Chainsaw won't pull over

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Evan

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Fill crankcase full of fuel to flush bearings put. Can do this with cylinder off and rod held to center with rubber Bands while you spin it over. Flush and Repeat a fee times.
 

thenne1713

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So I bought a 2165 that essentially just needed some assembly. I put the top end on among various things and now have it all put together and went to pull the cord and it pulls very hard. Very very hard - too hard to start. Take the spark plug out and it's fine. Also took the muffler off. I put a cap full of pure two-stroke oil in the spark plug hole and it made it way worse. I very well may have put too much gasket maker on the case when I put the cylinder on (gasket delete) but I don't see why that would do this. I also may have not cleaned the rings groves very well and it may even need new rings. Who knows. With the hours I have in this chainsaw, the only thing I have accomplished is the discovery of a new way to carry a chainsaw.

Thank you much 👍
(Most) chainsaws, this complaint comes with assembly error and the flywheel key is not properly seated in the slot. Disassemble and inspect, inspect OIL PUMP while flywheel is off.
 

Old2stroke

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have you tried removing the starter and spinning the flywheel by hand with the plug in?
Yeah, this should be the first thing to do to shed some light on the problem, could just be the recoil starter is jamming up when a load is put of it. The crankcase sealant issue is a red herring, it would take a LOT of sealant to get into the crank and bearings and you would feel it with the plug out. Even a badly flooded engine isn't that much harder (if at all) to pull over. If it isn't the recoil, something in the rebuild process must have given it too much compression.
 
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A blast from the past.

Took 40 posts before this was found, and never heard from the OP about this again. Typical.

Understatement that got the thread moving...
could there be something I didn’t do right?


Yeah, everybody on this Forum is a skilled and trained chainsaw mechanic. The mysteries of engines, especially 2-stroke engines, runs strong on this site full of experts....

1670510249497.png
 

Homer6679

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Not familiar with the 2165, so I’m not sure if it is a mag case saw or not but did you center the crank when you put it together? Not sure if it was torn down that much. If the crank isn’t centered it will be harder to rotate
 

thenne1713

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Just went out and tried it. As you back the plug off it stays the same until the plug is nearly off and then it’s a little better. Pretty much stays the same until the last thread on the plug then it’s a little easier.
That is EXACT same symptom I had with flywheel not on key properly.
 

cookies

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A blast from the past.

Took 40 posts before this was found, and never heard from the OP about this again. Typical.

Understatement that got the thread moving...



Yeah, everybody on this Forum is a skilled and trained chainsaw mechanic. The mysteries of engines, especially 2-stroke engines, runs strong on this site full of experts....

View attachment 1038841
Its there to cushion the piston during break in ;) And that picture is the main reason I encourage using printer paper and copper cote as a base gasket in place of silicone/rtv/gasket maker. The average person does not know a 1/8 bead of sealant will spread out when smashed down to 3/8 wide and still have squished out excess.
Did the op's cylinder come with a decomp that is now plugged? At 15 you may lack the needed strength to pull over a non decomp higher compression saw, Could installing the piston backwards cause ring binding? I would be curious if a ring was hung.
 

Log

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It does not have a decomp that could be plugged - no decomp
The chainsaw was owned by a logger who was running it and then it was sent to a porter who sent it to me with the top end, clutch, recoil, coil, and carb off. Can't imagine the key was ever touched or even the flywheel.

Haha....I sure wonder how the heck I ever managed to cut 100+ cord on summer break with my husky 390 if I an't strong enough to pull over a chainsaw... sure a mystery
Not going to pursue that comment.

Heading out to try ur idea about dumping gas in the cylinder to clear up the oil.
Edit: I'll also take the recoil off and see about turning it by hand

Oh ya... I start a chainsaw something like this 1670549190387.png

Thank you 👍
 

Mr Excitement

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I had a Husky 66 that had a split in the recoil pulley and a short rope when I got it. It was very hard to pull over as the rope was binding inside the pulley. New pulley with the right length of rope and it's a different saw.
 

chanialogger

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Shot in the dark here, but a cracked roller bearing casing could cause this issue,since it would be able to rotate under no compression but then jam up when load is applied...
 

Patrick1903

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while you see I installed the "ground wire", don't know if it's even the right wire or done correctly so I don't really know if it works.
Why don’t you know which wire is the grounding wire and if you installed the grounding wire correctly? Maybe you should slow down and review an IPL and some images or diagrams of the parts. Go to the Beg for Manuals thread and get the documents for the saw.
No clue what it means but the porter said "the ears were cracked on the cylinder so I don't want to port it".
So the mounts on the base of the cylinder are cracked? How many? How bad are the cracks? Pictures?
 

Log

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While I suppose I may have been exaggerating a little. I do know it is the correct wire and I'm (pretty) sure I installed it correctly...I actually wasn't able to find any cracks although I didn't look very hard. He said it is probably fine just didn't want to port it.

YAY I got it to pull over last night. I took the cylinder and carb off and wiped all the oil off of everything and put it back on.. It pulled over fine - still hard but fine. Pulled it over a couple of times and the flywheel broke loose:dumb2:. Starting to hate myself for liking chainsaws haha.
What was happening is the saw pulled over extremely easily and was turning the flywheel (really fast) and not moving the piston. Is this a sheared key from pulling on it so hard? This gets into one of my many clueless ideas. Should I just tighten (as hard as I can by hand) the flywheel back on and call it good; or is that not good enough? Should I figure out how to take the flywheel off and check the key? Whatever you guys say

Thanks again 👍
 
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While I suppose I may have been exaggerating a little. I do know it is the correct wire and I'm (pretty) sure I installed it correctly...I actually wasn't able to find any cracks although I didn't look very hard. He said it is probably fine just didn't want to port it.

YAY I got it to pull over last night. I took the cylinder and carb off and wiped all the oil off of everything and put it back on.. It pulled over fine - still hard but fine. Pulled it over a couple of times and the flywheel broke loose:dumb2:. Starting to hate myself for liking chainsaws haha.
What was happening is the saw pulled over extremely easily and was turning the flywheel (really fast) and not moving the piston. Is this a sheared key from pulling on it so hard? This gets into one of my many clueless ideas. Should I just tighten (as hard as I can by hand) the flywheel back on and call it good; or is that not good enough? Should I figure out how to take the flywheel off and check the key? Whatever you guys say

Thanks again 👍

When you shear a key your timing is Phooked. You can tighten and get it to stay in place, but ONLY after you get it in exactly the right position. Some keys are replaceable, while some are cast in flywheel or apart of the crank. You're going to have to take it apart and see exactly what is going on. And pulling real hard did not break it. More likely it was loose and pulling it was able to break it. Pulling hard alone does not break a key.
 

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