Clutch engages late? (new MS 151T)

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argiopeweb

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Picked up a brand spankin' MS 151T about a month ago for in-tree pruning-oriented projects. Cute saw. Light, quiet, enough power (even before the usual tweaks) for what it is, and cuts beautifully with a Panther mini chain.

Haven't had much time to use it, but I put a tank and a half through on Friday and noticed the clutch really doesn't play ball at low RPM. Tach says 5200 RPM to get chain motion. Same result with a bare powerhead, so it's not chain/bar friction. The dealer who sold it to me thought it felt fine (and he could very well be right), but, to me, it doesn't feel right on the low-end.

This is my first time using a <25cc saw, so it's possible my expectation of a ~3700RPM clutch (like the 200T) is misguided. Neither I nor the dealer were able to find an RPM spec. It's also my first brand-new saw, so it's possible I just need to run it more and let the clutch springs loosen.

Can anyone here offer some enlightenment? I'd prefer a bit more chain control at low-RPM, but if I need to just mash the go button feel free to tell me to man up.
 
Seems to be the trend from manufacturers lighter clutches and heavier springs resulting in higher RPM's before the clutch shoes engage. It's what the market wants or more so obsessed with snappy throttle response and peak revs in the cut. Gone are the days of saws with balls that can keep pulling chain down low.
 
Does the clutch from 200T model fit to 151T? :)
Clever idea, but looks like "no". The 151 appears to have (by my calipers) the same 61mm ID clutch drum as the 150. 200 is 66mm, 201 is 67.

Good thinking or the lower rpm engaging springs might fit?
I might grab a set of replacement springs and see if I can give them the slightest of tweaks outward to simulate a few tens of hours of use. Amusing to me that some premature wear would actually be in my interest on this saw...

It's what the market wants or more so obsessed with snappy throttle response and peak revs in the cut.
Pity. I'd wait the extra quarter second for peak RPM to be able to nip a sucker at at 4700 rpm.

Unfortunately, it appears you're right: I finally spoke the right incantation to Google and found the specifications for the 150's clutch in a preview. "Clutch engages at: 5300 RPM." I assume, given the identical dimensions, it's at least a comparable clutch.

Still open to ideas on how to make that number lower, but at least I now know it's the factory-correct number.
 
Normally, you shouldn't be cutting wood at anything other than WOT (more chance of kickback at lower rpms), and kickbacks are generally more dramatic and dangerous with light saws, with TH saws, and when working in trees ... so ... do ya feel lucky?
 
Your point is well taken. Perhaps this is a technique error on my part.
I'm as guilty as most about not always doing it, but I try to stick to the "rule." Especially with short-barred, top-handle, lightweight saws in trees. (Just as light handguns kick harder, light chainsaws kick faster.) They'll snap at ya faster than a mousetrap if yer not careful.

Watch that tip, wear a face screen and stay far, far away from chain-link fences! (I've seen some horror stories about that here...)
 
Picked up a brand spankin' MS 151T about a month ago for in-tree pruning-oriented projects. Cute saw. Light, quiet, enough power (even before the usual tweaks) for what it is, and cuts beautifully with a Panther mini chain.

Haven't had much time to use it, but I put a tank and a half through on Friday and noticed the clutch really doesn't play ball at low RPM. Tach says 5200 RPM to get chain motion. Same result with a bare powerhead, so it's not chain/bar friction. The dealer who sold it to me thought it felt fine (and he could very well be right), but, to me, it doesn't feel right on the low-end.

This is my first time using a <25cc saw, so it's possible my expectation of a ~3700RPM clutch (like the 200T) is misguided. Neither I nor the dealer were able to find an RPM spec. It's also my first brand-new saw, so it's possible I just need to run it more and let the clutch springs loosen.

Can anyone here offer some enlightenment? I'd prefer a bit more chain control at low-RPM, but if I need to just mash the go button feel free to tell me to man up.
The reason I have stood back from buying these 150's, for re-conditioning, and re-sale? As they are a new model, many of the comments here on AS, and other arenas, is consistent with, "no guts", no power, toy , all the way to Stihl purists suggesting the machine is being tasked beyond its limit. Not sure what that means.......

Maybe thats not wrong what you describe....just designed in.
 
Clever idea, but looks like "no". The 151 appears to have (by my calipers) the same 61mm ID clutch drum as the 150. 200 is 66mm, 201 is 67.


I might grab a set of replacement springs and see if I can give them the slightest of tweaks outward to simulate a few tens of hours of use. Amusing to me that some premature wear would actually be in my interest on this saw...


Pity. I'd wait the extra quarter second for peak RPM to be able to nip a sucker at at 4700 rpm.

Unfortunately, it appears you're right: I finally spoke the right incantation to Google and found the specifications for the 150's clutch in a preview. "Clutch engages at: 5300 RPM." I assume, given the identical dimensions, it's at least a comparable clutch.

Still open to ideas on how to make that number lower, but at least I now know it's the factory-correct number.
Clutch number is the same for the 150t and 151t saws. 150 service manual does say - clutch engages at 5300 rpm
 
You all remind me of Tim on that tv show, "home improvement". But I too love to mess with everything, and improve it.
 
I have the same saw. I like it a lot. But I too found you need to run it full out to cut.

I actually really like the saw. I bought it for my dad, but I end use it a lot.
 
The reason I have stood back from buying these 150's, for re-conditioning, and re-sale? As they are a new model, many of the comments here on AS, and other arenas, is consistent with, "no guts", no power, toy , all the way to Stihl purists suggesting the machine is being tasked beyond its limit. Not sure what that means.......

Maybe thats not wrong what you describe....just designed in.
Any 150's you have i might buy.
 
The reason I have stood back from buying these 150's, for re-conditioning, and re-sale? As they are a new model, many of the comments here on AS, and other arenas, is consistent with, "no guts", no power, toy , all the way to Stihl purists suggesting the machine is being tasked beyond its limit. Not sure what that means.......

Maybe thats not wrong what you describe....just designed in.
Im looking for a used MS 150T got one or know of where to get one?
 

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