no, you have to pound the bar in the right spots.
I get the bar in the vise with about 1/2 inch above the jaws and make reference marks about every inch with a magic marker.
then I start on each spot with a steel drift which I hit with a ball peen hammer on both sides.
after a few strikes I lay the chain in the rail and see where it's at. give it more hits if its loose, or open it back up with the screwdriver if it's too tight. keep doing this until the chain slides tight but free.
when I have an entire bar done this way the last thing I do is run it on the belt sander. I made a perfectly square guide for for my sander to lay the bar down on while I sand the edge down to true it up.
sounds like a lot of work, but these old 1/2 pitch David Bradley bars and classic roller nose bars aren't replaceable.
I tried one of those bar closers and threw it in the scrap pile after getting my money refunded.
junk.
others might have a better way of doing it, this is just what I came up with that works great.