Auxiliary Oiler on Alaska mills

[Timgunner]

I picked up a used Alaska mill a couple years ago and used it once and it has been sitting since then because my only saw at the time was a Husky 346xp and it seemed too small for doing much with the mill. I have recently acquired a husky 3120 power head from a concrete saw. It appears to be identical to the 3120xp other than the air filter set up and there is no oil pump or oil tank. My goal is to run this power head as a dedicated milling saw. My mill will accommodate up to a 36” length of cut so I figured a 42” bar should let me get maximum cut with the extra tip and base that the mill uses.
My plan is to set up two auxiliary oilers one at the base of the bar right infront of the power head and then one at the tip of the bar. I’ve seen a couple different designs and the one that requires drilling through the bar and inserting a hollow bolt to supply oil to the track where the chain rides seems the better option.
What things should I keep in mind with this project?
Who makes the best Auxiliary oiler set up? Will gravity provide enough oil to keep from ruining bars and chains?

 

[B.Lee]

I have the Granberg on my large 96” bar and if the chain isn’t running it pours oil, so I’d say gravity provides enough. I would have to measure the size of the tubing. Seems like a lot of people make their own.

 

[B.Lee]

Looks like it’s 3/8” tubing with 1/4” inside diameter on the Granberg provided auxiliary oiler kit.

 

[Timgunner]

Thanks buddy!

 

[j-jock]

I picked up a used Alaska mill a couple years ago and used it once and it has been sitting since then because my only saw at the time was a Husky 346xp and it seemed too small for doing much with the mill. I have recently acquired a husky 3120 power head from a concrete saw. It appears to be identical to the 3120xp other than the air filter set up and there is no oil pump or oil tank. My goal is to run this power head as a dedicated milling saw. My mill will accommodate up to a 36” length of cut so I figured a 42” bar should let me get maximum cut with the extra tip and base that the mill uses.
My plan is to set up two auxiliary oilers one at the base of the bar right infront of the power head and then one at the tip of the bar. I’ve seen a couple different designs and the one that requires drilling through the bar and inserting a hollow bolt to supply oil to the track where the chain rides seems the better option.
What things should I keep in mind with this project?
Who makes the best Auxiliary oiler set up? Will gravity provide enough oil to keep from ruining bars and chains?

When I was doing all my Alaska milling, (i long ago replaced the Alaska mill with a bandsaw), I was using a 2100xp. I depended on the automatic oiler on the saw for all my oiling, (which I know you don't have), but instead of adding more oil, I made a nozzle to put a little water into the cutting surface. My theory was, that there was enough oil for lubrication, and the water would take care of the cooling. It worked great for me, and for some logs, I was using a dual powerhead setup, with 2100s on each end.
No matter what you decide, because even your oiling system is going to be external, I would look for an adjustable nozzle from an aquarium pump for both the oiling and for the water.

I used two different nozzles to spray the water. My first nozzle, was just a piece of 1/4 inch copper tube, with the end flattened to restrict the flow, and inserted into a neoprene supply hose, with the bottle mounted above the milling frame. Later, I changed to a variable volume needle taken from an aquarium air pump, which allowed me to add just the right amount of water. This worked great for me.

 

[Timgunner]

When I was doing all my Alaska milling, (i long ago replaced the Alaska mill with a bandsaw), I was using a 2100xp. I depended on the automatic oiler on the saw for all my oiling, (which I know you don't have), but instead of adding more oil, I made a nozzle to put a little water into the cutting surface. My theory was, that there was enough oil for lubrication, and the water would take care of the cooling. It worked great for me, and for some logs, I was using a dual powerhead setup, with 2100s on each end.
No matter what you decide, because even your oiling system is going to be external, I would look for an adjustable nozzle from an aquarium pump for both the oiling and for the water.

I used two different nozzles to spray the water. My first nozzle, was just a piece of 1/4 inch copper tube, with the end flattened to restrict the flow, and inserted into a neoprene supply hose, with the bottle mounted above the milling frame. Later, I changed to a variable volume needle taken from an aquarium air pump, which allowed me to add just the right amount of water. This worked great for me.

