Chain sharpening. What's your favorite method?

[thomasinvancouver]

Who ever said that is full of bs. Steve

I think it’s easy to cook it with a grinder. Overheating tends to weaken the steal. I guess it’s possible with a hand file, but I don’t think it’s likely.

 

[Wood Doctor]

That's because only one side gets rocked, so only one side needs to be aggressively filed.

And, the logger usually is stronger with one arm than he is with the other. Many times they file with the blade over their shoulder, switching shoulders and arms as they move from the right cutters to the left.

 

[Philbert]

Most common and worst problem I have run into with file-sharpened chains that loggers give me is that one side is always sharpened more than the other. The right-side cutters are never the same size as the left.

So you put those on your grinder and 'de-file' them?

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

I think it’s easy to cook it with a grinder.

Yeah, it's easy to over heat cutters if you don't use a grinder correctly. Lots of threads here on that here. Easy to do a lot of things wrong with a chainsaw too: we try to avoid those things.

Many times they file with the blade over their shoulder, switching shoulders and arms as they move from the right cutters to the left.

I call that the 'Symphony String Bass' method of sharpening! Seen guys do that: whatever works for them!



Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

So you put those on your grinder and 'de-file' them?

Philbert

Not really 'de-file' them. I try to save them if I can by evening up the length of the cutters. Not an easy task because so many are not the same length on either side. Then you have to deal with the height of the rakers (depth gauges). In short, Philbert, it's a mess.

 

[LeGrow02]

Round file by hand and a flat file for the rakers is all I've ever done and will remain doing . I have a couple Oregon electric sharpeners but I only use them to get bad chains back to life and to make ripping chains


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[Den]

The Swedish roller guide is the answer to my lifetime of filing woes.
I have a HF grinder that works okay. I also have access to Silvey grinders in both round and square chisel.

I still choose the roller guide over everything else.

I think I'll be trying a Husqvarna roller guide as well. Been looking at those, and maybe a Stihl stump vise also. The roller guide seems like less guess work and time spent eyeballing. The roller gauges are not very expensive, so I'll try one.

So far I've been cutting pretty heavily for a few days at my Pastor's place. Lot's of big, dead, red oak and white oak. Hand filing 3/8 and .325 chain with Oregon round files and guides, and an Oregon raker gauge. I'm very happy with the results.
Using the CS670 Echo that I put a top end on, as well as a CS4400, and a modded Husqvarna 55. All three saws are a fantastic to run.
The CS670 really powers through the big trunks. The CS4400 is the sleeper though... surprisingly powerful and lots of torque even with the bar buried.




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[Oldtoolsnewproblems]

The granberg file jig let's you cut almost as fast as a grinder, and from what I've read on here it sounds like it will be as sharp or sharper than chain done with a grinder. Also you can take it in the field with you.
I'm a noob, probably cut 5 cord in my life, but the granberg made my chain twice as sharp as when I was carefully doing it with a freehand guide

 

[trains]

I think I'll be trying a Husqvarna roller guide as well. Been looking at those, and maybe a Stihl stump vise also. The roller guide seems like less guess work and time spent eyeballing. The roller gauges are not very expensive, so I'll try one.

So far I've been cutting pretty heavily for a few days at my Pastor's place. Lot's of big, dead, red oak and white oak. Hand filing 3/8 and .325 chain with Oregon round files and guides, and an Oregon raker gauge. I'm very happy with the results.
Using the CS670 Echo that I put a top end on, as well as a CS4400, and a modded Husqvarna 55. All three saws are a fantastic to run.
The CS670 really powers through the big trunks. The CS4400 is the sleeper though... surprisingly powerful and lots of torque even with the bar buried.




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The husky roller guide is good, and I find it works well on carlton chain quite well too, unless the guide is a bit used and worn, it wont fit that well over the tie straps of the stihl chain.

stump vice is handy too.

pic of roller guide before sharpening a new to me chain.

 

[Den]

I decided against the Husqvarna roller device for sharpening... or any other roller devices from any manufacturer.
The only way to achieve an affordable, precise, consistent, high quality sharpening result is to utilize bar mounted jigs. (Can't afford fancy electric bench mounted machinery).
The Granberg jig is what I'll most likely purchase.
Oregon makes a bar mounted jig, Stihl made two bar mounted jigs (one of which is the FG2), and Leevalley.com makes a bar mounted jig, as well as a very nice looking bar mounted hand crank sharpener.


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[sundance]

I decided against the Husqvarna roller device for sharpening... or any other roller devices from any manufacturer.
The only way to achieve an affordable, precise, consistent, high quality sharpening result is to utilize bar mounted jigs. (Can't afford fancy electric bench mounted machinery).
The Granberg jig is what I'll most likely purchase.
Oregon makes a bar mounted jig, Stihl made two bar mounted jigs (one of which is the FG2), and Leevalley.com makes a bar mounted jig, as well as a very nice looking bar mounted hand crank sharpener.

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The Leevalley bar mounted jig is the Granberg. The hand crank is Timberlink. The cost of the carbide burrs spooked me off. Easily damaged and then shot. The Stihl FG2 is not available in the states (and costs in the ballpark of $200). Nice tool however. Use mine when I'm sharpening chains off the saw.

Both probably cheaper at other sites.
I've been using and a fan of the Granberg for several years. Tecomec makes some nice looking ones as well. Have two but have not used (yet).
Good luck.

 

[Philbert]

Dozens of versions available!

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/
Philbert

 

[Piotr Pakula]

I skip the file as often as possible.I prefer the cheapest grinder for large discs

 

[Volund]

I sharpen my chain once before my annual wood harvesting, as long as I dont hit anything or is diliberately digging the dirt it stays sharp enough till my firewood is done.
I allways use two saws though...

 

[Volund]

Thats 4 to 5 qubic meters of firewood, not that it tells you anything but its a year of firewood - and I dont use electric heating other than cables in the floor downstairs.

 

[teacherman]

Myself, I always used a round handheld file, and occasionally took a flat file to the raker's. Never really felt like I was getting the optimum performance from the chain. It would be nice to have a more precise method.
I'd been thinking about getting an electric chain grinder, or maybe one of those jigs to set up on the guide bar. An attempt to get a more accurate end result.
What's your favorite method in-the-field, or at home on the work bench? Pics would be welcomed.
There's a guy on youtube called "Farmcraft101", No nonsense guide to chainsaw sharpening. Seems pretty good.

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I have had good success with the Stihl 2 in 1 file holder. I can easily get OK results that are consistent and serviceable. I am not a race saw person, and using older Stihl saws, I'm pleased with the reliable performance. I know the other brand is way faster...

 

[Volund]

I have had good success with the Stihl 2 in 1 file holder. I can easily get OK results that are consistent and serviceable. I am not a race saw person, and using older Stihl saws, I'm pleased with the reliable performance. I know the other brand is way faster...

Naah, they all work pretty hard to be best in class... and to convince you to give them all the money in your wallet while at it.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Thats 4 to 5 qubic meters of firewood, not that it tells you anything but its a year of firewood - and I dont use electric heating other than cables in the floor downstairs.

I use on average about 400 CF of wood a year. I sell wood for a living so I burn the junk left over. Even when it is near freezing wood is burning with the doors open. Thanks

 

[Den]

I ordered the Granberg Jig the other day. Hoping it will serve me well for many years to come. I'll also look at the Tecomec items... maybe there will be something interesting with them as well.




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