A few bar questions

[Stihl a grasshopper]

The background information is that I bought my first saw (Stihl ms361/25”) back in 2008, I was tired of every time someone wanted me to cut a tree they either only had a saw with like a 12” bar, or it was electric and they had no power. My knowledge base at the time was: mix the oil right/sharpen chains when they get dull. In case anyone is curious I use a harbor freight chain sharpener and just grind to the factory chain angle. My main use is homeowner/storm cleanup/any time I can find a reason to use.

I just learned a few weeks ago that the sprocket is a replacement item. It’s not too bad is it?




A while back I thought my bar was pretty well worn, because I didn’t know at the time 3/8 chain came in different gauges. I tried looking up my bar because the information is worn off the side, and the 25” yellow dot rollomatic ES is offered in 50 and 63 gauge. Sorry to mix measurements, but if the bar is running 1.7-1.8 ish mm is it more likely that it’s the 63 (1.6mm) and I just never knew I needed to look for or ask for that gauge? Here is a picture of the only numbers I can find on the bar but I couldn’t find anything from them. Also, at least now, that bar only comes with a 11 or 12 tooth tip and mine has 13.



If this bar is a 63 gauge should I just toss the last two 50 chains I have that are at 50% life, and get new 63 chains and a new sprocket now?



There is some damage to the tip, same on both sides, and top/bottom since I flipped the bar pretty regularly, what would cause this? I would like to try and prevent this in the future.

 

[IthacaMan]

I would throw that bar, rim sprocket, and chain away and get new ones. They do wear out. Your clutch drum looks ok. I run a 20'' 3/8 .050 on my 036 that is similar to your 361

 

[HarleyT]

Look very closely at the area ahead of the slot. The bar info is usually etched into the metal, and holding it in the right light angle, you can read the info.

 

[HarleyT]

Oddly, there are a few guys here would think that sprocket is fine.

Not me of course...

 

[pioneerguy600]

The background information is that I bought my first saw (Stihl ms361/25”) back in 2008, I was tired of every time someone wanted me to cut a tree they either only had a saw with like a 12” bar, or it was electric and they had no power. My knowledge base at the time was: mix the oil right/sharpen chains when they get dull. In case anyone is curious I use a harbor freight chain sharpener and just grind to the factory chain angle. My main use is homeowner/storm cleanup/any time I can find a reason to use.

I just learned a few weeks ago that the sprocket is a replacement item. It’s not too bad is it?

View attachment 951292
View attachment 951294

A while back I thought my bar was pretty well worn, because I didn’t know at the time 3/8 chain came in different gauges. I tried looking up my bar because the information is worn off the side, and the 25” yellow dot rollomatic ES is offered in 50 and 63 gauge. Sorry to mix measurements, but if the bar is running 1.7-1.8 ish mm is it more likely that it’s the 63 (1.6mm) and I just never knew I needed to look for or ask for that gauge? Here is a picture of the only numbers I can find on the bar but I couldn’t find anything from them. Also, at least now, that bar only comes with a 11 or 12 tooth tip and mine has 13.

View attachment 951295

If this bar is a 63 gauge should I just toss the last two 50 chains I have that are at 50% life, and get new 63 chains and a new sprocket now?



There is some damage to the tip, same on both sides, and top/bottom since I flipped the bar pretty regularly, what would cause this? I would like to try and prevent this in the future.
View attachment 951296

The damage to the bar tip is thought to be caused from the chain being too loose, when the chain will hammer the bar rails as it revolves under high speed in or out of the cut the hammering will chip the bar rails especially near the bar tip.

 

[Backstage]

When changing a sprocket that badly worn, the bar and chain are both guilty until proven innocent. Assume that the bar and chain are damaged.

You can change the “worn part”, not notice that the chain drive links are damaged, then mess up a brand new bar, or assume you’ve got a defective/mislabeled new bar because the chain you “only ran once” won’t slide freely...

