Breakin In A 385WXP

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Gypo Logger

Timber Baron
Joined
Dec 8, 2001
Messages
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Location
Yukon Territory
Hi there, I wanted to breakin the "Big Cahoona", so I cranked up the 385 and ran 3 tanks thru her on throttle lock. The chain and bar will be nice as well. I will use this saw with Uncle Art's chain and really lean right into it on an 8x8. The 385 has lots of compression, or so it seems as one yanks the starter grip.
Thanks John Walker,
John
 
Hi Gypo, that saw is a thing of beauty, only thing is, that looks like blood coming off the bar. You been throwing hunks of meat on it or something, ala the Maxim "chainsaw massacre"? Russ:cool:
 
I must appolagize, the red stuff is just canola oil mixed with beet juice. During the chain run, I will use 15-40 engine oil. Clean engine oil works well, but just mix it with WD40 and watch the big chips fly.
John
 
Hey John, It looks as if those pesky wolves have made it across the lake and are in your area also! Must have been that really cold day last week when the lake froze over. I`m not sure if they are attracted to the scent of freshly cut wood fiber, or the scent of fresh wood cutters. Be careful, they are so un-afraid of man that they will eat right out of your hand!:D
 
Hey John, have you ever considered a second career as a special effects man for some movie company? You seem to have a handle on different mixtures, ie your canola oil and beet juice!
Great looking saw too!!
Tony
 
Fearsome looking, bareing his fangs like that. it has been said that they can be tamed and become your most loyal companions however! I have found this to be true, nothing beats the loyalty of your canine companion! They`ll go anywhere with you anytime and won`t ask why, how long, or how much. Sure is refreshing isn`t it. Russ
 
Hi there, I was very frightened as the Brush Wolf sauntered out of the timber just as I clicked the shutter. I think it was trying to muckle onto my sandwich. If you look really close you can see his den to the right of the picture. At first I thought it was a groundhog that had come out to see his shadow. Oh well, just another 4 months of winter.
Hi John, glad to see you on this forum. I havent cut a single stick yet with your 385 as I will be using it for some recreational speed cutting. Art Martin and Walt Galer have kindly supplied me with a chain they have modified for the occasion. I will be taking some digital movies while testing my skill or lack of it on an 8x8 poplar.
I dont know what you did to the 385 John, but it has more compression than the 088 and is sure to be another possessed saw for sure, especially with the 16" bar I have on it.
I sent you out my Silvey grinder so your dad can smarten it up for me, so you should have it soon.
You havent been in the chainsaw business till you have met Gilbert here in Northern Ontario, he's an incredible character. Read about him in the Sept/Oct. issue of Canadian Geographic.
Here's a picture of the entrance to his driveway.
Thanks,
John
 
Hey Guys

This is probably not the best thread to ask this question but I'll give it a try...

I know that as the temperature gets colder it gets harder on the chain and you have to dress it up more often. Is there some thmb rule that says below a certain temperature you're better off waiting for a warmer day??

Frank
 
Hi Frank, a good rule of thumb is to "Make Hay While the Sun Shines", in other words, work when you can or when you feel like it. Most bar and chain problems are caused by plunging the saw into snow which causes chipping and possible chain fracture due to the extreme temp fluctuation. Not a reason to stop cutting though, these problems can be almost eliminated by proper bar and chain maintainance and not taking rakers down too far.
I rarely work when there is more than 20 degrees of frost, but than again I rarely work lol. Most of my logging I do on this computer.
John
 
Hi Gypo Im glad your happy with the 385. The last dyno run we did we have obtained an extra 1.5 Hp. We ran this one with 1 ring and tried some different ignition timing. Gained .4 Hp.
Have converted in the last 2 months 6 stihl 066 fallers to the 385 and they are loving us for it LOL.
Your buddy with all the signs I bet he has a real nice grave yard of saws LOL
We will take care of the grinder for you and have a great weekend you Crazy Canuck LOL
Johnny Canuck
 
hi John x2 - that 385wxpg looks like it will drive through some planks like a bat out of h*ll. Anyway, how many hp does a 385 have stock - i saw you posted a 1.5hp increase, but im sure this was from your own dyno benchmark you made since they exaggerate the h[ from the factory. Isnt it asking for trouble running a motor with just one ring? ie. i know there are several saws out there with just one ring from the factory- but running just one on a saw made to run two...? is this a great durability issue or just another friction & heat adder in the motor?:confused:

interesting youre prying the stihl users away from maybe the best saw they have out there (066) - i have heard great things about the 385 and im looking forward to running mine when i get it back from dennis:D great work - nothing like seeing the light!:blob2:
___________________
orange means business
 
Last edited:
Howdy Frank,

Your question as to low temperatures for sawchain has at least three answers:

chains made with .50Cr, .70Ni have a designed critical temperature of minus 35F below zero. All the older professional chains were made this way. Carlton and Stihl still are. Oregon, I'm not so sure of anymore. These chains will have reasonable resistance to crack formations from frictionally altered part bottom surfaces.

chains made with .25Cr and .30Ni should be expected to have a critical temperature around minus 20F below zero. Chain's in this group will have notably less resistance to frictionaly altered surface crack growth to failure.

The third class of chains is the consumer chains with .01Cr and .01Ni. These have a critical operating temperature around zero F, and next to no resistance to propogation of frictionally formed and thermal fatigue cracks. These chains are definitly not wise to use in cold weather.

In all cases, the use of a good light motor oil for chain and bar lube will decrease the part bottom failures in cold weather. John is right about the plunge into snow. That means the chain gets hot on the bar and then is quenched in the snow. Many cycles of this, and the material forms a whole series of micro cracks on the sidelink part bottoms, first at the heel (back rivet) of the cutters. Nickle in the alloy slows the growth of these cracks. These are called thermal fatigue cracks for the above reason.

A good professional chain, used in -20 to -30F weather and in full time professional use, will usually have a useful life of two weeks if good oil is used and enough of it to have a visible sling off of the bar nose when not cutting. The HP of the saw makes little difference. (The speed does! Overly lowering depthgauges will cause premature failure).

Regards,
Walt Galer
 
Walt / Gypo

Thanks for the info about cold weather cutting. To tell you the truth I never tought about the effect of letting the hot chain hit the cold snow, (not that I do it often). But I will sure work at avoiding it in the future. I've been running Stihl chains, and judging from what you guys are saying they sould be reasonably resiliant. By the way, don't get me wrong, I only cut firewood out of my wood lot and do a little logging and forest improvement work, so I can put work off til it warms. I guess for the most part I don't cut when it gets down into the teens (F).

By the way, does anyone know where I can come up with one of those paint squirters for marking trees? I've used one once and it is a lot easier that using a spray can where you have to walk up to every tree.

Frank
 
Hi Frank, I found those pistol grip spraycan attachments at both the Canadian Tire Store and painting suppy shops. As you say they are great for marking timber. This one was made by Krylon.
John
 
You`d better check with the Chief Provincial Firearms Office and make sure you don`t need a permit for that.
 
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