Chainsaw chains

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tradosaurus

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Nov 2, 2021
Messages
7
Reaction score
9
Location
Texas
I have three Echo chainsaws; two are fairly new (CS-490) and one I bought off a friend that's probably 10 yrs old. All three work fine.

However, I 'm wondering how often you should replace chains?

I use a Stihl chain sharpener after each use of the chainsaw. Two of the saws weren't cutting that great (after I sharpened them) and the chains were about a year old. I do hit dirt on occasion since I'm felling trees and try to get the stump down low.

I had two new chains so replaced the two that weren't cutting well.

I'm wondering if I my sharpening skills need improving or chains just need replacing?
 
I get a year out of a chain. I like to start a new chain at the start of the years cutting time. Only time I have had to replace a chain early is if it gets really badly rocked. Other times is when the cutters start breaking off cause they have been filed so many times.
 


I guess I will be using a file instead of the Stihl sharpener.


Use what works for you. I had to use a bench mounted electric grinder for a few years. Then out cutting I had to sharpen with a file, and suddenly, it worked. I knew what I was doing, at least enough to sell the grinder. I now hand file faster and better then the grinder, unless I hit a buried nail in a tree and really munge up the cutters. Then it is toss the chain or spend a lot of time recovering the chain.
 
You should be able to keep a chain cutting well all the way back to the witness marks or when cutters start breaking off.
Post up some nice clear close up pics of your chains & you should get some pretty specific advice
 
I wish I had viewed this video last spring. It definitely would have helped my sharpening bigly!

I'm fighting very dirty Mugo Mugo root balls (yep-I'm cutting below ground level) so I can pull them out by hand. Even when cutting above ground, the wood dulls the chain in minutes. The top side of the cutter is rounded off so much than even 20 cutting strokes doesn't give me a flat top plate. (For those of you who want to burn me, this is an after-retirement hobby, *I* want to remove the roots, and my tiny Husky and three chains has done so. Chains and bars are cheap, and the powerhead is working fantastic.)

Lucky for me, I'm at the last, small piece of root, and I'll be done. Next year and beyond, when I cut normal branches, I'll use my new Oregon chain. It'll be like butter!
 
The Sthil 2in1 hand sharpener makes the job really fool proof and very simple, when my chains get really dull and in bad shape from hitting dirt or sand, my Stihl dealer has a really good machine that does a great job if i take chain off saw it's just $6 dollars.
 
I have three Echo chainsaws; two are fairly new (CS-490) and one I bought off a friend that's probably 10 yrs old. All three work fine.

However, I 'm wondering how often you should replace chains?

I use a Stihl chain sharpener after each use of the chainsaw. Two of the saws weren't cutting that great (after I sharpened them) and the chains were about a year old. I do hit dirt on occasion since I'm felling trees and try to get the stump down low.

I had two new chains so replaced the two that weren't cutting well.

I'm wondering if I my sharpening skills need improving or chains just need replacing?
I have worked on saws for 30 yrs.....and learn everyday from this forum. I'm not alone in my hobby. In My Honest Opinion : ECHO's are great saws. The 490 runs right up there with a Stihl MS250 or Husqvarna 455. they have been on the market for over 10 yrs.... as is your 3rd machine. What is it?

Sharpening chains isn't rocket science, but it is more common these days, with Woodsman. Chains (and files) have increased in quality, and the homeowner wants the best, once.
Free-hand grinding is useless. Its the fastest, easiest way, to mess up a perfectly serviceable chain. Serviceable meaning 6 - 8 filings / 2-3 yrs. before discard. No disrespect to the Dremel and its $10 stones..........if your Stihl gizmo is electric.......

Once a couple of teeth are mis-ground, and the "green" safety rakers not shortened in a jig......the chain is great for that digging in the garden you admit to. HA! The local mower shops all charge 5 - 7bucks....I suppose that will explode on this forum.

Again, this is all just my thoughts. Perhaps you are hand filing, with one of those file holder things. Even if its the orange Stihl holder....Just put 1 of the old chains on the saw/bar, and practice. Spend a few hours learning your technique. Files wear down as fast as they are used......And certainly use/measure with a gauge. You may become just as good as lumberman who does so, at lunchtime.

Chains sell in 3 levels. For my money, Oregon makes a nice Full - Semi - Chisel chain.
The Archer chains are common now, and I have enjoyed their mid-level prices. ARCHER is from Australia.
The chinesium products, 8TENse, Farner ted, etc.....are only good for a day or 2 in the Woods, where you are working with your saws, all day. That frequency of chainsaw work justifies better chains, premuim fuel mix, tacky bar oil, and daily cleaning. If you want the best, this forum will provide the rest.
 
The two new chains I had in reserve are:

Oregon 20LPX078G PowerCut Saw Chain

Echo Genuine 20BPX78CQ 20" Chain


Looking at the two old chains I removed and after watching a few sharpening videos I can see that my sharpening skills need work. I wasn't applying pressure back at an angle in the tooth groove and instead pushing down.

All three of my chainsaws are Echo with 20" bar.

My method after using a chainsaw for more than 5 minutes is to remove cover to expose bar, blow out dirt in cover and saw with compressed air, assemble, tighten chain, sharpen chain, top off gas and oil for next time. I need to remember to clean air filter.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top