carb not getting fuel

[Okie]

You really have to pay very CLOSE attention to Chainsaw carb kits.
I very closely compare all the parts being remove to the parts being installed and I keep the old removed parts marked as used with my saws ID, especially until after I get a good turn and run with the new kit. Sometimes I think the carb parts being removed are OEM and then notice that the OEM new parts do not match, especially needle valves, diaphragm buttons, metering levers. sometimes have to use a mic to compare.
If I see warped and distorted screw slot heads I immediately know that a Bubba has been into the carb previously and no telling what might be upset.

Sometimes if paying close attention to detail Ronnie Milsap can see the difference, sometimes not.

Good to hear you finally got a run.

 

[max1804]

When I rebuilt my TS420 concrete saw I put in a rebuild kit but the first thing I noticed is that the needle was slightly different and I didn't install it. If your carb was rebuilt with a aftermarket kit it could have a different needle which you will never be able to determine without the original to compare. I thought that you had two carbs and both don't work properly, what are the chances both are set wrong. Like I said before I tried to get the carb to pop with pressure but I replaced it due to a bad internal check valve and the new one wouldn't pop either.

Not sure how your carb never lever should be set but the couple of carbs I did were level with the face of the carb body.
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I do the rebuilt assum it the oem kit inside a use the spring/gasket and diaphram. But reuse my old needle for the same reason you post

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I do the rebuilt assum it the oem kit inside a use the spring/gasket and diaphram. But reuse my old needle for the same reason you post

If the needle is good, yes, just the oe kit (diaphragms and gaskets only) should do the trick.