Creosote build up advice - help?

[bbxlr8]

Hi All, Very glad to be back on here after the summer - crazy year all around!
I need advice on getting rid of some solid creosote build-up that will not brush out.

Here's a recap of my situation and bit of the stupidity on my part that got me here:

• Been in this PA house for 11 years (going into 10th burn season) and learned so much more than I have given back here on AS - so THANKS ALL
• Using a '92 Osburn 1600 and it overachieves
• Run 24x7 in season - get all of my wood on site (10 acres)
• Is in basement and masonry chimney with a square clay liner (7"? and 27' run to SS cap).

Last season was bad all around and got way behind and worked some standing and fallen dead - obviously, cause of the problem - I get it...
Generally, try to run hot and no issue with the amount of wood that I use - knew I was pushing it and used the Rutland Creosote Remover several times toward the end
I have a moisture meter but didn't use it.

The problem is that I now 1/4 or a bit more 3/8 to occasional 1/2 of inconsistent ridges of hard shiny black build-up. I "think" it is in the top 6' or so and that also makes sense as gases cool and drop out at the top & screen etc.
I also believe this because I clean myself. It had not been done at all when I moved in and I hired in a recommended guy and was not happy and knew I could do better.
PO was too lazy to use the stove and it was the fireplace flue that was bad originally. The stove was basically brand new.

The baseline is that always clean out myself and am able to rod/brush top down. I have one other std fireplace that I do also.
Most years it is very minor, easily removed, dusty grey residue. I have a good feel for the process and normal brush feel and this is why I THINK it is only near the top.
I DID wear away some of the hard build up and knocked off the ridge edges with very vigorous brushing but it is NOT coming off like I want. Cap cleaned up well and is clear.
So, in general, my "usual" methods of cut/split/stack/dry has been fine. Shame on me but my company was sold, got laid off, and scrambled for a new job - (I know, no excuses...)

SO, what should I do to resolve now? I am thinking:
1) Use dry wood and run hot?
2) Add the Ruland Remover frequently? (in past I tossed in aluminum cans occasionally. Know some use copper or potato peelings etc.)
3) Brush out monthly?
4) I know the long term solution may end up being SS liner, but $ is an issue & I am mentally resisting as I have done well with the current set up previously (safety is key though)

Am I in danger of a chimney fire - especially if build-up runs lower than I think?
I was new to running stove full time when I move in and still have a Chimfex on hand based on readings here
Another push toward the liner is that I occasionally got reversion on restart in the deep cold when I had to be gone and chimney mass got cold. This was rare but a serious issue that drove me crazy when I first encountered it.
The lesson was keeping it burning and creatively preheating the stack if got in that spot again.

Any and all thoughts are appreciated and have at it if I need straightening out.
THANKS!

 

[Marine-piper]

I've been using this for years and it has helped keep everything much cleaner and turns glaze to ash. It also comes in a spray powder after everything gets nice and hot.

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[pauljoseph]

Honestly, I would get a chimney sweep to take it all out. I clean my stainless steel liner every year, but every two or three years i pay a chimney sweep to inspect everything And clean. I burn hot fires and I’ve never had serious build up but I am not an expert and I could miss something. Having an expert come in is usually worth the price.

 

[homemade]

https://www.ruralking.com/meecos-re...phm8y625FfaF6AbjKEjwPW0DravVF30RoCV4wQAvD_BwE
I hear this is good for drying out the sticky tar. Turns it to ash that can be swept out.


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[Marine5068]

No matter if wood is standing dead, cut/split stack for a year or two before burning it and keep it off the ground and cover the stacks with metal roofing or keep it under cover in a carport or build a wood shed.
Always try to keep firewood in the sun and wind to keep it seasoning/seasoned.
I've seasoned Oaks for 3-4 years before burning. Maple sometimes 2 years or more.
With or without a moisture meter check, this will ensure good dry wood.
Keep cleaning the flue every season and use some of the creosote cleaner prior to cleaning.
Do you have 2 or 3 units hooked to the same chimney?
If so that's not good and is actually against our building code.
It should be one flue for one device.
Good luck and safe burning.

 

[GoldField]

I also would like to hear more about what products are best for creosote removal. I have used a few different products and I am uncertain as to how effective they are, thus I will not name them.

