Cut when felled, or let 'em sit?

[muddstopper]

We all have different ideas based on real life experience. There is no way to honestly say who is right or wrong. That is because we do what works for us. I will tell you the way I cut wood is NOT THE BEST. I will say simple science says fell it, buck it, split it, stack it, WAIT then BURN THAT WOOD

I think most folks that are cutting green trees for firewood are usally in a hurry to get the job done. They dont have the time to cut down a tree and then wait for a couple of weeks for leaves to wilt and turn brown to buck and take home. Surface area, air movement and sunshine are what drys out a tree. If you have air movement and sunshine the more surface area exposed, the quicker the wood will dry. Bucked rounds on the ground will rot before it drys. Logs on the ground will also rot before it drys. CSS and the splits on the ground will rot way faster than the wood at the top of the stack. Even trees that have fell over in the woods and are held off the ground by limbs or other trees will season for good firewood before it rots. Aint nobody out there trimming up those trees when they fall.. Still, if you cut that tree when it falls and then buck split and stack, it will be ready to use much faster than it would if left to cure in the woods.

 

[jellyroll]

I assume your mill is next door

I don't own a mill strictly firewood only.

 

[Bill G]

I think most folks that are cutting green trees for firewood are usally in a hurry to get the job done. They dont have the time to cut down a tree and then wait for a couple of weeks for leaves to wilt and turn brown to buck and take home. Surface area, air movement and sunshine are what drys out a tree. If you have air movement and sunshine the more surface area exposed, the quicker the wood will dry. Bucked rounds on the ground will rot before it drys. Logs on the ground will also rot before it drys. CSS and the splits on the ground will rot way faster than the wood at the top of the stack. Even trees that have fell over in the woods and are held off the ground by limbs or other trees will season for good firewood before it rots. Aint nobody out there trimming up those trees when they fall.. Still, if you cut that tree when it falls and then buck split and stack, it will be ready to use much faster than it would if left to cure in the woods.

Like I said it all depends on your location and preference. Here I have to grab it green and fast. I cut a line awhile back that was about two years worth of wood but I got nothing out of it. We started after dinner and I three quarter cut all the trees . my brother snapped them with the ex , and my nephew piled with the crawler. We were done by 3:30 and at least two years of wood was gone as their was no time to wait

 

[muddstopper]

Like I said it all depends on your location and preference. Here I have to grab it green and fast. I cut a line awhile back that was about two years worth of wood but I got nothing out of it. We started after dinner and I three quarter cut all the trees . my brother snapped them with the ex , and my nephew piled with the crawler. We were done by 3:30 and at least two years of wood was gone as their was no time to wait

And nothing beat equipment when it comes to processing firewood, except maybe getting someone else to do it for you.

 

[ELM]

This

False, if it’s a hardwood it’s going to take about 2 years to dry either way. Cut,
Split and stack in the sun with good airflow to dry properly. Leaves on won’t do jack.

 

[Lionsfan]

False, if it’s a hardwood it’s going to take about 2 years to dry either way. Cut,
Split and stack in the sun with good airflow to dry properly. Leaves on won’t do jack.

Must have something to do with location and species of wood. In my area, Sugar Maple, American Beech and White ash are all gtg if they've been split and stacked for 6 months out in the open exposed to the wind and sun.

 

[Hermio]

I cut when I can, and stack the rounds for two years before splitting and stacking under roof. I developed this habit when I did all my splitting by hand. It is easier when the wood develops natual cracks, My wood tests out at 8% moisture when I burn it. BTW, in my experience, red oak is very slow to rot. I have cut some that had been down for more than a decade. The bark and the growth layers were rotted away but the heartwood was still sound.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

Must have something to do with location and species of wood. In my area, Sugar Maple, American Beech and White ash are all gtg if they've been split and stacked for 6 months out in the open exposed to the wind and sun.

Gtg vs dry and seasoned are very different. Split those sticks again in 6 months and check it with a moisture meter. They wouldn’t be dry enough to burn in a modern epa stove like mine.

 

[Lionsfan]

Gtg vs dry and seasoned are very different. Split those sticks again in 6 months and check it with a moisture meter. They wouldn’t be dry enough to burn in a modern epa stove like mine.

No modern epa stoves in the old farmhouse, so no moisture meter needed. Hopefully I'm dead and gone before that day comes.

 

[ValleyForge]

No modern epa stoves in the old farmhouse, so no moisture meter needed. Hopefully I'm dead and gone before that day comes.

Can you imagine the snazzy uniforms the government stove police will have…lol

 

[Bill G]

I cut when I can, and stack the rounds for two years before splitting and stacking under roof. I developed this habit when I did all my splitting by hand. It is easier when the wood develops natual cracks, My wood tests out at 8% moisture when I burn it. BTW, in my experience, red oak is very slow to rot. I have cut some that had been down for more than a decade. The bark and the growth layers were rotted away but the heartwood was still sound.

Well round here Red Oak rots quick on the ground

 

[Bill G]

It is interesting the different experiences folks have. I would never consider ever using a moisture meter on firewood. I am not even sure I have seen one that can accurately read moisture in firewood. I think a good measure of suitability to burn is based on two simple things. Your chimney condition and your ash pile. I burned strictly dry locust for 14 of 15 years. The one off year was dry Red Oak. This was in a cheap steel stove with a black pipe chimney. In the years that I burned Locust I really did not need to clean the chimney. I would brush it and there was zero soot. The ashes were very, very fine with a 100% burn. The year I burned Oak was horrible, It sooted the pipe and left a coarse ash with un-burned wood.

