I have an 036 that starts and idles for 20 seconds then dies. The back story is it would not hold a tune. I was always messing with the high speed adjuster. I pressure tested it and the flywheel side seal was leaking. I split the case and installed new oem seals and bearings. I installed a new NWP piston and cylinder too. I pressure and vacuum tested it before reassembling the saw. So far I have replaced the spark plug and tried a known good coil. The impulse line is new with zip ties for insurance. The fuel line and filter are new. It has an AM carburetor on it. It even has a new air filter. And the intake boot has been tested too. What am I missing?
Another 036 thread.
- Thread starter jscb1bb1b
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Get a OEM carb.
You should have kept the OEM carb and cylinder.
Was the OEM carb fubar? Try putting that back on if it's not beat to ****.
Was the OEM carb fubar? Try putting that back on if it's not beat to ****.
Why did you change the p/c and carb?
Can you upload some pics of the oem p&c? I recommend you cleaning that oem carb out and re-using it.
What is the history of the saw? How did you get it? Has it ever ran well since you owned it?
Edit:
If possible upload a short video of it running here, it’s so helpful for us to try and help diagnose it.
What is the history of the saw? How did you get it? Has it ever ran well since you owned it?
Edit:
If possible upload a short video of it running here, it’s so helpful for us to try and help diagnose it.
Light scoring can be cleaned up and a new piston installed, rather than Chi-Com stuff that won't last as long or run as well.
What was the problem with the original carb? I have two 036 and the carbs never needed more than a diaphragm/gasket kit (once each).
Check the ports in the carburetor bore. I use a tag wire to verify they are open. It has cured most of the carbs I tried it on. But I would try it on the original equipment carb first.
Increase the idle speed to the point where the chain runs and set the L screw another 1/2 turn rich, this might get the engine to run long enough to allow you to work the idle adjustments to a correct setting.
I've had the saw 20 years. It was straight gassed when I got it. The OEM cylinder and piston were trashed. I installed a NWP piston and cylinder and the saw ran fine. The saw started running bad a couple of years ago. A new ms361 came along so the 036 got kicked to the back of the to do list. I will clean up the OEM carb and see what happens.
Still have the OEM P/C? You'd be surprised what cleans up.
If it's been sitting years do another pres/vac test, carb/fuel line too. If that passes check fuel filter, screen in carb.
Also, neglected saws will build up sawdust under the carb diaphragm cover. If enough gets in there the carb can't pump gas. Very easy to check, pull cover, and I've seen it on both 036 and 038
I tried it again and it would start and run for 15ish seconds and die. I cleaned up the OEM carb and it would start and run for 15ish seconds. I took the parts out of the AM carb and installed them into the OEM carb. It starts and runs good. The muffler has been opened up. I set WOT at 13000rpms. Thank you to all who replied.
cheesemaker
New Member
I'm pretty sure I messed up when I rebuilt the carb in my 036. There is a little concave, tear-drop-shaped piece of tin that is parked in a shaped recess over some tiny passages in the carb body--it looked like it was hammered into place and glued in. There was a replacement for that piece of tin, so I mauled the old one getting it out and set the new one in place. The saw wouldn't start, so I took the carb apart again and found the new piece of tin floating around and out of place. I took a brass rod and sort of crushed the new one down in the recess. Now the saw runs, but not well and the L screw doesn't really control the low speed operation. Can anyone tell me what that little tear-drop thing is and suggest what I should do to make it right.
It’s called a welch plug. It needs to be installed correctly (punched flat) ideally with a little nail varnish. Don’t try and reuse it. Get another.
To add to that, the Welch plug usually covers the tiny idle & transfer jets into the venturi. As they can be a PITA to seal, it's not usually a good idea to remove one unless you have done everything else & still have a problem
cheesemaker
New Member
I see that I asked the same question in two different posts. Sorry about that. Thanks for the answers and the patience.