But what I did use at the end of this past season to clean the glass and masonry on my fireplace was Imperial Clear Flame 2 in 1 Glass and Masonry Cleaner and was pleased with the results compared to other products I have used in the past. Don't know if this is helpful as to the OP, but perhaps to someone else it will be.

 

[bbxlr8]

Thanks to all for the input. Ordered a gallon of the ACS liquid after reading more about it
It seems like the ACS power is better for my situation, but it is out of stock everywhere online. Anyone know why?

I actually have 2 WB fireplaces and a stove and ALL are on separate flues. I am pretty confident that any professional is going to concur with my assessment and want to try heat & chemical followed by brushing again.

 

[Marine-piper]

After a thorough cleaning several years ago I strictly use both liquid and powder and have had zero glaze build up. Initial burn it says to spray the wood 60×'s and burn as usual. I add the powder after its been burning for a few hrs.

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[Marine-piper]

"It seems like the ACS power is better for my situation, but it is out of stock everywhere online. Anyone know why?"

Probably because it's coming up on burning season, I buy in the off season from one of my customers.

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[TimberWolf530]

The best way to solve your creosote problem is:
1. Install a SS liner, preferably an insulated one. From your post it sounds like your stove dumps into a standard chimney flue that is 7" square. This is a 49 square inch cross section. Most modern stoves want a 6" round flue, which gives approximately a 28 square inch cross section. Even if you are burning hot, chances are you will still build up some creosote at the top of your flue. Why? The bigger the cross section of your flue, the slower the gasses rise, and the more they expand and cool. The higher they go, the more they expand, and the more they cool. When they do this, they stick to the flue and this is a simplistic explanation of how creosote forms. In your case, the height (27 feet is a long flue) magnifies this issue, and makes insulating all the more important. With a 6" insulated SS liner, the gasses will rise much faster, expand less, and stay hotter. You will most likely find that after installing a liner, you will little to no creosote. I have an insulated 6" SS liner, and the only thing I ever have to clean out is some very fine ash.

2. Use only well seasoned wood. They drier the better. The more moisture the wood has in it, the more likely the gasses are to stick to the flue, so creosote builds much faster.

 

[TimberWolf530]

The best way to solve your creosote problem is:
1. Install a SS liner, preferably an insulated one. From your post it sounds like your stove dumps into a standard chimney flue that is 7" square. This is a 49 square inch cross section. Most modern stoves want a 6" round flue, which gives approximately a 28 square inch cross section. Even if you are burning hot, chances are you will still build up some creosote at the top of your flue. Why? The bigger the cross section of your flue, the slower the gasses rise, and the more they expand and cool. The higher they go, the more they expand, and the more they cool. When they do this, they stick to the flue and this is a simplistic explanation of how creosote forms. In your case, the height (27 feet is a long flue) magnifies this issue, and makes insulating all the more important. With a 6" insulated SS liner, the gasses will rise much faster, expand less, and stay hotter. You will most likely find that after installing a liner, you will little to no creosote. I have an insulated 6" SS liner, and the only thing I ever have to clean out is some very fine ash.

2. Use only well seasoned wood. They drier the better. The more moisture the wood has in it, the more likely the gasses are to stick to the flue, so creosote builds much faster.

 

[bbxlr8]

Thanks again. I started diving into SS liners and looks like there is flexible & rigid insulated.

I know they wouldn't sell them and call it lifetime but it seems that the flex-type wouldn't be as durable? Also to add approx 1.5 inch to i.d. so I probably would need 5.5 in that 7' square?
Other issue is that I am below grade so no access to cleanout or doing a T. It is approx 2' from the wall thimble to the 90' turn up deep inside masonry...

 

[CaseyForrest]

Stainless, flexible liners are just as durable as rigid Class A.

You wont fit a 6" liner in a 7" tile, even if you ovalized it. What we do in situations like that is remove the clay liner. Its a tedious, dirty job. But necessary.

 

[Franny K]

Wood heating,. Want to heat the thermal mass. An insulated liner for a central masonry chimney ?

 

[bbxlr8]

Agreed, but my current chimneys are external and the run to basement stove is long and at least part of my problem...
FWIW my old house had a massive brick central chimney with a heatilater in the FP

 

[hcube]

I would like to talk to anybody atht has used a Longwood furnace. They are no longer manufactured. they were built in Gallitin Mo. in the early eighties. I have fired t his furnace for 35 years and have always have had flue problems. Seems I have tried a lot of possible solutions but to no avail.