Another Small Saw/Aging Advice Thread

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They are a plastic, way overpriced pos with a fragile throttle linkage/choke interlock, a poor airfilter, and a nearly non-existent antivibe "system".

somehow they run pretty good and handle nicely while buzzing annoyingly away.

I would buy one used. Cheap. Or not at all.

apples and oranges to the makita in question here.
 
What happened to 10 pounds ready to cut? Makita 4300 I believe is 10.8 + 16 fluid ounces of gasoline + bar oil + bar + chain.

No chain catcher besides the plastic clutch cover attachment arm. You said pro in post 1
I handled a HD rental saw and I liked the feel of it. No light pro saws out there except the 543xp.
 
I like running a Pro Mac 10-10 around the house and occasionally dropping small trees, and really all of the saws mentioned here are disposable plastic parts compared to the mag work horses that will be here long after the purse swings.
 
I like running a Pro Mac 10-10 around the house and occasionally dropping small trees, and really all of the saws mentioned here are disposable plastic parts compared to the mag work horses that will be here long after the purse swings.
The EA4300 is a magnesium split case pro design. And there is nothing wrong with plastic on a saw either, Stihl
use a ballistic grade in theirs, and some people even managed to make a gun from some plastic too.
The throw away models should be outlawed, why make a saw, and have to make it again next year, and again next year,
that is not sustainable or good for the planet, but its more money for the manufacturers, save it by producing crap, and
make it when the crap breaks and its too costly to fix, so buy another, and repeat, and then they pretend to be doing something
good for the planet, if they want to do that make the things to last,
 
The EA4300 is a magnesium split case pro design. And there is nothing wrong with plastic on a saw either, Stihl
use a ballistic grade in theirs, and some people even managed to make a gun from some plastic too.
The throw away models should be outlawed, why make a saw, and have to make it again next year, and again next year,
that is not sustainable or good for the planet, but its more money for the manufacturers, save it by producing crap, and
make it when the crap breaks and its too costly to fix, so buy another, and repeat, and then they pretend to be doing something
good for the planet, if they want to do that make the things to last,
Is the EA4300 made in China do you know?
 
I read that Makita has a plant in China. The quality control should be the same no matter what country it's made.
 
Arrived today on the estimated date. I know it's heavier than the small Poulan but it sure doesn't feel like it. If I had a choice I would have ordered a 14" bar like the Poulan has. The EA4300 bar looked smaller than a 16" and it measures exactly 14" from the bucking spike. The high adjustment isn't sealed but it's a metal dowel with nothing on top. I think it's the kind that they break the top off after adjustment. A Dremel cutoff wheel will put a nice adjusting slot on it.

Is there such a thing as a 6 tooth rim sprocket for the 3/8 LP chain which is the number of teeth on the original spur. I can find 7 tooth rims for both 3/8 and .325. Maybe there is not enough meat left for a 6 tooth rim?

P7230031.JPG P7230030.JPG
 
Looks good.
The high screw may be a specialty fit like a 'pacman' or a D shape or something. I'd look more closely before you go slicing and dicing.
Tom.
Thanks! I need to remove the carb for any work so I'll be sure to check that out. I can't see the backside of the rod but I can see the top, and that surface is a solid perfect circle.
 
There is a faint circle close to the edge like third from last (Acircle). Could be a hole that was filled or pinned. Looks like screwdrivers aint good enough anymore.
Unless they changed recently its either a D or Double D carb screwdriver that fits the high, the low is a straight slot.
If you order a pack of carb screws make sure it has the D and Double D in it. And you don't need to take out the carb
to adjust it, there is a rubber cover that needs to be punctured before you can see the screw or adjust it on either the
H or L screw, I can't remember which one it is, so maybe your not seeing the screw head at all yet, I just punctured it
with the flat head screwdriver supplied with the saw, but mine is a Makita, Dolmar may indeed be different, though there
is really no reason for it to be.
EDIT, Just had a look, the H on mine looks absolutely round when viewing through the hole in the plastic casing, but its not,
you will only discover this when you try a D type carb screwdriver on it, rotate the screwdriver ever so slowly with very light pressure
on it, practically under its own weight and you will find it slips over the screw when it aligns with the faint flat spot on the side of the screw.
 
There is a faint circle close to the edge like third from last (Acircle). Could be a hole that was filled or pinned. Looks like screwdrivers aint good enough anymore.
That kit in post #78 has the correct screwdriver to adjust the H jet, can't remember if its the single or double D, but both are in the kit.
 
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