cannot start Stihl 009

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LexiK

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I have 2 Stihl 009 chainsaws, my husband bought them years ago as he had a bad back. He is no longer here to maintain the saws so I do my best to keep them going. They get non-ethanol fuel and Stihl oil. They are used lightly, only by me. Not often, but it is nice to have 2 running saws with me when I work on trails or a downed tree, in case one gets stuck. I bought a 40v battery powered saw last year, it is ok for small stuff but just does not have the power of a conventional saw. The one Stihl 009 has had a hard time starting for years now, once it starts it runs like a top but starting is a bear. Last week I did 20 pulls on it and finally gave up. Last year I took it into the local co-op and, after attempting a few pulls, the man looked at the sparkplug. He said "there is no gas on the sparkplug". He kept pulling and finally the saw started and sounded and ran great. I asked the man if there was anything he could do so that I can start it , even after it sits for 3-4 months. He said "the saw is old". Any ingenious ideas out there, for ease of starting? I do not mind getting a new lightweight saw but if I can keep using these two saws I would rather do that.
 
Those saws get maligned but actually cut/run pretty well. I have a top handle for pruning.

Check that the choke is closing properly. Those saws came with 2 styles of carb covers but they work about the same, choke fits into cover. Another thing you can do on a cold start is to prime the carb with a shot of mix to get it to pop over.

Could also be diaphragms in carb are getting stiff and it needs a kit. Check the choke first and try the priming before tearing into the carb.

Here is an IPL and shop manual for reference. Not much detail on taking choke apart.
 

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  • 009shopManual.pdf
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  • 009 ipl.pdf
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May not be something you want to get in to, but if it has been sitting a while you can take maybe a half a thimble full of mix and pour it straight down the carb.
I do it all the time when peopple bring in stuff that has been sitting .
Then it should be good for the rest of the time you are using it.
 
"half a thimble full of mix and pour it straight down the carb." I would do that. Just have to figure out where the carb is.......Is the pull cord ever replaced? I do always take the slack out before the big pull but the pull is not always smooth.
 
"half a thimble full of mix and pour it straight down the carb." I would do that. Just have to figure out where the carb is.......Is the pull cord ever replaced? I do always take the slack out before the big pull but the pull is not always smooth.

There is a access door on top of those saws, lift it off and remove the felt like airfilter, the carb is directly below . If you are going to work on these saws it would be best to familiarize yourself with the components that make it run, look at the files posted by Mad Professor in post #2 above, the carb itself is found on page 12 but its position on the saw is under the removable cover on page 5.
 
It is just a flat head screw that holds the cover and it is hinged and tilts up from the back.
There are two lines that come out of the tank. One is the tank vent and the other is the fuel line. They will have to be replaced eventually if they haven't been already.
Thing is, if it will take off and keep running after fuel squirted directly in the carb it should be OK.
Don't be afraid to do it twice or even three times if it doesn't pick up the fuel the first time.
Sometimes it takes a little coaxing to get the buggers out.
 
There is a access door on top of those saws, lift it off and remove the felt like airfilter, the carb is directly below . If you are going to work on these saws it would be best to familiarize yourself with the components that make it run, look at the files posted by Mad Professor in post #2 above, the carb itself is found on page 12 but its position on the saw is under the removable cover on page 5.
^^^^what he said. Look at the manuals I attached, download them.

Two flathead screwdriver screws hold the cover. The clean side of the air filter, and the opening of the carb are just under the cover.

No need to remove filter to get mix in carb, unless it's dirty and you want to clean it. You can clean it with dish detergent and warm water, rinse well, let it air dry.

Clean under where the filter was and around the carb too. Spray automotive starting fluid will rinse that area out, put a piece of paper towel in the carb inlet so debris don't get in.
"half a thimble full of mix and pour it straight down the carb." I would do that. Just have to figure out where the carb is.......Is the pull cord ever replaced? I do always take the slack out before the big pull but the pull is not always smooth.
 
My 009 only has one screw holding the cover , there are likely a couple different covers but the carb is right there under the filter, a few drops of mix certainly helps get the saw started quickly, all saws in general will benefit from some mix sprayed in the carb throat, I have a pump style spray bottle with mix in it sitting on the bench full time for just this reason. Starting saws that have sit for long periods need a lot of pulls over to get fuel through the carb the priming shortens the procedure.
 
The cover does have one screw. I see the very clean air filter and the opening on the upper right side. Is that the area I need to put the fuel mixture into? I realize a very small amount may be needed, I like the idea of a spray bottle with the mixture. Once the carb is primed, should I try starting then or put the cover back on first? Once the saw has started it runs well and starts easily when turned off. But when it has been sitting for a while it gets temperamental. BTW, in 2021 it got a new fuel filter/sparkplug/air filter.
 
No need to put the cover back on as long as you clean any debris around it that it could suck in.
If you have an air compressor you can stick your thumb over the carb opening and blow all the saw dust out.

When it is running revved up there should be a stream of fuel coming out of the large nozzle that you can see in the carburetor and the air flow turns it in to a cloud of mist in the end of the barrel and even outside of the barrel getting sucked back in.

If you don't see that mist the carb is not pumping either because of a stuck metering diaphragm , fuel pump, or bad fuel line.
 
I have one of these type but any will work, I like the mist better than the liquid drops, two squeezes and its ready for a start pull.

1-443-007.jpg
 
O.K. If I put my standard fuel mixture in a spray bottle, that is what I want? Just have to be sure I am putting it in the correct place. When I take off the cover, the air filter in place, is it the "open area" in the upper right corner Alternatively, could I take out the sparkplug, put a bit of liquid in there, put sparkplug back in place, and attempt to start?
 
O.K. If I put my standard fuel mixture in a spray bottle, that is what I want? Just have to be sure I am putting it in the correct place. When I take off the cover, the air filter in place, is it the "open area" in the upper right corner Alternatively, could I take out the sparkplug, put a bit of liquid in there, put sparkplug back in place, and attempt to start?

Hold the throttle open as you squirt a couple of times into the "hole"/Carb intake.
 
Check out "Home Garage" on youtube. He shows the technique of squirting fuel down the carb in almost every video. I like to use a pistol oiler when I need to put gas down the carb. Both putting fuel down the carb and taking out the spark plug and putting fuel directly in the cylinder will work. However, I would recommend going the carb route because it is possible to strip/damage threads on the cylinder head by repeatedly taking the spark plug in and out.
 
Sprayed two times into the carb opening with trigger locked "on". tried starting 10 pulls, no luck. Took out sparkplug, did one spray in the opening, put sparkplug back in, on second pull the saw started, then immediately died and will not start again. I will let it sit until this afternoon and try again.
 
Sprayed two times into the carb opening with trigger locked "on". tried starting 10 pulls, no luck. Took out sparkplug, did one spray in the opening, put sparkplug back in, on second pull the saw started, then immediately died and will not start again. I will let it sit until this afternoon and try again.
Might take a few times of adding mix/pulling starter to get carb primed. If it popped that's a good sign.
 
So, re: spraying into the carb. I put in two pumps, could I have done more? Watched a few "home garage" videos, then one woman who had ideas on starting saws, she had some practical ideas. One was to give the starter cord one or two small, light, short pulls before you give it the big pull.
 

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