Clutch springs weak?

[Jcubb]

This is a problem that works against itself. If your clutch spring is weak, you will not be able to get your saw to idle down properly because your engine doesn't have enough torque to keep up with the added friction at such a low speed. But on the flip side of the coin, the actual problem may be that your saw has an air leak or bad impulse signal for example. The air leak/week impulse line would not allow you to idle down the saw far enough to stop the clutch from engaging.

I would recommend that anyone who is having this problem remove their clutch and see if they can get the engine running properly without the clutch. That is an easy way to diagnose which of the two problems they are having.

I had this problem with one of my modified saws. I automatically assumed that the saw would not run because of some of the modifications I did to the saw. It turned out that it just needed a new clutch spring.

Im glad that your saw just needed the idle turned down a bit, just thought I would add this for anyone who is browsing the forum having a similar problem.

 

[Little Al]

JR has pointed out the clutch you probably have. Most likely the spring is worn out that you have. You could scrounge up a used one or order a new one. If it was me, take the one you have out grind off the end and heat up one coil to make it for the connecting link and try it. The end that you heated needs to be retreated so it will retain its shape. It being a 1/8 inch shorter will be about 5 to 10 percent stiffer. If it works well then consider a new one or get another used one to modify. That type of spring is harder to find than others. I have modified brake springs to use, but only when it is very tough to find the original. Thanks

If you clip off 2or 3 coils a pair of side cutter in the last coil on the spring will open it enough to with 2 pairs of pliers to bend it to right angles to the rest of the spring Grind off enough with a Dremel cut off wheel to enable to hook in "tother" end. Repeat until you get no drive at your chosen tick over speed

 

[Ted Jenkins]

If you clip off 2or 3 coils a pair of side cutter in the last coil on the spring will open it enough to with 2 pairs of pliers to bend it to right angles to the rest of the spring Grind off enough with a Dremel cut off wheel to enable to hook in "tother" end. Repeat until you get no drive at your chosen tick over speed

Yes sounds like a good plan. I like to warm up the ends of the spring to temper them a bit. If the ends do not break then maybe a step not needed. Thanks

 

[Little Al]

Yes sounds like a good plan. I like to warm up the ends of the spring to temper them a bit. If the ends do not break then maybe a step not needed. Thanks

If the ends are heated up they require re tempering If you can achieve the end result without resorting to heat it is quicker & keeps the original temper some time the spring is to brittle & snaps so heat is required