Chainsaw chains

[Captain Bruce]

We do the same thing now and also use a 32" Lopper.
Only time I hit dirt is when I'm cutting a stump down as low as I can go.

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Stumps are for backhoes, or , we simply blast.

 

[Husky77]

Learn to hand file when you get it you'll look back and wonder why you struggled. Any dirt is bad, stay away from it or al least clean it off the bark before you cut. A chain can stay sharp a long time or dull within seconds, it really is that easy. We all been there dont worry, any expert that hasnt is no expert! So get the right file size and watch the above videos, but remember..... even a sharp chain wont cut well if the rakers are not set right, dont be greedy just set them to the correct depth with a gauge.

 

[Captain Bruce]

What Husky 77 siad. ANY tool skill needs be preserved. When young men stop doing for themselves.........their need for tools follows.....

 

[thenne1713]

I have three Echo chainsaws; two are fairly new (CS-490) and one I bought off a friend that's probably 10 yrs old. All three work fine.

However, I 'm wondering how often you should replace chains?

I use a Stihl chain sharpener after each use of the chainsaw. Two of the saws weren't cutting that great (after I sharpened them) and the chains were about a year old. I do hit dirt on occasion since I'm felling trees and try to get the stump down low.

I had two new chains so replaced the two that weren't cutting well.

I'm wondering if I my sharpening skills need improving or chains just need replacing?

1) Touching dirt= INSTANT DULL; 2) chain cutters have cutter angle line on top, REPLACE when worn/ sharpened down to that line; 3) Replace drive sprockets 3rd chain; 4) relace bar when drive links drag on bottom of groove, or chain leans too much to cut straight.

 

[Howard Justice]

I guess I will be using a file instead of the Stihl sharpener.

Outstanding video and info!!! Thanks for sharing!! Sharing w our saw team!!

 

[bullittman281]

1) Touching dirt= INSTANT DULL; 2) chain cutters have cutter angle line on top, REPLACE when worn/ sharpened down to that line; 3) Replace drive sprockets 3rd chain; 4) replace bar when drive links drag on bottom of groove, or chain leans too much to cut straight.

This is good. I'll add that dressing/draw filling the bar rails flat is important. I'll junk a bar once the slot is too wide. I've never seen the rails get too short before something else kills a bar.

I stand alone on this but a good grinder and care is a chain's best friend. I have total disdain for filing chains and bring enough to the woods that I can change them out and grind them later. At work we use the Stihl USG. Big $$$$ and overkill. Actually I'm not all that impressed with them especially for the cost. At home somebody gave me an old Norther Tool Oregon clone. With care it works perfect. I can get all of the angles identical, the length of the cutters with in a few thousandths of each other on both sides, and all the depth gauges exactly the same. Whats not to like??? Its important the depth gauges are the correct height. I'd guess a lot of poor chain performance comes from ignoring them and they end up too tall. I use calipers to set the grinder up and check my work. with care I don't remove much material and don't burn the cutters. As mentioned above I grind chains all the way to the wear bars. The cutters, depth gauges, and bottom of the side plates all have wear bars on Stihl chain. Never a problem running them to the end and they cut fine even for the last grind. The only other thing I'll add is grinders are not really portable and files are cheap. I'll take the grinder.


Bullittman

 

[fields_mj]

Sounds like your depth gauges are getting too tall.