Bought "restored" CS-2145 (red sister of Husky 345)

[Homeowner]

Sometimes when you think you got a bargain, reality slaps on your face, from some odd reason that happens to me every time I buy something used.

I found an ad online where small engine repair shop did sell Jonsered cs-2145 for 167$ which around here is not a bad price at all, saw in pic looked to be quite ok condition too.

So I bought it and when it came by mail it was an oily mess, no problem I thought, compressed air cleans saws.

Then I tried to run it and started ok, idled fine, did not bog down when accelerated, but rpm was really low, tried to cut wood and my lowly Husqvarna 236 free time saw had more power.

Ok, sometimes they are not tuned properly, I did some tuning of carb and it started to sing a bit, however H-screw bottomed out and I still needed to turn more, clearly that was sign of the problem.

After disassembling the saw I did noticed that saw had new piston and cylinder had seen some sand paper, but intake boot was really loose to cylinder, intake boot was the type with plastic clamp, which is not good.

Worse part is probably that cylinder's surface where intake boot connects to, had scores like if it had been sanded with sand paper.

I took measurements from stock 353 cylinder that I have sitting on a desk and compared this Jonsered's cylinder measurement, it seems someone or something has taken roughly 0.2mm material off from that mounting area for intake boot or it has smaller diameter from some other reason.

However it means that even 353's intake boot with metal clamp is not tight fit, I can install it without removing metal clamp and that is not creating proper seal.

Now I hope that getting boot to seal will help with H-screw bottoming out issue?

Also I would like to know if installing hardware store hose clamp (those used for garden hoses, but appropriate size) is bad idea? I can grind it down a bit so that clamp is narrower (as it is wider than proper clamp), but do you think tightening rubber boot with such is going to be bad course of action?
I ask because I do have those clamps at house, sourcing new ones takes quite bit of time as only trees are locally available, also not sure if getting boot tighter by squeezing with clamp will work at sealing the boot to cylinder.

This is 3rd saw that I have dismantled, saw repairing is quite new hobby to me, I started just month ago, but I do have now 353 (piston pin circlip disappeared), CS-2145 (this new saw) and 236 (intake "manifold" cracked, after fixing that ignition coil failed during next start up at same day) in pieces, I guess that I need to buy more saws

Because of information found on this site, I decided to buy that saw, I had no idea how much common the saw has with Husky 353 and having two similar ones helps a lot with spares and repairs, so thanks from all that shared info!

 

[svk]

First of all welcome to the site!

I guess if you just bought the saw and it was full of issues why not go back to the seller and look for reparations rather than tear it down immediately? Sounds as if it was possibly pieced together with Chinese parts that sometimes just will not fit right.

 

[Homeowner]

First of all welcome to the site!

I guess if you just bought the saw and it was full of issues why not go back to the seller and look for reparations rather than tear it down immediately? Sounds as if it was possibly pieced together with Chinese parts that sometimes just will not fit right.

Seller would only settle with cancelling the deal, for me, I think I have plenty of value for what I paid and as I can fix the issues it is no problem for me, oh and saw is quite pretty, body is in good shape, so it makes nice platform for something stupid and expensive, but lot of fun

I tried to add some pics, not sure about cylinder condition, but if I get 60 hours from it, I will be happy to do some spicing up.

It seems they used Plastic padding's Instant gasket to seal cylinder to body, I have had bad luck with that where there is fuel and high pressure involved.

 

[Homeowner]

Oh, now I feel rather stupid, which of course is nothing new, but I had some lapse in my brain/memory again, turning H-needle clockwise/in leans the mixture, so what is happening is that saw is running way too rich.

Now that I have fixed intake boot issue, running richer is much worse than before, it is actually so bad that when H-needle is fully closed saw is barely able to reach powerband when free revving, but in a cut chain stops as saw is having too much fuel.

Spark plug is all wet as is cylinder.

Must be some issue with the carb, but still I'm bit worried that idle adjustment needs to be backed of completely to lower idle to proper levels, which could mean there still being some air leak, maybe I did not manage to seal bottom end properly.

I try 353 carb on that next and if having still issues then I have to take it apart again.

It seems moderators have lot of work to do as my previous reply is still queued, well everything takes time it takes, I did put some pics to that reply, so when their workload eases off they should appear.

edit: I took that 353's Zama carb and put it into 2145, now it works, can't tell much of difference between this and 2250 neighbor has, except 2250 seems to be bit heavier, power band might be bit narrower in 2145 but there is not much difference in how they cut.

 

[Homeowner]

I have now run couple of tanks with the saw and it seems to be working just fine.

Also it seems that I managed to fix leaking oil issue too by adding little bit of liquid gasket so that plastic body's oil groove seals to metal plate, so only dripping is now between guide bar and metal plate.

I was thinking about swapping oil pump drive ring and oil pump from 353, then I could modify 353 metal plate to fit into Jonsered, that needs one hole to be drilled I believe as screw that holds the plate is different side of crank on 353, other than that those plates seem to be similar. Don't know proper name for that part, but it sits between guide bar and saw body.

One thing I have noticed is that when I let off throttle saw kind of pops, maybe that is backfiring, in a car that could mean mixture issue, so I might pull the cylinder again just to be sure that I have cylinder sealed to plastic body properly. I had little issues with liquid gasket there.