger sprocket, if the powerhead can't hold the RPMs up. You just end up with 7 pin chain speed and extra wear on the clutch. And I'm speaking to modern saws. Some of the older, low RPM powerheads may do better with an 8 pin.
I like .325 chain, but only on 45-55cc powerheads. For me, it snags less when cutting smaller wood, and seems to stall the clutch less frequently, when used with smaller engines.
Canyon Angler
Addicted to ArboristSite
Imagine how fast it would cut with only 1 tooth on it
Husqvarna used 20" bars and 3/8" on some of the later 55 Rancher series saws. They were just OK with that deal, and didn't run it with good authority although there were and are still a lot of them set up like cutting firewood and heating homes.
I have two closed port 55's here and have found 18" .325" the best overall choice for them. They cut really fast and the see a lot of use here until I get into decent size wood then the larger saws come out.
We cut so much wood here it is done mostly with planned outings. The old geezers like me run the saws, and the young guys load the trailers. I don't enjoy this as much as I used to so don't want to mess around. I'll take no less than 5 saws on any outing, fueled, tuned, razor sharp and ready to cut. These days as I'm well past 60 now I find myself reaching for the smaller/lighter fast cutting saws more and more.
I don't fuel or sharpen in the field these days. When a saw runs empty or gets dull it gets put aside and I grab another one. By the time you've went thru half a dozen saws you're pretty much DONE anyhow.
We start cutting in September and will do half a dozen outings over the colder months. I don't typically cut in the summer unless we have a storm and blow-downs that need moved out of the way. Sometimes folks give us trees that went down so that makes up the rest of the wood required to get us thru the Winter........
I have two closed port 55's here and have found 18" .325" the best overall choice for them. They cut really fast and the see a lot of use here until I get into decent size wood then the larger saws come out.
We cut so much wood here it is done mostly with planned outings. The old geezers like me run the saws, and the young guys load the trailers. I don't enjoy this as much as I used to so don't want to mess around. I'll take no less than 5 saws on any outing, fueled, tuned, razor sharp and ready to cut. These days as I'm well past 60 now I find myself reaching for the smaller/lighter fast cutting saws more and more.
I don't fuel or sharpen in the field these days. When a saw runs empty or gets dull it gets put aside and I grab another one. By the time you've went thru half a dozen saws you're pretty much DONE anyhow.
We start cutting in September and will do half a dozen outings over the colder months. I don't typically cut in the summer unless we have a storm and blow-downs that need moved out of the way. Sometimes folks give us trees that went down so that makes up the rest of the wood required to get us thru the Winter........
