Critique my chain

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Glen2504

ArboristSite Member
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Be easy on me. All you experts please give me some tips and tricks. The chain seems to cut well but I like to learn so I'm asking for advice. I touch it up every tank or 2 at the most. The chain is a 3/8. Sharpened at 30 degrees and the rakers are set about .028. Hopefully the pics turned out ok.
 

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It you are happy with the way it cuts, that's what is important. Always hard to tell from a photograph. But, if you want some fussy, 'armchair' comments:

What's with the burr on the top plate cutting edge? Normally only see that after overheating with a grinder.

It almost looks like the top plate edge is curved (might be the photo), like your file is not moving in a straight line (like a pool cue).

Looks like a coarse file (striations visible in first photo). Second photo looks very smooth.

Looks like you file your depth gauges (aka 'rakers') flat. You should round the front edge over, afterwards, to match the original profile, so that the 'point' you create does not dig in.

Again - proof is in the cutting!

Philbert
 
Thank you. I'm not sure about the burr. I'm using a stihl 7/32" file. Maybe I'm filing to hard?
 
Thank you. I'm not sure about the burr. I'm using a stihl 7/32" file. Maybe I'm filing to hard?
Are you lifting up the file at the end of the stroke? The edges of the top plate and side plate are what do the cutting. If there is a burr or wire edge that breaks off, you could be left with a dull edge.

Usually, you only see that when the cutter is overheated by improper grinding, and the chrome layer peels back.

Philbert
 
If those cutters are Carlton A1L chisel, the plating is thick and likely may be the burr.
No steel file can 'sharpen' that layer of chrome on the cutter. Usually that burr will get knocked down in couple of cuts.
Make some cuts to clean off the burr and repost some pics. It also be good to have pics of the edges around working corner.

(as an aside, there are some burrs on bottom edge of tie straps that should be looked into as the cutters don't look like they have much file time)
 
As to the side plate burring, I'm thinking take a look at the drive rim.
Seems like they are curved like a wear pocket on a drive rim.
But sometimes my eyes and digital photos fool me
 
I would have no problem throwing that on my saw . I usually clean my chain with a wire wheel or throw it in the dishwasher to get the crap off the chain before I sharpen them. Keeps the file pockets clean or the grinding wheel clean .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Looks to me like the cutter in the first pic had the file chattering, maybe filed outside-in.

In any case, I much prefer to ease off on the file when finishing a tooth. To "polish" the filed surface.
 
Are you lifting up the file at the end of the stroke? The edges of the top plate and side plate are what do the cutting. If there is a burr or wire edge that breaks off, you could be left with a dull edge.

Usually, you only see that when the cutter is overheated by improper grinding, and the chrome layer peels back.

Philbert
I'd love to hear how anyone grinds a Stihl chain without leaving a slight bur. Typically happens worse on the left hand cutters. I know I can't do it and I do hundreds of chains a month and don't burn any teeth.
 
I'd sure like to know how to cure it. Unless as chain is barely dull, I always end up with some sort of thin burr. I touch up my personal chains after every work session, so they get one tiny pass. Most of my customers bring me crap chains that require many light passes. I always end up with a slight burr that comes off the first cut in wood. I've heard the CBN wheels do it far less, but I have as yet been able to find one for my Stihl grinder. I am also stuck using Stihl wheels for the standard grinding wheels.
 
I have not used the USG grinder - only hear good things about it.

I dress wheels frequently - about once a loop, or whenever I notice a change in the cutting.

I started a thread on resinoid wheels, which seem to leave less of a burr on side plates. I know that these are available for Oregon and some Silvey grinders. Don't know of a source for STIHL grinders. Maybe somebody does, or know how to make them work with a bushing or something?

Philbert
 
Before grinding after dressing wheel to shape apply some cheap bar soap to the wheel ( also specific products made for this) prevents loading of the wheel with metal particles reducing the burning caused by a loaded wheel, due the same thing to a file to prevent chips from sticking between the teeth of the file. Just an old tool maker trick , no credit to me.
 
I'd say as mentioned before that maybe the at the end of your the file rocks up a bit causing that side of tooth or top plate to thin out and create the burr. Otherwise you got the corner cleaned out good and uniform shape
 
I would have no problem throwing that on my saw . I usually clean my chain with a wire wheel or throw it in the dishwasher to get the crap off the chain before I sharpen them. Keeps the file pockets clean or the grinding wheel clean .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do you prefer Cascade or Finish in the dishwasher? Just curious so i can tell the wife to buy the right stuff.:)
 
Would someone post your homemade video explaining what's been said here and to show us how you go about sharpening your chains manually and with a grinder? Just a thought. I know most of this thread is old, but, if you still check for updates...:)
 
or throw it in the dishwasher to get the crap off the chain before I sharpen them.
Do you live by yourself ?:crazy2: I know I soon would be if I introduced any thing chain saw related to the dish washer (The one in use in the house ) I also would not do that as hot water is forced into the pivots on the Presets could cause rust if left & not dried properly parts washer a better bet or a container with some kerosene & an old paint brush I don't know if we are doing something different but the work saw chains seem to not collect to much crap
 
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