 

[pioneerguy600]

Look very closely at the area ahead of the slot. The bar info is usually etched into the metal, and holding it in the right light angle, you can read the info.

Like Harley said, look for this info in the sort of boxed in area just to the front of the bar mount slot, it is actually etched into the steel under the paint,

 

[Stihl a grasshopper]

Look very closely at the area ahead of the slot. The bar info is usually etched into the metal, and holding it in the right light angle, you can read the info.

I did see where the info had been on the paint, but most of it is missing there. I’ll clean it real well and take a closer look when we get back home from visiting family.

 

[HarleyT]

Here is an old junk bar, at the right angle you can read it.

 

[Stihl a grasshopper]

The damage to the bar tip is thought to be caused from the chain being too loose, when the chain will hammer the bar rails as it revolves under high speed in or out of the cut the hammering will chip the bar rails especially near the bar tip.

I thought that might be the case. The last several chains when new would stretch rapidly, I guess due to the worn drive sprocket.

 

[Stihl a grasshopper]

Here is an old junk bar, at the right angle you can read it.
View attachment 951316

I think I would have seen something that defined, because I was looking to see if I could still make something out of what was still painted there.

 

[Backstage]

Yeah some bars are just painted or not even marked. You can measure the slot width with a digital caliper to find gauge.

 

[Stihl a grasshopper]

Yeah some bars are just painted or not even marked. You can measure the slot width with a digital caliper to find gauge.

Found a picture I took, these are the only markings left that I could find. I only have a standard metric caliper, not a digital. It was reading about 1.7 to 1.8 mm measured at 8 points around the bar

 

[pioneerguy600]

I thought that might be the case. The last several chains when new would stretch rapidly, I guess due to the worn drive sprocket.

The most stretch to chain length comes from the wear around the rivets which I chalk up to oil delivery problems for the most part but there is some wear to the drive links from bad sprockets or rims that can contribute to the chain needing tightening /re tensioning often. All components of a chain wears from use so we have to be alert to it, I often readjust a new chain, every second tank of fuel on some saws until the chain stops sagging low on the underside of the bar, if I see 1/4" of the lowest drive link I stop and tighten it.

 

[pioneerguy600]

View attachment 951338
Found a picture I took, these are the only markings left that I could find. I only have a standard metric caliper, not a digital. It was reading about 1.7 to 1.8 mm measured at 8 points around the bar

That is very faint, maybe a little fine sandpaper lightly brushed over the area would bring out the outline of the rest of the print, worth a try. If not then only the physical measurements are left for us to find.

 

[irhunter]

To the OP:
I agree with the notion you've probably been running your chain too loose...thus, the bar damage.

I suspect you have not been dressing the bar. At the end of each day of cutting I check the rails for roll-over wear which creates a "wire edge."

http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_bar_maint.htm
Is your saw pumping out the full tank of oil for each tank of gas?

While I have run Stihl bars with the numbers totally gone...all those bars didn't have a speck of paint left. I bet, you will eventually be able to find the numbers etched on your bar.

If it was my saw, I would dress the bar and just run it, as is (assuming you find the bar is .050 to match your current chains).

You bought a really nice saw. Upping your bar maintenance, and watching chain tension, would be good things.

Roy

 

[Bearcreek]

What I can see of that bar looks pretty rough. If it's the same age as that sprocket, it's probably toast, or close to it. If you want to use the chains you have, just buy a new sprocket and bar to fit them.

 

[cookies]

that bar can have the tip replaced, do that and get the rails dressed

 

[dboyd351]

A dime is .050, a penny is .058 and quarter is a little over .063 (about .068)
Who says Uncle Sam never did anything for you?

 

[Pioneer]

Throw away your sprocket and your bar, the tip is too far gone. Go and buy a new sprocket, bar and chain. Save your used chains to use later after your new sprocket has worn an appropriate amount to match the wear on them.