At my wits end with this saw. Please help.

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Cassix

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jul 21, 2020
Messages
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Location
Seattle, Wa
Hello, My name is Cassix and im new here and am having issues with my remington rm4620 and im hoping someone has some ideas that would help. I just purchased my saw about 4 days ago. The guy i bought it from said he only used it twice and it looked like it. I used it to cut down a tree yesterday and it ran great. He gave me an extra bottle of gas to use and i went through both of those and i went and bought some 40:1 premixed gas from trufuel, it wouldnt even start, not even close. So today i went to the gas station and got 1 gallon of unleaded gas. I also picked up some proselect synthetic 2 cycle engine oil and mixed 3.2 oz in with my gas. In my owners manual it as said to put some sta-bil fuel stabilizer in there so i got a small bottle of startron fuel treatment and put about 1 fluid oz in the gallon of gas and mixed it up. I emptied all the trufuel out and put in my mix. It took a minute to start. When it did start it was at full throttle with the chain spinning as fast as it would go. I went to turn the idle screw back to get it to idle and after turning it about 30 times it wasn't idling down at all. I shut it down and mixed a little trufuel in the tank and it went full blast and went it got a taste of that trufuel it idled down and died. I tried to adjust it again, but nothing. It ether full blast or nothing. It has a new spark plug and the filter is clean. I dont know what to do, ive tried everything, could someone please help me out? Thanks
 
Welcome to Arboristsite!
I googled some and looking at the pics I guess the saw is one of the Made in China series. The weakest components of these saws are all the rubber parts coming into contact with fuel/oil. Those tend to either develop cracks (air leaks) or simply melt away (collapse and/or soil the carburetor strainer). I would start checking there. Also, the fuel filters on some saws are very short-lived...
 
Ive looked at everything and everything seems to be intact. I looks like a new engine. Could it have anything to do with the fuel mixture and the high and low adjustments on the carb? I just dont understand. I ran perfect until the different gases
 
I think that you are assuming your erratic performance is directly linked to the fuels, but it is likely other
sources. There is likely a direct problem, like water in the fuel, combined with a bunch of playing with the carb adjustments, and things are totally out of whack.
For sanity's sake, just pour all of the gas you have into the lawn mower and start over.
Then get a gallon of fresh fuel, and get a new bottle of Stihl or whatever oil name brand.
No special Slick 50 whatever, with a twist of lime, or whatever. Just regular oil mix.

Then start at the begining, and try to correctly dial it in. If you cannot, then you have a problem that needs to be fixed. Find that problem and fix it.
Not getting lost wandering in the forest of oil mixes..... It does no one any good.
 
No matter what you are doing with funny fuels, a saw will not run at full speed unless the throttle is being held partly open. Make sure you understand the interaction between choke and throttle and throttle linkage. Turning the idle speed screw will have no affect if the throttle arm isn't actually in contact with the screw.
 
High idle is either functioning, and you don't understand it, or, it's malfunctioned, and you don't understand it. High idle is your problem.
And, now your idle screw is out of adjustment.
I think.
Thanks,
Nate
 
Seattle? There must be 1000s and 1000s of firewood cutters in the general area. Find one and ask for help. Rarely does anybody on this forum ever pinpoint the problem. I fix a lot of problem saws in my area sometimes simple and complex and sharpen chains for those new to chainsaws, no charge.
 
Yupp, the screw tip wasn't touching the lever any more. Too much air (leak) or too little fuel (clogged line/filter/carb/jet) or fast idle lock will do this...
 
I would take the air filter off and look down the carb throat to see if the butterfly valve is opening and closing fully as it should. It sounds like you have been playing with the high and low mixture. Do a google search and see what the standard turns out the mixture should be - about 2 turns out is a good starting point. Someone said check for inlet air leaks - good idea.
Also try spraying some starter fluid into the carb just to get it going and check that the plug is clean.
 
I havent touched the high/low screws at all. When my saw was running full blast i was trying to turn down the idle screw so it wasnt really 30 turns, it was alot though, maybe ten. Still, i know ten is too much. I have today off so im going to the gas station and starting over from scratch with new fuel and crack it open
 
That is another possibility - the trigger may need to get pulled briefly after starting to return to normal idle...
High idle lock, how would i check for that problem??
Seattle? There must be 1000s and 1000s of firewood cutters in the general area. Find one and ask for help. Rarely does anybody on this forum ever pinpoint the problem. I fix a lot of problem saws in my area sometimes simple and complex and sharpen chains for those new to chainsaws, no charge.
Im sure theres alot of people out here that would fix it but I dont like to rely on other people to fix my problems. I wnt to get in there nd lern what the problem is and fix it myself. That way i can learn something about small engines and if the problem ever comes up again, i know how to fix it. Bringing it to someone to have it fixed is the very last resort.
 

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