Chain sharpening tools. Are they all gimmicks?

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Westwood

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No matter how many videos I watch or things I read online, I suck at this. I use the file and the little tool with the rollers on it. Its fine for a few logs, then it stops cutting well. I'll sharpen, works for a little bit, then starts curving to a side. Trim down the rakers(?) and works for a little while then I need to sharpen again. I figure I just need a bit more practice with it. Just bucking up some hard wood with a Husky 450. Not hitting dirt or anything. Have the logs pinched in the backhoe thumb off the ground.

There's a million tools available to do this. Are they all pretty much gimmicks? Is a round file going to be the best at this? Or are there actually a kit that makes this better?

Thanks.
 
Some tools work better for others. Are you using a guide for the rakers? I have trouble keeping a parallel stroke every time with the roller guides. I’ve used the grandberg style with good success. and yes chains don’t stay sharp forever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Personally, I consider most all to be gimmicks- a simple handheld round file for the cutters, flat file for the rakers- but that is what works for me and I have made a tonne of blunt files and toothless chains in my time!
Others will swear by gimmick X or gimmick Y- because they have found a tool that works for them- and that is the thing, finding something you have faith in, that works well for you and gives you the results you need.

Practice and muscle memory is all it comes down to really, that and good files and good chains. You have to blunten plenty of files and file away plenty of chain teeth before you become proficient at it without a gimmick.
 
My dad sharpened free hand so me and my brother were taught how to sharpen free hand, I never understood the gimmicks. Of course, now I have a grinder so I just use that but if I didn't have it I'd still use the free hand method. If possible, I'll clamp the bar in a vise and set the chain brake while I sharpen the chain, like I've shown below. The black sharpie mark is how far out I can sharpen the teeth before the bar will begin vibrating to the point that filing accurately is nearly impossible.
IMG_4854.jpeg
 
No matter how many videos I watch or things I read online, I suck at this. I use the file and the little tool with the rollers on it. Its fine for a few logs, then it stops cutting well. I'll sharpen, works for a little bit, then starts curving to a side. Trim down the rakers(?) and works for a little while then I need to sharpen again. I figure I just need a bit more practice with it. Just bucking up some hard wood with a Husky 450. Not hitting dirt or anything. Have the logs pinched in the backhoe thumb off the ground.

There's a million tools available to do this. Are they all pretty much gimmicks? Is a round file going to be the best at this? Or are there actually a kit that makes this better?

Thanks.
Put up some of the chains after you have sharpened them.
 
Some tools work better for others. Are you using a guide for the rakers? I have trouble keeping a parallel stroke every time with the roller guides. I’ve used the grandberg style with good success. and yes chains don’t stay sharp forever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I do have that bar that sits on top to guide the flat file.
Personally, I consider most all to be gimmicks- a simple handheld round file for the cutters, flat file for the rakers- but that is what works for me and I have made a tonne of blunt files and toothless chains in my time!
Others will swear by gimmick X or gimmick Y- because they have found a tool that works for them- and that is the thing, finding something you have faith in, that works well for you and gives you the results you need.

Practice and muscle memory is all it comes down to really, that and good files and good chains. You have to blunten plenty of files and file away plenty of chain teeth before you become proficient at it without a gimmick.
I do think I just need more practice.
Put up some of the chains after you have sharpened them.
As in, pictures you mean? I'll try to remember that next time.
 
Off the cuff- I imagine too deep into the gullets and missing the top of the top plates- plus bias towards your strong side filing is all it is.
Most will file more accurately on one side of the chain- which side depends on if you are right or correct handed. ;)
 
Off the cuff- I imagine too deep into the gullets and missing the top of the top plates- plus bias towards your strong side filing is all it is.
Most will file more accurately on one side of the chain- which side depends on if you are right or correct handed. ;)
haha, I've been trying to work on this. Its been getting better. At first, all my cuts were C's. I ended up three strokes on one side, and five on the opposite to make up for it. Its gotten better. But still, it needs work.
 
haha, I've been trying to work on this. Its been getting better. At first, all my cuts were C's. I ended up three strokes on one side, and five on the opposite to make up for it. Its gotten better. But still, it needs work.

