I recently bought a box,and I mean big box of old used saw chains.Some were wore down to 20% cutter,some look like they were used once and hit the ground.There were also 7 carbide chains included.I know enough about carbide chains that I cant sharpen them with a file,but I was wondering if the small hand held grinders like the Stihl would do the job?I figure 7 carbide chains would last me for several years and a small grinder would pay for itself in no time.Thanks for any help
Carbide Chain
- Thread starter Bubster
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Correct, don’t waste your files on those carbides. IF they’re damaged, you need a diamond tool to sharpen carbide. The Cbn wheels might do as well, but I have no experience with them.
I know I have seen diamond files out there for sale
No to CBN wheel ! All you will do is ruin a perfectly good CBN wheel.
A good diamond wheel will do a fine job on them.
On the other hand, you will need a decent saw sharpener (motorized grinder) to set the angles correctly.
If all you are doing is hand filing, you might consider calling your local fire department and then asking them where they sharpen their carbide chains. They might know someone that will do it for you.
Our fire dept. throws them away rather than sharpening, but I cannot get them to give me the discarded chains.
A good diamond wheel will do a fine job on them.
On the other hand, you will need a decent saw sharpener (motorized grinder) to set the angles correctly.
If all you are doing is hand filing, you might consider calling your local fire department and then asking them where they sharpen their carbide chains. They might know someone that will do it for you.
Our fire dept. throws them away rather than sharpening, but I cannot get them to give me the discarded chains.
diamond bit for a dremel will work well!
https://www.amazon.com/HTS-111C3-4-Diamond-Chainsaw-Sharpening/dp/B01FT8UKMA
something like these but in the appropriate size for the chain
https://www.amazon.com/HTS-111C3-4-Diamond-Chainsaw-Sharpening/dp/B01FT8UKMA
something like these but in the appropriate size for the chain
I have never tried those on a carbide chain, but I have tried them long ago on a normal chain. The little grinder bits have the right size, and they do just as well on sharpening as hand filing. But not appreciably faster, nor any better.
I am certain that we would discover that those tiny carbide-sharpening bits will wear out very quickly and not be very effective.
I am certain that we would discover that those tiny carbide-sharpening bits will wear out very quickly and not be very effective.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
I wouldn't even bother cutting with the carbide chain. I've used them before...great at venting a roof, not so great for cutting firewood.
You need a decent sized grinder and a good diamond (not CBN) wheel to sharpen carbide chains. Carbide often chips, so you may need more than a ‘touch up’ of some edges.
Depending on what loops you have, and what saws/bars you have, you might be able to combine or re-size loops to fit your saws, and remove heavily damaged cutters.
From reports here on A.S., carbide fire service chain is designed to cut building materials and does not work great on trees. Carbide chain designed for trees works better, but cuts slower than conventional chain.
Philbert
Depending on what loops you have, and what saws/bars you have, you might be able to combine or re-size loops to fit your saws, and remove heavily damaged cutters.
From reports here on A.S., carbide fire service chain is designed to cut building materials and does not work great on trees. Carbide chain designed for trees works better, but cuts slower than conventional chain.
Philbert
Stihl picco carbide chain seemed to cut well as most other picco I have used. I never had to sharpen the 1 I used considerably. Eventually a few teeth chipped or broke but it still cut decent.
Thanks for the replies everybody.I cut a lot of dirty,gritty stuff that gets drug out of fence rows and such.And there is always that 2 inch long piece of wire I find in every 50 foot long tree.Every chain I got in that box is a 20" .Guy ran em on 440s and 460s .I have an old 044 I will put them to use on.I found a shop about 30 miles from me that will grind the carbide chains for $22 each.Seems a bit steep,but cheap considering the price of carbide chain (or any chain now).I always have my other saws for clean wood,and my chains on them should last me for years without being in the fence row wood.
$22 each for carbide sounds wrong - too cheap. I think I pay $2 a tooth or so. What ever the cost per tooth, it ends up being close to the price of a new chain. I run carbide chains on most of my saws because of the dirty work I do. My opinion is they don’t save money on chain expense but they save a lot of labor.
I thought $22 was steep. $2 per tooth i would think you would be money behind if they were sharpened less then perfect.
