Budget Chainsaw Buying

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As for the "hard time starting if not used a lot" (irregular use), just spend the extra bucks on alkylate/synthetic fuel (Aspen 2 or the like). Regardless of chainsaw brand, it's the only real solution to that problem, short of flushing the tank and running the carb dry after every use (if you don't know what the next occasion for use will be). My experience is that I tend to not do that (storing the saw dry), even if I know better, so the synthetic fuel is the solution.
If you don't run the saw that much the extra cost of the fuel won't set you back too much and will save you a lot of frustration.
Other than that, I'd go with the advice to get a good 2nd hand pro saw and spend the gift card on PPE and spare chains etc.
 
I received a helpful $200 gift card to Rural King for Christmas to go toward a new chainsaw. I would prefer not to put more then another $200 towards it or less. But could probably do more if I have to. I'm wondering what advice I can get from you all. Stihl seems to be the most popular but, I hear alot of folks have a hard time starting them if they don't use them a lot. I'm not sure how much I'll end up using the saw. We just got a house with a wood burning fireplace. Its neat now but I might not want to get into the wood harvesting thing.

Here is what I think I should be looking for: (let me know if you think of anything else)
- 18" to 20" bar
- 50cc or close to that
- easily starts
- isn't leaky
- doesn't suck down gas like I drink bourbon
- parts wont dry out from non use

I guess basically, what would you recommend for the $200 to $400 price range? I can use the gift card for other things.

Also, have any of you had experience with a Garwinner?
https://www.amazon.com/Chainsaws-Po...+chainsaw&qid=1672771914&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-3
never heard of Garwinner. during the scamdemic I bought 2 G660 chainsaws for $700 bucks, because I couldn't get any MS 661s, I have had it on my Logosol CM for over 2 yrs and I have milled 1000s of bft with it and no issues. if you want a cheap saw, I would buy one over the Garwinner. and I bought mine threw wagnerschainsaws.com and they run it to make sure no issues before you get it. I do run all my saws at 32:1 with E-free gas too. but I would go with a MS 261 if you can swing the extra $ towards it. now when you said need an easy start saw, do you have a bad shoulder? Or you just don't want to be cranking on it half the day? My 261 starts on 3rd pull.
 
Based on your specs, I'd recommend an MS261, but you're not going to get one for $400. That said, I'd reach out to these guys and see if they can build a 261 clone for you.

https://www.bluesaws.com/collections/bulletproof-custom-performance-saws
If they can, you'll probably have enough left over to get a set of chaps and a helmet.

As far as not starting after sitting, use non-ethonol fuel, and run the tank dry if it's going to sit for several months.
 
If you are an occasional saw user, around the house, storm clean up, etc. I'd say a new Stihl MS180, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, would be good choices.
If you want something a bit more powerful, yet not dramatically expensive, I'd go with a new Echo CS-680. Myself and two other guys I know use the CS-680 as their primary saw for everything.
For the average homeowner/recreational saw user, I'd say buy brand new.


.
 
Thanks all, I appreciate all the good advice. I will look into all these options. Is there a forum explaining necessity of some of the safety gear? I understand things like safety glasses, gloves, long sleeves, pants and steel toe boots. Chaps and Helmet I don't completely get though.
 
Thanks all, I appreciate all the good advice. I will look into all these options. Is there a forum explaining necessity of some of the safety gear? I understand things like safety glasses, gloves, long sleeves, pants and steel toe boots. Chaps and Helmet I don't completely get though.
Google chainsaw chaps test. Helmets with face protection to protect you from flying chips. Most helmets have built in hearing protection.
 
Thanks all, I appreciate all the good advice. I will look into all these options. Is there a forum explaining necessity of some of the safety gear? I understand things like safety glasses, gloves, long sleeves, pants and steel toe boots. Chaps and Helmet I don't completely get though.
Safety gear is like insurance. If your perfect with no outside variables and never get in a hurry or hungry or tired or dehydrated, and keep a clear work area and walk with your chain break on and don’t reach far and cut or cut in piles you probably will be fine. I have not needed my safety gear yet thankfully. I do push the envelope at times. Sometimes also we can over complicate things and never get started till it’s perfect. That’s how I tend to be.

What uses are you planning for the saw? Size of branches or trees and how often? How vital is it that you cut as fast as possible? Knowing those things would help us make a better saw recommendation. What saws have you used that you liked?
Is maneuverability and weight more important or power?
Do you want this saw you last 3, 5 or 10+ years?
 
I have had very good luck with an Echo CS-590 Timberwolf, and that includes a clumsy talentless novice phase. By going online to Home Depot, I ordered the thing for $399 new, delivered. Not certain they still have the same offer, but by now the design has been on the market a few years, and better deals might be available. And I tested the warranty by breaking the oiler by accident; they fixed it FOC. No other repairs in 4.5 years, and I have used it every second month or so. Here in Maryland, Stabil Marine (and a dehumidifier) seems to lengthen the amount of time premix lasts, though ethanol-free gas is still a better idea.
 
if you do get the safety gear, which i STRONGLY recommend (ask me why), WEAR AND USE it EVERY time you use the saw. those are dangerous tools, ask me how i know.
personally, i've only ever bought one new saw since 1985 but have many used saws that i've rebuilt. don't know if you're mechanically inclined but, if so, there are some good old magnesium saws out there.
be careful
 
Echo is known for having a long warranty and often rumored to not honor it well. I think a real shop would be better for getting warranty work done than a big box store. None of my Stihl or Echo equipment has needed any warranty work at all so I can't say from personal experience.

Saw chaps are made of material that clogs the chain and stalls the saw, hopefully before the chain cuts into your leg.

