Altec DC1217 Perkins diesel - fuel line routing

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Patrick1903

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Hi all, I recently acquired a 2007 Altec DC1217 with a rebuilt Perkins in it. I believe it’s the 4.236, which I’m not sure is the original Perkins engine that Altec uses.

In any case, the way the fuel lines were routed when the rebuilt engine was put in, they run directly from the fuel tank to the engine (left hand side). The door panel was not on the machine. The right side panel is on. I can’t put the left side on b/c of the fuel lines. I will have to cut a hole in the back wall of engine compartment, or notch out the panel on the right hand edge, or enlarged the thru hole where the throttle cable comes through the firewall. Does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to do this?

I also need to get spring clips for the engine panel. There’s some other type of connection system they used, but the other part of it is no longer there. Hard to believe the clips are $33 each in RL Supply. I’m looking around for other latch options if there are any ideas on that too!

First 2 pics. Fuel lines/tank. I’ll need new/longer lines of course.
Next pic, door panel for fuel tank side.

Last pic, right side door panel installed with expensive spring latches.

Thanks
Patrick
 

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I suppose you could. It seemed like a longer run plus I didn’t want them toward the bottom in order to protect them while towing.
 
Is there a gap in your panel like in this picture? I'd either run the lines through this gap or under the frame as suggested.img.jpeg Cutting into the panel could make for spots for the line to Chaffe on not to mention making the panel more difficult to remove/install.
 
Is there a gap in your panel like in this picture? I'd either run the lines through this gap or under the frame as suggested.
There is a square inspection/access panel in the door but I don’t want to run through the panel since it will make removing the panel difficult (ie have to remove fuel lines). I’ll explore sneaking underneath and see what that looks like.
 
I was referring to the gap between the bottom of the panel and the frame. You could easily run your lines through that gap (above the frame), assuming your panel is the same which it may not be.
 
I was referring to the gap between the bottom of the panel and the frame. You could easily run your lines through that gap (above the frame), assuming your panel is the same which it may not be.
No gaps in mine. The ears/tabs in the bottom of the panel insert into the I beam that supports the engine. I could go under the I beam, then back up. Was probably thinking of doing a more direct and less “loopy” arrangement.
see the beam below, with the slots in it for the tabs on the panel.
 

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No gaps in mine. The ears/tabs in the bottom of the panel insert into the I beam that supports the engine. I could go under the I beam, then back up. Was probably thinking of doing a more direct and less “loopy” arrangement.
see the beam below, with the slots in it for the tabs on the panel.
Notch the panel end with a rounded off slot. Then use a through wall rubber grommet and that will keep chafing to minimum without going under, around or through the panel. Look at the ignition wires on a Stihl MS series chainsaw and copy the case area where they pass by the flywheel and go out the case then into the tank handle. Make a notched hole like that and your done. Some are right on the open edge of the case under the starter. Some go down inside like a 200T does.
 
Hi all, I recently acquired a 2007 Altec DC1217 with a rebuilt Perkins in it. I believe it’s the 4.236, which I’m not sure is the original Perkins engine that Altec uses.

In any case, the way the fuel lines were routed when the rebuilt engine was put in, they run directly from the fuel tank to the engine (left hand side). The door panel was not on the machine. The right side panel is on. I can’t put the left side on b/c of the fuel lines. I will have to cut a hole in the back wall of engine compartment, or notch out the panel on the right hand edge, or enlarged the thru hole where the throttle cable comes through the firewall. Does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to do this?

I also need to get spring clips for the engine panel. There’s some other type of connection system they used, but the other part of it is no longer there. Hard to believe the clips are $33 each in RL Supply. I’m looking around for other latch options if there are any ideas on that too!

First 2 pics. Fuel lines/tank. I’ll need new/longer lines of course.
Next pic, door panel for fuel tank side.

Last pic, right side door panel installed with expensive spring latches.

Thanks
Patrick
Jeep rubber hood latch system is about as simple as it gets. JC Whiney used to sell them cheap. I'd bet the web sells them by the bags full.