Thanks for the tip! I’ve heard complaints about the auxiliary oilers not having good control and that sounds like a good solution

 

[820wards]

I picked up a used Alaska mill a couple years ago and used it once and it has been sitting since then because my only saw at the time was a Husky 346xp and it seemed too small for doing much with the mill. I have recently acquired a husky 3120 power head from a concrete saw. It appears to be identical to the 3120xp other than the air filter set up and there is no oil pump or oil tank. My goal is to run this power head as a dedicated milling saw. My mill will accommodate up to a 36” length of cut so I figured a 42” bar should let me get maximum cut with the extra tip and base that the mill uses.
My plan is to set up two auxiliary oilers one at the base of the bar right infront of the power head and then one at the tip of the bar. I’ve seen a couple different designs and the one that requires drilling through the bar and inserting a hollow bolt to supply oil to the track where the chain rides seems the better option.
What things should I keep in mind with this project?
Who makes the best Auxiliary oiler set up? Will gravity provide enough oil to keep from ruining bars and chains?

You can build a simple nose oiler with a simple ball valve. Mount it to the vertical tube that you adjust your slab thickness to. I’ll get a picture of mine this weekend and post it.
j-

 

[BlackCoffin]

I ended up using an old tire valve stem setup and removed the little needle in the stem. This leaves a small orifice and seems to let the oil drip out instead of run out. Running a single ms880 and a 72” bar I definitely notice when it’s on. I figured worst case more oil is better than no oil.

 

[820wards]

You can build a simple nose oiler with a simple ball valve. Mount it to the vertical tube that you adjust your slab thickness to. I’ll get a picture of mine this weekend and post it.
j-

Here are a couple pictures of my mill with the nose oiler. When I start milling I crack the ball valve at the nose and the back of the mill. My motor does not have an internal oil pump. The nose tube on my mill has a fitting attached to the frame that seals with an O-Ring seals to a hole I’ve drilled in the bar where the chain passes by. Too much oil is not bad.
j-

 

[Bill G]

I see your still running the Wards. I like the air filter setup. That exhaust has got to be .nasty loud.

 

[820wards]

I see your still running the Wards. I like the air filter setup. That exhaust has got to be .nasty loud.

That motor works good using the big air filter. When I built the exhaust, I made it exhaust away from me so I’m not having exhaust blowing back in my face. The stock muffler that American Power uses blows it back at me. I do use real good hearing protection when operating the engine.
Now that the weather is cooling down out here, I have a few logs I need to mill. I’m currently rebuilding the engine in my 66 GT-350H right now. Priorities
j-

 

[Bill G]

There is no doubt the stock exhaust design is not good. I have various kart exhausts for them. When using it as a saw some blow it right at your hand which is not a good thing.

 

[j-jock]

Thanks for the tip! I’ve heard complaints about the auxiliary oilers not having good control and that sounds like a good solution

Yes, as I had stated, I started with a squished 1/4" copper tube, and am sure I could have found a way to have made it work better. The way it was set up, I was getting more water than I wanted, and didn't have a quick and easy method of controlling the flow. One of the things I could have done, would have been to put a plug in the end of the copper pipe, and drill the end out until I established the proper flow rate. As a matter of fact, that might be an easy way to get a good flow for the water.
For the oiler, a person could have a number of different copper tube tips, with a selection of different sized holes. A person could select among the different sizes until they established the correct flow rate for the temperature. I would guess that a person would require a larger selection of sizes for the oil, because the flow rate varies so much with temperature.
BTW: The 5 species of wood that I cut most frequently were, Douglas fir, hemlock, spruce, cedar, and BC broad leaf maple. Some were species were quite dry, and others, were quite hard. The maple in particular, was hard enough at times, that I actually ground a special chain, that had slightly more angle on the chippers, and less aggressive filing on the rakers. I am sorry that I can't remember exactly what I had set, but my excuse was that I would remember.
Edited to add a further comment.

 

[Up A Creek]

Here are a couple pictures of my mill with the nose oiler. When I start milling I crack the ball valve at the nose and the back of the mill. My motor does not have an internal oil pump. The nose tube on my mill has a fitting attached to the frame that seals with an O-Ring seals to a hole I’ve drilled in the bar where the chain passes by. Too much oil is not bad.
j-

I like this idea. I want to get the oil to the base of the chain somehow.

 

[Up A Creek]

That motor works good using the big air filter. When I built the exhaust, I made it exhaust away from me so I’m not having exhaust blowing back in my face. The stock muffler that American Power uses blows it back at me. I do use real good hearing protection when operating the engine.
Now that the weather is cooling down out here, I have a few logs I need to mill. I’m currently rebuilding the engine in my 66 GT-350H right now. Priorities
j-

I hate breathing the exhaust the entire time I'm milling; I think this is going to be my first non rebuilding chainsaw project.