I have a quaking aspen to take down. It's about 35 degree from horizontal, 40 feet "tall" and 15" in diameter. It roots are in the woods the rest hangs over the yard. I have ideas on how to approach it. Anyone been in this situation and had safe success?
barber chain leaner
- Thread starter alanbaker
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Pictures?
Yes sir. Many times. Pictures would be helpful.
Yup. Not that hard to do, but you'd better know how to do it right or it might get interesting...need pictures....
Anything in the direction it's leaning that could get damaged?
FLINT
ArboristSite Member
if you are worried about a barber chair it sounds like at least you want the tree to fall the direction that it's leaning.
have you ever used a bore or plunge cut to fell trees? that method should reduce the possibility for a barber chair. Look up the plunge or bore cut. I recently took a chainsaw certification course with the forest service and their head sawyer was a big proponent of using this method for felling trees. He said that you have so much more control over the tree because you don't cut the holding wood until you are all ready and already have your wedges pounded in (if needed). I've used it a few times and It does work good.
have you ever used a bore or plunge cut to fell trees? that method should reduce the possibility for a barber chair. Look up the plunge or bore cut. I recently took a chainsaw certification course with the forest service and their head sawyer was a big proponent of using this method for felling trees. He said that you have so much more control over the tree because you don't cut the holding wood until you are all ready and already have your wedges pounded in (if needed). I've used it a few times and It does work good.
If it's truly at 35 degrees, it's going to take a little more than just a bore cut to be safe. Really need some pics for good advice on this one.
Nothing in the fall zone, I am very familiar with bore cutting and here's pictures, closer to 45 degrees
Who told you that was an aspen?
Nevermind, I was finally able to zoom in.
Yeah, bore cut with a shallow notch and thick trigger.
Medium face, then bore cut. Make sure the face is nice and wide and leave a 1-1.5" hinge.
If you don’t do a bore cut be sure to get it on video. Kidding aside, I’ve only done 3 that far “gone”. One was a box elder and I used a lift and took it in pieces because I cared about what it might fall on. The second was a box elder that I didn’t care about what it fell on, but had the lift available and so took it in pieces and the third an ash. That third one, the bore cut and small knotch and 10%hinge worked perfectly for me. The ash was dying not dead and dry.
Slicksty6
ArboristSite Member
Any chance to cut the roots and slowly lay it down that way?
I followed the advice of the jolly logger and bearcreek. But there is always a bit of "art work" involved. How big of a face cut, how thick of a hinge, how much tigger wood to leave, which side to leave the tigger wood after borecut and cleaning out. Anyway not for the inexperienced. It was a bit anal scphincter tighten (because it was the first time attemting such a tree) but it work just as the jolley logger and bearcreek advised. Never saw a tree hit the ground so fast. Also a shout out to this site - I have yet to get bad advise. If I was not competent with bore cutting, it may not be as successful - need to know and acknowledge your own technical limits and not try to exceed them, or if your not dead, you will posting pictures of your cuts and broken bones,
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