I just received a 1998 Husqvarna 55 that I picked up on ebay. Discovered it has a scored piston, closed port cylinder looks to be salvageable. Can I use the same piston that an open port 55 would use or do I need something specific for a closed port. Thanks for any help you can offer, David
closed port husqvarna 55 piston?
- Thread starter david newbie
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
There was a lot of discussion about this in yrs past and going from my memory of those threads, the closed port piston will work in an open port cylinder, but not the other way around. Open port piston will not work in a closed port cylinder.. Someone will probably be along to confirm or deny. I do know that the closed port piston is available from The little red barn on ebay.
Closed port cylinder needs windowed piston.
Closed port needs the windowed cp piston. Make sure to confirm your cylinder bore because there are 44mm, 45mm and 46mm closed port top ends that will fit on a 50 series Husqvarna.
You can also open up/grind the lower transfers to make it bottom fed and use the non windowed piston, it's pretty easy if you're comfortable with a dremel or whatever.
There's a pic here on post #16 and more of them throughout the thread;
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/hard-time-finding-the-right-piston-husky55.249742/
Good to see you posting again @Roanoker494, been a while...
There's a pic here on post #16 and more of them throughout the thread;
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/hard-time-finding-the-right-piston-husky55.249742/
Good to see you posting again @Roanoker494, been a while...
Good lnfo from a lot of guys that haven't posted in a while! That's why we're here! 
I just went through this. LRB pop up piston resulted in squish or quench of 63/1000.
IME these saws do not like the infamous 22 thousandths we all read about, but the 63 was excessive.
Rather than grind out your cylinder, I'd trade you yours for my open port OEM.
If that'd work for you.
IME these saws do not like the infamous 22 thousandths we all read about, but the 63 was excessive.
Rather than grind out your cylinder, I'd trade you yours for my open port OEM.
If that'd work for you.
Visit the archives before you do, there are a few things to watch out for to prevent the meltdown of your new cylinder. There is a small seal between the cylinder and bulkhead that is known to leak air which will toast the piston in short order if not addressed. Vac-pressure test is a must!
Or go with the aftermarket piston available from Lil Red Barn?
Because I'm gonna need a cylinder AND piston, and I'm trying not not to spend too much on this saw( will try to sell on CL ), trading for a used cylinder wont help me unless you also have a piston for it. I found the entire cylinder kit for 35$ from the Duke on ebay, so I think that will be the simplest and just sell the saw cheap on CL
If you go that route, be sure to vac Check AND check the squish! The aftermarket kits are known to have excessive squish which will run like crap!
He posted while I was typing. I will not interfere with site sponsor sales and am out.
To Grizs' question, The squish with LRB piston and my cyl was 63. I broke it right back down and cut the base. It's now back together with nice compression at 33 squish. I have not yet ran the saw since rebuild.
To Grizs' question, The squish with LRB piston and my cyl was 63. I broke it right back down and cut the base. It's now back together with nice compression at 33 squish. I have not yet ran the saw since rebuild.
Did you discover the reason the original piston melted down?
do you think that seal is available somewhere? Do you know what it's called or a part number?
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Need Confirmation that a 046 fuel tank is a drop in MS460 replacement- Latest: RedneckChainsawRepair