I did that for years early on- a stoke, sometimes two on the weak side extra- it works!
The other thing I did early on was to touch up the cutters after every tank of fuel- BEFORE the teeth get real dull, just a swipe or two. Keeps the profile before you loose the top plate edge and helps form the muscle memory.
Slows up your cutting some, but you learn a lot while doing it and spot other issues like chain tension, worn drive sprockets, bar burrs etc.
 
So yea, ultimately a round file by hand is going to be the nominal approach then.
 
YEP! you can buy a whole pile of quality brand new files for the price of any gimmick out there. Even if you wind up with a grinder eventually it is good for your mind to learn to hand file first.

One more thing, when I hear "holding logs off the ground with the backhoe" is good, they arent in the dirt but also were they dragged through the dirt previously. I have dulled more than one fresh sharpend chain with some dirty azz gritty bark wood. and chisel gets dull fast.
 
I've tried pretty much every guide available. Also had a grinder for a while but got rid of it because it would never sharpen as well as files will (not for me anyway). After I finally got good at filing freehand, I got a Two-in-one file tool and I use it all the time. Stihl or Pferd sell them, about $40 each. It's 2-in-1 because a flat file takes down your rakers while you round file the tooth. Make sure you get the right size for your chain. Anyone can sharpen very well with that thing.
 
Grinders are great if you seriously rock a chain. That is IF you chose to repair the thing. I rock a chain about once a year. Last year I hit a big arse piece of metal deeply embedded in an old growth pine. I repaired the chain with a file. Afterwards, I said, not again. It took me an hour or two. Not fun.
 
Grinders are great if you seriously rock a chain. That is IF you chose to repair the thing. I rock a chain about once a year. Last year I hit a big arse piece of metal deeply embedded in an old growth pine. I repaired the chain with a file. Afterwards, I said, not again. It took me an hour or two. Not fun.
I bought a grinder because I was told, "Hey, you're gonna be milling out some beams the day after tomorrow." So, I bought a grinder and whipped up 5 milling chains out of 5 badly rocked chains.
 
So for whatever reason, my phone just was not having pictures of the chain. I spent a solid 5m dicking around with the thing trying to get it to focus, and it just would not do it. It was getting dark and I needed to start working.

Resharpened again, same deal. Cut for a log length, then dull up. It then curves BAD. Its almost a "J". I then sharpened only one side to see if that did anything with the curve, not really. The saw is almost sideways by the time I get through it.

So, fresh start. Ordered a new bar, Husky X-chain(?), a box of new files, and a flat file. I can't recall the last time I changed the bar on it, so maybe that is something. I do flip it around every now and then.

I figure its just a skill to learn, using the files. Just need to work on it a bit. I figure all these new, best way to sharpen your chain ads are sort of BS.

I'll just practice more. Thanks all.
 
So for whatever reason, my phone just was not having pictures of the chain. I spent a solid 5m dicking around with the thing trying to get it to focus, and it just would not do it. It was getting dark and I needed to start working.

Resharpened again, same deal. Cut for a log length, then dull up. It then curves BAD. Its almost a "J". I then sharpened only one side to see if that did anything with the curve, not really. The saw is almost sideways by the time I get through it.

So, fresh start. Ordered a new bar, Husky X-chain(?), a box of new files, and a flat file. I can't recall the last time I changed the bar on it, so maybe that is something. I do flip it around every now and then.

I figure its just a skill to learn, using the files. Just need to work on it a bit. I figure all these new, best way to sharpen your chain ads are sort of BS.

I'll just practice more. Thanks all.

I have a neighbor that can't sharpen for sheit. He has several nails on a board with 30 to 40 chains hanging off each. They are all dull as sheit and almost brand new (I.e. used once). I was up visiting and reprofiled with my double-bevel file one of his chains to a square filed chain. It now cuts like new. Now he wants to buy a double-bevel from me. Point is he has no idea what he is doing, and I can't teach him a thing either.

In the Marine Corps, when we were struggling, and said we were trying, we were told to try harder. Get it?
 

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