Im retired and do volunteer work - outside stuff, including leading volunteer sawyers. Many of these guys have limited saw experience. I remember one time a guy was literally running the chain in the dirt to cut a root. Carbide chains are a BIG HELP for me. I don’t think they cost anymore to run than regular chains. Sharpening costs three times more but they last >3 times longer.
He grinds regular chains up to 20" for $12.From what I saw on the Bay and a few other places,Rapid Duro sells for around $65-$75 for 20 inch.Like Brushwacker said,I would probably just buy a new chain before I spent more than $30 for a grinding.
Hello
I own three Carbide chains:
- an affordable AM loop, that I have yet to try
- a Stihl Picco Duro 3 ( 3/8" LowProfile Semi Chisel), still sharp, cuts great
- a Stihl Rapid Duro 3 ( 3/8" Semi Chisel), ran it for many tanks full of fuel, cut great while factory ground sharp
I bucked dozens of cubik meters of firewood logs for an entire year with the Stihl Rapid Duro 3 before it got dull to a point where I considered it truly dull.
I could have taken the loop to my local Stihl dealer, but I wanted to be able to sharpen it myself.
I considered filing the chain, but that would have been a lengthy endeavor with a truly dull carbide chain.
I purchased a dremel type straight shaft grinder off eBay, and separately a set of diamond burs. With this setup I managed to get my carbide chain to "working condition" a couple times, but the cutters didn't keep their edge for long as the factory grind did.
Me liking self feeding sharp chains I shelved the chain for years untill I purchased a dedicated chain grinder this year. I also purchased an AM diamond grinding wheel and finaly ground my Stihl Rapid Duro 3 chain and the curters look good - although I have yet to give the freshly ground chain a try.
I may manage to try the chain this week, I will report back if I do.
The dremel type grinder, it was about 25$ off eBay.
My recently purchased chain grinder, AMA MAXX (take note, not a diamond wheel on it in the picture)
At 20$ per loop and 7 loops at hand I would look into finding a way to sharpen my own carbide chains!
Also, please take note that although a carbide chain will resist wear against dirt and sand, it will chip and deteriorate excessively hitting stones and other foreign objects (nails, wire, screws, bolts,...).
In general I find it easier to sharpen a severely damaged "steel" chain than a carbide tipped one.
If Your carbide chains are Stihl Rapid/Picco Duro 3 ones they are worth bringing back to working condition!
Cheers
I own three Carbide chains:
- an affordable AM loop, that I have yet to try
- a Stihl Picco Duro 3 ( 3/8" LowProfile Semi Chisel), still sharp, cuts great
- a Stihl Rapid Duro 3 ( 3/8" Semi Chisel), ran it for many tanks full of fuel, cut great while factory ground sharp
I bucked dozens of cubik meters of firewood logs for an entire year with the Stihl Rapid Duro 3 before it got dull to a point where I considered it truly dull.
I could have taken the loop to my local Stihl dealer, but I wanted to be able to sharpen it myself.
I considered filing the chain, but that would have been a lengthy endeavor with a truly dull carbide chain.
I purchased a dremel type straight shaft grinder off eBay, and separately a set of diamond burs. With this setup I managed to get my carbide chain to "working condition" a couple times, but the cutters didn't keep their edge for long as the factory grind did.
Me liking self feeding sharp chains I shelved the chain for years untill I purchased a dedicated chain grinder this year. I also purchased an AM diamond grinding wheel and finaly ground my Stihl Rapid Duro 3 chain and the curters look good - although I have yet to give the freshly ground chain a try.
I may manage to try the chain this week, I will report back if I do.
The dremel type grinder, it was about 25$ off eBay.
My recently purchased chain grinder, AMA MAXX (take note, not a diamond wheel on it in the picture)
At 20$ per loop and 7 loops at hand I would look into finding a way to sharpen my own carbide chains!
Also, please take note that although a carbide chain will resist wear against dirt and sand, it will chip and deteriorate excessively hitting stones and other foreign objects (nails, wire, screws, bolts,...).
In general I find it easier to sharpen a severely damaged "steel" chain than a carbide tipped one.
If Your carbide chains are Stihl Rapid/Picco Duro 3 ones they are worth bringing back to working condition!
Cheers
Hello Philbert
Apologies for not having more extensive info to share.
I haven't utilized my carbide chains for a couple years, but I am anxious to resume their usage.
