Chain melting plastic guide bumpers?

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If the bar is mounted properly (not being skewed by the tensioning tab not in the bar hole) and the chain tension right, the chain should be easy to pull along the bar and NOTHING should be rubbing on the chain.
 
Spend today bucking 2 of the 3 Norfolk Island Pines.

Attached 1 photo of the teeth after filing using the 7/32" file (and guide) in the Oregon filing kit
Attached 1 photo of one of rakers after filing.
Attached a video uploaded to youtube of 4 bucking cuts made today directly after sharpening & filing. video shows chain tension (tight but not too tight), video also shows the saw bog down on the last cut...
not sure why it bogged down, fuel & oil tanks were filled just before starting the video.

today I finally finished off the very first gallon of the 50:1 premix fuel i bought from the dealer and the quart of Stihl bar & chain oil, so that should give you an idea of how new the saw is.
ignore the lack of paint around the edge of the bar, that's just a bi-product of me trying to get rid of all the pine sap on the bar.. see all the brown-ish discoloration on the bar? that's all residual pine sap i still am trying to clean off...

this is how the saw performed today:

 

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Great that you got to use it today. Thanks for some images, but, They are just not where we are wanting to see.

If you put the chainsaw on the table and just pull off the clutch cover leaving the bar and chain on. Snap picture of the sprocket and just in front of the felling spikes we can get a view.

Then image of the sprocket no chain. The bar tails to see the width of the grove.

Does not seem like it is effecting cutting as the chain might have already indexed what it needs for clearance. But a new chainsaw should not have that much wear. Not sure you chain is adjusted tight enough that the chain is moving at the bar tail allowing it to remove some nylon material. Are you lifting the bar tip up when you tighten the bar nuts?
 
Spend today bucking 2 of the 3 Norfolk Island Pines.

Attached 1 photo of the teeth after filing using the 7/32" file (and guide) in the Oregon filing kit
Attached 1 photo of one of rakers after filing.
Attached a video uploaded to youtube of 4 bucking cuts made today directly after sharpening & filing. video shows chain tension (tight but not too tight), video also shows the saw bog down on the last cut...
not sure why it bogged down, fuel & oil tanks were filled just before starting the video.

today I finally finished off the very first gallon of the 50:1 premix fuel i bought from the dealer and the quart of Stihl bar & chain oil, so that should give you an idea of how new the saw is.
ignore the lack of paint around the edge of the bar, that's just a bi-product of me trying to get rid of all the pine sap on the bar.. see all the brown-ish discoloration on the bar? that's all residual pine sap i still am trying to clean off...

this is how the saw performed today:


That chain is loose, in th video I see the bottom of the chain sucks up to the bar .
 
Id suggest that you drop your file hand 5° to get a faster cut in pine.
I've cut some pretty sappy loblolly pine and it sticks like glue ,builds up in the bar rails and clutch cover. In the spring I'll switch to skip tooth when the sap is really flowing, thats helped me.
 
the day i made the original post after loosening the two main nuts that hold the chain sprocket cover on i noticed the chain feltstuck and required some hand grease to unstick.
upon taking the chain sprocket cover completely off that was when I noticed those melted grooves in the plastic bumpers.
before working yesterday I sanded down the melted grooves in those bumbers.

Great that you got to use it today. Thanks for some images, but, They are just not where we are wanting to see.

If you put the chainsaw on the table and just pull off the clutch cover leaving the bar and chain on. Snap picture of the sprocket and just in front of the felling spikes we can get a view.

Then image of the sprocket no chain. The bar tails to see the width of the grove.

Does not seem like it is effecting cutting as the chain might have already indexed what it needs for clearance. But a new chainsaw should not have that much wear. Not sure you chain is adjusted tight enough that the chain is moving at the bar tail allowing it to remove some nylon material. Are you lifting the bar tip up when you tighten the bar nuts?
the chain sprocket cover nuts are gently loosened, the bar tip is lifted upwards when tightening the tension screw, and once tension is as i want it the chain sprocket cover nuts are gently tightened again.
will take & post the other requested photos today.

That chain is loose, in th video I see the bottom of the chain sucks up to the bar .
yeah, the chain was a little more loose than I normally set it, experimenting.
 
to answer a few questions I missed:
I am the original owner, saw is 2 months old.
The bar is the original 25" bar, the chain that came with it was the stock (green) chain.
Went to the dealer and got a full chisel (yellow) replacement chain, 33 RS 84.