See if you can find an after market A/c system rubber hose protector that goes on the firewall of a car setup. That might be easier than two grommets. They are usually an oval slot or oval hole setup with a two in one grommet. Heater hose pass through is another old two in one hose protector.
 
No gaps in mine. The ears/tabs in the bottom of the panel insert into the I beam that supports the engine. I could go under the I beam, then back up. Was probably thinking of doing a more direct and less “loopy” arrangement.
see the beam below, with the slots in it for the tabs on the panel.
Do you have a service manual? If not you'll need one eventually I'd make it a point to get one. That would also show you the original orientation of the lines. It's your equipment obviously you can run them anyway you choose, but it is clear they did not run through that panel, no reason to cut it up IMO. Good luck, post up whatever you end up doing, that looks like a nice machine. Those 4.236 engines are good runners.
 
Do you have a service manual? If not you'll need one eventually I'd make it a point to get one. That would also show you the original orientation of the lines. It's your equipment obviously you can run them anyway you choose, but it is clear they did not run through that panel, no reason to cut it up IMO. Good luck, post up whatever you end up doing.
I have the service manual for the machine, but it’s not specific to the engine. It seems like there are lots of variations on the chippers based on the engine, and the manual is generic to a degree. I think those are true statements!

I registered the machine with Altec when I bought it, and they sent me the machine manual (somewhat generic based on various engines) and the parts diagrams, which didn’t seem to help for this.

I should also call the Altec tech support and ask if there’s a way to see how those lines were run for the Perkins engine.
 
I can relate to having service manuals minus the engine. Been there done that, should have known better.
I don't know what the alternatives were powertrian wise but that 4.236 is a fine engine. From the pics you shared it looks like it was done professionally. Should provide you many good years of service.
 
Should provide you many good years of service.
I sure hope so. After paint all zerk fittings were painted over. I don’t think it was run much at all after the engine was put it and it was painted. So after buying I want to get this thing is good mechanical condition. Next step is to grease slide box for the upper roller. I can’t get the tensioner eye bolts/nuts off right now, prior to jacking up slide box. May end up cutting the nuts to get springs off. Want to get the rails greased really well. Lots of cats in dogs to get ironed out!
 
Does anyone know what the other half of this latching system is and where I could find it? Since it has this “catch” in the center of the panel, maybe I just try to mount the strap the goes into it instead of making it match the other side. The Altec parts guy told me it likely was on a ford or Duetz-Allis machine.

0ED8EBE6-C39C-46F8-AE90-411C374DAC23.jpeg
 
Ok, I think I just answered my own question about the latch, with a re-reading of @JRM post above regarding rubber heel latches. I searched on keep latches and mostly came up with other latches, metal, plastic. Some that could work. But the rubber latches brought me to NAPA then to Amazon, something like this. I think I’ll try this route and see if the one latch is enough. It also depends on if/how I can mount the rubber piece. 1663731021709.png1663731021709.png
 
Finally got this part and hoping to install in the next few days. I was going to try to reuse the catch for the rubber mount, in other words, attaching the rubber strap above the panel, and latching below onto the catch. Now I’m thinking - should I do it the other way? Connect the rubber strap to the panel and pull it up into the catch mounted above?

The panel, when sitting in the opening, with the bottom tabs inserted into the slots in the frame, will fall out from the top left tab not being tight against the top left of frame. I shimmed it up from the bottom with a piece of rubber tubing to push up the left side. Now bottom tabs and top tabs are engaged in slots. All that to say, is it better to pull the panel up from below and have it in the catch above, or use the catch to apply the upward pull from the panel to the mounted strap above?
 
Why couldn't run them down underneath when back up into engine compartment
That is immediately what I thought. Get a stainless steel hard line, or one of copper, or steel, and flare the ends to make a good seal for the hose connections. Secure the hard lines to the frame where they pass under the structure at the bottom of the door and they will never contact anything while towing. This seems like a very straightforward project. Good luck.
 
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