When I ran saws for the US forest service there were a lot of chaps with cuts in them in the chaps storage area (I do not know why, since they are not repairable). And a number of guys had cut marks on the steel toes of their logger boots. There was one guy you could address by the nickname "nine toes" but only if you wanted to make him mad.
 
Depending on how often you plan on running the saw, you may also want to look into a battery powered chainsaw. Never any issues getting one of those to start after sitting for a while.

As far as safety gear, keep in mind that a chainsaw is a lot like a gas powered lawn mower that you hold in your hands except that it has no deck to keep protect you, and instead of having one blade it has 70+, and when those cutters grab you they don't just lop part of you off, they tend to grab hold and pull you in.
 
I was puzzled by some of the comments talking up Husqvarna... and that puzzled me. Not because I have anything against Husqvarna, but my local RK stocks Stihl instead.
I like @scut207 's advice to spend the gift card on all the other gear you should have. (Don't skimp on chaps! Back in the day, [before Kevlar] I got a little careless and tore up a pair of pants and scraped my thigh about as bad as you'd get falling off your bike... I got the message!)
That leaves you free to buy the saw that fits your needs best, rather than being restricted to what one store has. One important point: look for a servicing dealer. You are buying the support as much as the saw. Shop at a dealer that you can get along with and that will take care of your saw when you can't.

If you decide on a Stihl, my advice would be to stay away from the ...C-BE models. The so-called convenience features do not improve the saw IMO.
I recently bought an Echo (great dealer) and have nothing but praise for it.
I have no experience with Husqvarna.
 
I was puzzled by some of the comments talking up Husqvarna... and that puzzled me. Not because I have anything against Husqvarna, but my local RK stocks Stihl instead.
I like @scut207 's advice to spend the gift card on all the other gear you should have. (Don't skimp on chaps! Back in the day, [before Kevlar] I got a little careless and tore up a pair of pants and scraped my thigh about as bad as you'd get falling off your bike... I got the message!)
That leaves you free to buy the saw that fits your needs best, rather than being restricted to what one store has. One important point: look for a servicing dealer. You are buying the support as much as the saw. Shop at a dealer that you can get along with and that will take care of your saw when you can't.

If you decide on a Stihl, my advice would be to stay away from the ...C-BE models. The so-called convenience features do not improve the saw IMO.
I recently bought an Echo (great dealer) and have nothing but praise for it.
I have no experience with Husqvarna.

My position on husky was only due to what the RK website had. If he wants to forgo safety gear he would at least be buying a non-chinese quality saw. I do think the homeowner stihls and husky are overpriced for what they deliver. A homeowner who has a lot of land probably should be looking at semi-pro or pro saws, if they ever imagine they will be using wood as a heat source.

The OP had a rather conflicting set of priorities at the budget:

- 18" to 20" bar - most folks would stick to a 16" on a 50cc but you can prob go 18 or 20 depending on the model (even a ms261 recommends a 16" and the 550xp specs 16-20" iirc you get more of your bar in the wood on a stihl so that might make a difference)
- 50cc or close to that - Ok seems about right for a homeowner
- easily starts - Most properly tuned saws start fairly easy. Youre average every day joe not actively participating in a 2-stroke forum doesnt know how to tune a saw.
- isn't leaky - guessing this is translated to build quality, which is inversely related to budget
- doesn't suck down gas like I drink bourbon - For an occastional use saw, who cares really
- parts wont dry out from non use - Electric saw is the only one that wont have rubber failure over time but youre not gonna get one that runs like a 50cc or close for $400 (MSA300 is like $800, 540i XP is $1k) , however if gas and you use non-eth fuel or the name brand premix your better off by a long shot, but rubber will always rot over time. I'm not against electric, like a dewalt 14" I think theyre great for a homeowner that doesnt have any ambition in actually felling and bucking a tree, but might want it for clearing a trail or similar.

I think the op would be best served by that XP I linked if its in good running shape from CL, costs damn near equiv to a chinese saw new, and will handle anything he needs from it in the future should he winterize it properly.

I think spending that amount of money on an unknown-if-you-can- fix saw is pretty damn close equivalent to tossing it out the window. you'll likely get 90hrs out of the thing before it starts shaking itself apart.

my 2c
 
If I was looking for a single saw for medium duty use, on a budget, I would get something like an Echo CS 590 Timberwolf, or Stihl MS 260, MS 261.
I have a husky 359 that I have had for years and has been an excellent saw and also a Makita/Dolmar 4300 which really is my “go to” saw for most of my cutting.

If you are handy and you can do a bit of work yourself, you can save a bit if you buy a used saw out of warranty. I’ve never taken any of my equipment to a shop for repair. I just figured out how to fix it myself.

Some people can’t be bothered doing it themselves, but the convenience of taking it to others to work on costs money.

The old saying buy once cry once, holds true when it comes to purchases like this. Don’t buy Chinese junk that you will regret.

The safety equipment is important. One accident with a chainsaw can change your life in a second. I have had one close call personally and watched somebody else nick their leg. Once you experience something like this, you will understand the value of the safety equipment. Take our word for it. Don’t learn by experience.

Use your $200 for peripherals, including safety equipment and get yourself a decent sawthat will last a lifetime.

Cheers, happy cutting
 
My “go to” saw that I use the most out of my collection is a new Stihl MS 180 C-BE. It’s only 9 pounds, has a 16” bar, and does what I need it to. I’m not a pro and don’t heat my house with firewood, so it’s a convenient little saw to use around my property. I’ve heard a few bad things about the Easy2start system on the C-BE models, but I’ve had nothing but good experiences with mine. You wanna talk about something that’s easy to start? This thing is the easiest saw I’ve ever started. I’ve heard good things about Echo and Husqvarna as well. I have a Husqvarna weed wacker that is absolutely wicked. Good luck with whatever you choose!
 

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