Base Gasket Delete Gone Wrong?

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Okie294life

Brush Popper and Amateur Tree Butcher
AS Supporting Member.
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i just tried to do this on my 038mag stihl. Cleaned everything up good, laid a bead of yamabond on the case and slapped the cylinder on there. Torqued the head bolts tight, then got a decent torque wrench and found out they were over torqued, so I brought them back down to factory specs. I let the yamabond and loctite setup on the bolts for 24 hr. Went to run it today and it idles like crap and wants to scream when the throttle is applied. I assume there’s an air leak, could there be something I didn’t do right?
 
Be honest....
No I had a gasket in but not torqued right so it pulled the head bolts loose. I decided to get right and actually buy “the correct torque wrench” The delete seemed easy so I tried it. I may go back to gaskets if I can’t get this to work right, but the allure of higher compression is a definite plus. Looking back I should probably have just torqued the head bolts and rolled with it, but I’m learning. These pro saws are new to me. I can rebuild a clamshell, or fix about any trimmer that exists.
 
Rebuilding it, sorry. Got it second hand it had a stuck piston ring, and had been sitting for several years it looked like. I did all the seals and rubber and new piston. It was running pretty good until I discovered the head bolts had backed out.
 
I'm in the exact same boat with a Husqvarna 55 right now with a base gasket delete.
Idle is very high,
high and low carburetor adjustment screws do nothing as well as the idle adjustment.

No vacuum/pressure test (don't have those tools)
No idea if the thing ever ran right as I got the saw with a burned up piston. I have a possibility of it being a crank seal on the chain side as the saw was run hard enough with the chain brake on to melt some plastic on the chain brake housing.

I'll be watching this thread....
 
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