critique my chain please? ... 3/8" Stihl RS. round file

[toadman]

So, I've been filing my own saws for a few years, but am always interested in doing everything better.
I just don't think It cuts as well as it could, and I would like to hear what you guys think as to why.

 

[president]

So, I've been filing my own saws for a few years, but am always interested in doing everything better.
I just don't think It cuts as well as it could, and I would like to hear what you guys think as to why.

So, I've been filing my own saws for a few years, but am always interested in doing everything better.
I just don't think It cuts as well as it could, and I would like to hear what you guys think as to why.

Billy ray would cheer your gullets,and top/side plates look great
it could be that your rakers could be dropped slightly more
for self feeding effect

 

[toadman]

I enjoy BBR videos too, and I admit I picked up a few things from his youtube I will see if my rakers are high.
I use an Oregon gauge marked at 0.63mm at the moment.
recommended raker specs?

Billy ray would cheer your gullets,and top/side plates look great
it could be that your rakers could be dropped slightly more
for self feeding effect

It does self feed a bit, but not as well as I'd like.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

OK Toad here is where it gets tricky. Your chain looks decent, not decent for me. So what that means is you file a little off your raker you would likely be happy. Philbert just recently ( yesturday ) described this process quite well. He explained that you will have to trial and error until you get it perfect for your application which will change from day to day. Your cutter is not far off and I would guess would do a satisfactory job. Your chain will dull fast if left the way it is because the cutter will skim over the wood more rather than digging in to the wood. One thing that I change a lot is the face of the cutter more razor sharp for soft clean wood and more blunt for dirty hard wood. You have managed to do what many folks believe it is an impossible task to learn. Thanks

 

[toadman]

OK Toad here is where it gets tricky. Your chain looks decent, not decent for me. So what that means is you file a little off your raker you would likely be happy. Philbert just recently (yesterday) described this process quite well. He explained that you will have to trial and error until you get it perfect for your application which will change from day to day. Your cutter is not far off and I would guess would do a satisfactory job. Your chain will dull fast if left the way it is because the cutter will skim over the wood more rather than digging in to the wood. One thing that I change a lot is the face of the cutter more razor sharp for soft clean wood and more blunt for dirty hard wood. You have managed to do what many folks believe it is an impossible task to learn. Thanks

Good to know... I can see I have a lot to learn!
I cut mostly hardwoods, but around here most hardwoods are not all that hard. Oak (4 types), poplar, elm, ash, hickory, walnut, maple(3 types) and sycamore are (mostly) it for me on the regular.
When green I don't consider any of these regulars to be very hard, but dry hickory, or dry ash, is hard on my cutters for sure.
Dry Osage orange and I reach for my carbide I have to sharpen my chain after every full day of cutting, and I do touch up throughout the day.
You mention profiling for different woods; I am assuming this is making the top plate cutter edge less acute? Larger file? holding the file up a bit? School me...

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Good to know... I can see I have a lot to learn!
I cut mostly hardwoods, but around here most hardwoods are not all that hard. Oak (4 types), poplar, elm, ash, hickory, walnut, maple(3 types) and sycamore are (mostly) it for me on the regular.
When green I don't consider any of these regulars to be very hard, but dry hickory, or dry ash, is hard on my cutters for sure.
Dry Osage orange and I reach for my carbide I have to sharpen my chain after every full day of cutting, and I do touch up throughout the day.
You mention profiling for different woods; I am assuming this is making the top plate cutter edge less acute? Larger file? holding the file up a bit? School me...

Toad I never use any file, but 7/32 for every thing some times even micro chains because I do not want to bother getting the right ones. The more you lift up will make your cutting edge more tapered or thinner. The more you push back will make your cutting edge more blunt or less taper. It is a process. keep doing exactly what you are doing and work on your rakers. Take about one or two strokes and see what that does then one or two more and when the saw jumps around and shakes like H you have gone too far. Thanks

 

[old guy]

I think yer chain looks great, rakers, maybe, but that looks like a new chain, yer good to go.

 

[cus_deluxe]

side plates/gullet look good, hows the top plate angle? looks like depth gauges havent been touched, that will certainly help it feed

 

[TheDarkLordChinChin]

This is my set up for softwood. Our softwoods are very soft.