Chain cleaning

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Are you grinding your chain? If so then yes. I use purple power and water.
 
Never cleaned any besides a chain made for racing. I used brake parts cleaner and air hose. Then sprayed with wd 40 or something like that when I put it up.
 
Is chain cleaning necessary? If so, how and with what?
I've found a clean chain cuts a lot better than one that's all gummed up with resin. Also it is good to start with a clean chain before sharpening so you don't gunk up your sharpening tool. A soak in hot water and some degreaser and a lot of scrubbing with a stiff brush gets rid of most of the gunk. Petroleum solvents are not really necessary for removing sap. Blow out the water with compressed air while the chain is still hot, let dry a few minutes, and spray with WD40 or something similar. Good to go!
 
Thanks for the responses. I remember my Dad soaking his in gas....I'll probably stay away from that. But he also cut "lighter pine/rich lighter" with it too.
 
Lot of guys on this site will make fun of you for even asking this question. I like to clean chains prior to sharpening or repair IF they are gunked up.

Posted my rationale and method in this thread (sorry, the photos were deleted and I need to rebuild that thread):

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/

Basically swish the chains for several seconds in a sodium hydroxide based degreaser such as 'Super Clean' or similar (check the label - not all 'purple' cleaners are the same).

Rinse in water. Hit any stubborn areas with an old toothbrush. Repeat if needed.

Dry on old cookie sheet or baking pan in 150*F oven for 15 minutes to remove any moisture.

Re-lube with WD-40 after sharpening or repairing.

Philbert
 
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I've rescued lots of old chains my grandad (a lumberjack and sawmill operator) used to use. He left some piled up in buckets and I removed the top layer of rusted ones, then cleaned the rest in mineral spirits. I used an old toothbrush to get at them good. Mineral spirits work great for this and you'll find this recommended other places around the net and by ol' timers.
 
I am pretty much in agreement with Philbert except rather than dunk in the purple cleaner I'll put on newspaper, spray both sides then hit quickly with a brush. Afterwards a cleansing in as hot a water as you have with Dawn detergent. Once you take out of the water they dry quickly since they are warm.

Then I'll grind and give a shot of WD-40 or whatever spray oil is handy.
 
Can of degreaser and old toothbrush .... give it few minutes and hose it off ... dry with compressed air and leave in the sun for hour or so
 
I just bought a ultrasonic 2.5 liter cleaner from Horrible Freight. It has a built in heater too. After seeing how it cleans the carbon off cylinders, degreasing chains with simple green should work very well. Since they are hot when you take them out, they will dry very quickly too.
 
I use "Gunwash" (for paint guns) in an old paint sprayer.. degreases well, and it's pretty economical since most of the blast is from the air.. doesn't get the pitch off them very well but sure works on the gummed up chain lube nicely
 
I normally sharpen as is, though I've yet to see a chain gummed up with resin. I'd guess we don't have the type of wood that would do that.

I'm sure cleaning g would be better for the grinder, but I don't have all day to sharpen chains. Often end up doing it while calling voicemails back or while on lunch "break".

If the chain is real nasty, I wipe with a rag. My chains dont get bad, but some customer chains... holy smokes!... almist want to charge extra!
Did a few not long ago that were caked in old engine oil, silt and rust to the point you couldn't see the actual teeth. Called to try and sell new chains, as they were shot. Nope... sharpen.
Did what I could, doubt they will cut well, many of the teeth were broken and the rest were tiny slivers.
 
When they get really bad I use commercial grade engine degreaser ... gives some a new lease of life
 
My chains dont get bad, but some customer chains... holy smokes!...
If it is your own chain, you pretty much know what is going on. When it is someone else's, it is hard to know. I also scrounge/salvage/save chains, so I run into 'surprises', including rust, hidden damage, and improvised repairs: tie straps upside down; inside out; different brands or models of chain components mixed; things barely hanging on; . . . .

Philbert

P2203521.jpg
Upside down tie strap, mixed components, . . .

P2203523.jpg

Mixed components, tie strap barely hanging on . . .

More examples: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/
 
All chains coming into my shop go through my media blaster , either corn cob or walnut shell as the agent, before being sharpened- if a nasty shows up it goes for a soak in the parts cleaner after the blaster that mostly gets all the links free again. Might have to work a couple here and there.
 
All chains coming into my shop go through my media blaster , either corn cob or walnut shell as the agent, before being sharpened- if a nasty shows up it goes for a soak in the parts cleaner after the blaster that mostly gets all the links free again. Might have to work a couple here and there.
Wow, that's a lot of extra time! Is it worth it?
 
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