Chain recommendation for around the farm

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Is that suppose to be helpful, for someone trying to learn to hand file?
:crazy2:

Yes it is, what it tell you is that a new of the roll chain is the bare minimum of what is required to cut. With that said it’s always fun watching some guys push on a saw vs having a self feeding chain if a chain is done right you should have to pull back slightly the first few cuts of the day.


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Yes it is, what it tell you is that a new of the roll chain is the bare minimum of what is required to cut. With that said it’s always fun watching some guys push on a saw vs having a self feeding chain if a chain is done right you should have to pull back slightly the first few cuts of the day.


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Perhaps you need to buy a good chain. New chains that I have used self feed just fine, as well as my hand filed sharpened chains.
 
Perhaps you need to buy a good chain. New chains that I have used self feed just fine, as well as my hand filed sharpened chains.

I fall timber for a living a new chain is slow as snot all the chain I run is full comp 3/8’s square chain a brand new chain needs the rakers dropped to self feed correctly.


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I fall timber for a living a new chain is slow as snot all the chain I run is full comp 3/8’s square chain a brand new chain needs the rakers dropped to self feed correctly.


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Someone first learning to hand file can live with a little less perfection then you. Thanks for the input.
 
The brand is not that critical. Stay with full comp 3/8. Don't even consider a "green" chain. Do yourself a favor and pitch the grinders, in lieu of hand sharpening. Your chains will last longer.
 
There's LOTS of hand filing videos on line and yes on don't sweat getting it perfect the first couple of times, thats what old chains are for.
I've been honing my sharpening skills for 6+ years now and I think it always need a tweak here and there, but manufacturers make changes as time goes by also and wood changes from job to job. Practice and relax because nobody's handing out trophies and skittles for sharp chains ,they just wotk better.
 
I fall timber for a living a new chain is slow as snot all the chain I run is full comp 3/8’s square chain a brand new chain needs the rakers dropped to self feed correctly.


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I've got some old Oregon. 050 .404 thats already 30 down on the rakers and sharp enough to cut you if you drop it on the back of your hand! ( Ask me how I know?)
Not all chains are sh¡t off the roll but quite a few can be made better.
 
Planning to get 2 loops of 20" versacut (SC, 050, 3/8) and the matching Oregon bar. $75 for all. Talk me off the ledge if I am way off base.

Like I said earlier, the mechanics of a grinder approached sharpening seems wrong as the grinder wheel strikes the top of the cutter and then cuts down and perpendicular. Filing seems better if the file cuts the underside of the cutter up towards the tip. Also seems like there would be a slight advantage to filing/grinding into the cutting edge and pulling the waist away versus cutting the waste and pulling it out at the tip of the cutting edge.
 
Planning to get 2 loops of 20" versacut (SC, 050, 3/8) and the matching Oregon bar. $75 for all. Talk me off the ledge if I am way off base.

Like I said earlier, the mechanics of a grinder approached sharpening seems wrong as the grinder wheel strikes the top of the cutter and then cuts down and perpendicular. Filing seems better if the file cuts the underside of the cutter up towards the tip. Also seems like there would be a slight advantage to filing/grinding into the cutting edge and pulling the waist away versus cutting the waste and pulling it out at the tip of the cutting edge.
Your understanding of a grinder is off. But it don't matter. Learn to hand file. IMO grinders are for recovery of a rocked chain. Since chains are not all that expensive, better to toss such a chain. Of course if some one can't control their saw and touches ground regularly, maybe they should buy their firewood, or find a new career.
 
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