Craftsman 2.0 14" chainsaw - what should I expect

[ijpom]

In to 2020 I decided I needed a chainsaw to manage the back 1/3 acre of "forest" on my lot.

Picked up a barely used Craftsman cheap ($30), rebuilt the carb with new seals and diaphragms and also the replaced fuel line. Got it running acceptably, and have done a few hours of tree management, and have a few more hours to go. Won't get any more work than a hand full of hours any year.

It's old enough that there is no chain-brake safety bar, but it appears to be a direct copy of a Poulan 2000 with different color shrouds.

Should I expect it to last?
Any usual problems I need to have parts in supply for?
Considering putting on a 16" bar when the current is worn out. Bad idea?

Thanks for any input.

 

[s sidewall]

It is a poulan 2000. It will run a 16" bar but I've found 14" on them they seemed to cut the best. Only main thing to watch for it the valve going out in the crankcase. It has a duck bill valve inside of it and they do go bad. The screen side can be filed off enough the remove the screen to get to the valve. You just have to JB Weld the screen back on. Good little trim saws.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

 

[s sidewall]

On parts, ebay and word of mouth. May be a few new parts floating around out there.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

 

[ijpom]

On parts, ebay and word of mouth. May be a few new parts floating around out there.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

Fortunately, I've got some spares (chain, and generic fuel system parts) and haven't needed anything else.

Any chance you've run this saw with something other than the 16:1 fuel oil mix. Saw runs fine on the oil rich ratio, but it's smokey and doesn't come close to matching my other two stroke fuel requirements.
Other people have indicated that the 16:1 was a product of bad oils in the era, and new (better) oils could use a more common ratio (32, 40 or 50?)

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Fortunately, I've got some spares (chain, and generic fuel system parts) and haven't needed anything else.

Any chance you've run this saw with something other than the 16:1 fuel oil mix. Saw runs fine on the oil rich ratio, but it's smokey and doesn't come close to matching my other two stroke fuel requirements.
Other people have indicated that the 16:1 was a product of bad oils in the era, and new (better) oils could use a more common ratio (32, 40 or 50?)

I have a 1994 2000 since new and till 2000ish I ran 32:1. Then gave saw to my dad for many years of his trim saw use.
Got it back year or 2 ago and running 40:1 in it.

No need to run that ratio you mentioned.

I just gave a 2300 and 1800 runner to a guy on local trade.

After cleaning it up.

 

[J D]

Fortunately, I've got some spares (chain, and generic fuel system parts) and haven't needed anything else.

Any chance you've run this saw with something other than the 16:1 fuel oil mix. Saw runs fine on the oil rich ratio, but it's smokey and doesn't come close to matching my other two stroke fuel requirements.
Other people have indicated that the 16:1 was a product of bad oils in the era, and new (better) oils could use a more common ratio (32, 40 or 50?)

I've had a 2300 for years, have always run it at 40:1 & never had any issues other than fuel lines & the previously mentioned duckbill in the oiler.
If you change to a lesser mix ratio you're probably going to want to re-tune it as that will it cause it to run a bit richer

 

[s sidewall]

I ran 40:1 in mine. I have a half dozen or so of them.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

 

[ijpom]

I ran 40:1 in mine. I have a half dozen or so of them.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

Thanks for the confirmed info Steve, JD and Jeremiah. Sounds like I can run any mix up to 40:1 safely, with only a mild re-tune.

Steve, you seem all set with "spares", with your fleet of Poulans/Craftmans.

 

[s sidewall]

The oil check valve usually are bad or going bad in these saws after all these years. You'll know when it goes out cause it will stop oiling the chain.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

 

[joe25DA]

They are tough, light weight well built little saws. About the easiest saw there is to work on. I have had a few over the years even a new in box one from ‘84. The vibrate a bit, likely due to a single counter weight crank. But they also weigh next to nothing. If I have my choice I pick the larger more powerful S25DA, truly a pro saw. That said the micro saws are all mag with a bolt on jug and a very reliable ignition module.

 

[ijpom]

It is a poulan 2000. It will run a 16" bar but I've found 14" on them they seemed to cut the best. Only main thing to watch for it the valve going out in the crankcase. It has a duck bill valve inside of it and they do go bad. The screen side can be filed off enough the remove the screen to get to the valve. You just have to JB Weld the screen back on. Good little trim saws.

I've had a 2300 for years, have always run it at 40:1 & never had any issues other than fuel lines & the previously mentioned duckbill in the oiler.
If you change to a lesser mix ratio you're probably going to want to re-tune it as that will it cause it to run a bit richer

Hi JD and Steve,
I'm referencing your quotes about "duckbill in the oiler" because I find myself digging into the 2.3 in an attempt to fix the lack of bar oil.
I've got the saw in many pieces, and believe you must be talking about the black fitting with foam filter and one way valve in this following pic.
Or is there another duck bill I should dig into, while I have things apart?

 

[ijpom]

Looks like I'd need special tools/knowledge from this point of disassembly.

 

[hotshot]

Not really, just a short piece of rope, a bench vice & couple of long bolts or allen keys to fab a makeshift “spanner wrench” to unscrew the clutch clockwise.

The check valve 530069142 that usually fails is the one located behind the clutch & drum. See attached pic.

I’d go to the “The Beg for Manuals” sticky thread here on AS & ask Mr. Ray Benson for a copy of the Poulan micro or 2300 service manual.

Probably be best to move this whole thread to the “Nik’s Poulan” sticky thread too. The Poulan experts are there, lol!

 

[ijpom]

Thanks hotshot, appreciate the guidance.

 

[ijpom]

Watched a video on Youtube ( by an English spoken guy) and it looked like he did the removal of the oil valve without taking the clutch off. Then he filed, disassembled, cleaned and reassembled new duckbill valve before putting back onto saw.
He indicated it's 5mm and available on Ebay or Amazon.
Found these on ebay, and going to give it a try when they arrive. Appears to be a lifetime supply.

.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Watched a video on Youtube ( by an English spoken guy) and it looked like he did the removal of the oil valve without taking the clutch off. Then he filed, disassembled, cleaned and reassembled new duckbill valve before putting back onto saw.
He indicated it's 5mm and available on Ebay or Amazon. Found these on ebay, and going to give it a try when they arriveView attachment 908862. Appears to be a lifetime supply.

I found these also work on the Homelite XLs whose duck bills are NLS