My only major frustration right now is the saw goes dull fast when doing quarter sawing to to make firewood... I keep the saw out of the dirt...
I read that i should possibly switch back to the green chain.
 

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also noticed while doing quarter sawing if i cut from one face the chips are now saw dust, or if i cut from another face the chips are strands. I presume this is normal and related to cutting with/against/across the grain but i haven't definitively found the reason for this yet.
 

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to answer a few questions I missed:
I am the original owner, saw is 2 months old.
The bar is the original 25" bar, the chain that came with it was the stock (green) chain.
Went to the dealer and got a full chisel (yellow) replacement chain, 33 RS 84.

My only major frustration right now is the saw goes dull fast when doing quarter sawing to to make firewood... I keep the saw out of the dirt...
I read that i should possibly switch back to the green chain.
So many think that green is semi chisel and yellow is chisel. Green has extra bumpers for less kickback potential. Yellow has only a single depth gauge per cutter and is considered “Pro” chain.

If it won’t stay sharp, going to a green chain with the same cutter isn’t going to help you out. You have RS, rapid super chain. It’s a full chisel. If you look at the cutters from the front they are shaped like a 7 with a working corner. You would want to switch to semi chisel, or RM. The cutters are shaped like a ? with no corner to dull and will last longer, but won’t cut as fast as RS
 
Is the wood dirty, or did it ever get drug through the dirt or sand?

If so, cut so that the dirty edge is towards you, not away from you, and the sand and dirt from the outside of the log is being immediately flung away. Don't drag dirt/sand through the entire kerf, in contact with the cutters.
 
also noticed while doing quarter sawing if i cut from one face the chips are now saw dust, or if i cut from another face the chips are strands. I presume this is normal and related to cutting with/against/across the grain but i haven't definitively found the reason for this yet.
Your presumptions are correct...
When you buck a log (making rings) you are cross cutting the grain & if your chain is sharpened correctly you will make chips.
If you lay your rounds down flat & cut them in half you will be cutting end grain & will likely make dust as the chain should be sharpened with more hook & lower rakers for this.
If you keep your rounds standing & cut them in half at 90° to your bucking cut you will be cutting with the grain, otherwise known as "noodling" due to the long strands of material that are removed. Ideally that requires a chain sharpened with less hook, higher rakers & better chip clearance to help prevent the saw from getting bogged down & bound up.
Noodling is generally the preference as it is quicker & easier, you just need to control your feed rate & lift out of the cut every so often to allow the noodles to clear
 
@effigy ,
If you get pine sap ,or ,any other type of sap giving you problems to clean off … use rubbing alcohol (90+% ) .
Cuts right though it . Even old dry sap . And, it doesn’t attack paint ,or plastic.
thanks for the isopropyl alcohol tip, this is helping a lot
So many think that green is semi chisel and yellow is chisel. Green has extra bumpers for less kickback potential. Yellow has only a single depth gauge per cutter and is considered “Pro” chain.

If it won’t stay sharp, going to a green chain with the same cutter isn’t going to help you out. You have RS, rapid super chain. It’s a full chisel. If you look at the cutters from the front they are shaped like a 7 with a working corner. You would want to switch to semi chisel, or RM. The cutters are shaped like a ? with no corner to dull and will last longer, but won’t cut as fast as RS
yeah... wasn't sure what the chain type/specs are of the chain that came with it, all i know is what the dealer told me and that was it's the green chain and reduces kickback.
yes, im pretty certain (95%) im sharpening correctly, i use the proper size file, snapped into the guide, at the proper angle, and can feel in my hand the file smoothly glide when the tooth is sharpened good and feel in my hand the file feeling rough on a tooth that just isn't right, and a few strokes later the file slides smoothly.

Is the wood dirty, or did it ever get drug through the dirt or sand?

If so, cut so that the dirty edge is towards you, not away from you, and the sand and dirt from the outside of the log is being immediately flung away. Don't drag dirt/sand through the entire kerf, in contact with the cutters.
the logs were dropped maybe a week ago and have been laying on the ground.
I try to brush/wipe the bark before cutting with the glove that i am wearing.
 

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