 

[jellyroll]

It is interesting the different experiences folks have. I would never consider ever using a moisture meter on firewood. I am not even sure I have seen one that can accurately read moisture in firewood. I think a good measure of suitability to burn is based on two simple things. Your chimney condition and your ash pile. I burned strictly dry locust for 14 of 15 years. The one off year was dry Red Oak. This was in a cheap steel stove with a black pipe chimney. In the years that I burned Locust I really did not need to clean the chimney. I would brush it and there was zero soot. The ashes were very, very fine with a 100% burn. The year I burned Oak was horrible, It sooted the pipe and left a coarse ash with un-burned wood.

Locust is great firewood.

 

[ValleyForge]

It is interesting the different experiences folks have. I would never consider ever using a moisture meter on firewood. I am not even sure I have seen one that can accurately read moisture in firewood. I think a good measure of suitability to burn is based on two simple things. Your chimney condition and your ash pile. I burned strictly dry locust for 14 of 15 years. The one off year was dry Red Oak. This was in a cheap steel stove with a black pipe chimney. In the years that I burned Locust I really did not need to clean the chimney. I would brush it and there was zero soot. The ashes were very, very fine with a 100% burn. The year I burned Oak was horrible, It sooted the pipe and left a coarse ash with un-burned wood.

I use my Lignomat meter all the time throughout the year To let me know where I stand. I’ve noticed a dramatic difference in drying time depending where I have the wood stacked on the farm.

 

[Bill G]

I use my Lignomat meter all the time throughout the year To let me know where I stand. I’ve noticed a dramatic difference in drying time depending where I have the wood stacked on the farm.

How deep does it read?

 

[ValleyForge]

How deep does it read?

Here, I took a pic of the instructions since they are on my desk….it reads in %moisture….
Oh, and it will read anywhere you want. I split a piece and measure it in the center when I do it.

 

[TRTermite]

Come on now your making fun of the Farmers Almanac aren't ya Some folks have some odd ideas based on moon phases, The man that was murdered here and li worked this farm before me was a big believer in moon phases, We could not cut (castrate) pigs if the moon phase was not right. He was odd but a damm good man and I miss him greatly with all his ideas

I "TRY" to follow the Farmers Almanac for gardening And just like digging horseradish is best if the month yer digging has an "R" in it. Experience from Mom and Dads garden had far better results following the FA.
Tom caught me so off guard with his question, I guess I was happy with myself for my answer and keeping a straight face/voice..

 

[Bill G]

In no way am I trying to start an argument. I just have never seen a moisture meter that can read moisture in firewood. They may be out there but I am not sure where. I looked at the Lignomat website and all the meters they had listed were just as I suspected only accurate to 3/4'' which is fine for lumber but in my opinion says nothing for firewood.. Take a 30" round and half split it. Take a wet reading. Let it dry then take another reading. Now half split that piece and take a reading. I suspect you will see a vastly different reading. If it works for you that is great but I just cannot grasp it being useful for me.

Here is the website https://www.lignomatusa.com/product...=lignomat moisture meter&utm_content=Lignomat

 

[Mad Professor]

I'm occasionally have dropped and cut up my own trees. Getting ready to do it again.

A former neighbor with a lot of experience felling and heating with wood, once told me that if dropping a leafed out tree, best thing was to drop it and let it sit till the leaves dried up and browned, then cut it up and it would be pretty much ready to burn. The idea being most of the moisture would pass out via the leaf system.

Said it would take twice as long to season, into next year, if you cut it up right away, even if split.

True or tale?

What species of trees?

I'd consider girdling them and drop them in the fall. I also girdle, and wait until following spring, but drop them before crown limbs start rotting.

Another thing I do is cut them up, split, stack on some 4" dia limbs, and cover top with lumber cover. That will dry faster, depends how soon and dry you need the wood.

 

[Mad Professor]

In no way am I trying to start an argument. I just have never seen a moisture meter that can read moisture in firewood. They may be out there but I am not sure where. I looked at the Lignomat website and all the meters they had listed were just as I suspected only accurate to 3/4'' which is fine for lumber but in my opinion says nothing for firewood.. Take a 30" round and half split it. Take a wet reading. Let it dry then take another reading. Now half split that piece and take a reading. I suspect you will see a vastly different reading. If it works for you that is great but I just cannot grasp it being useful for me.

Here is the website https://www.lignomatusa.com/product/overview-pinless-meters/?_vsrefdom=adwords&AdGroup=Lignomat&AdGroupId=1167681429933884&AdId=72980101002352&Campaign=**LP Branding - A&CampaignId=271523882&Network=o&campaign=271523882&device=c&identifiers=kwd-72980162387725:loc-190&keyword=lignomat moisture meter&msclkid=837f95e2831e16733e73f725968bc367&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP Branding - A&utm_term=lignomat moisture meter&utm_content=Lignomat

Another way to check moisture, is just throw a split in a fire and see if any moisture comes out the ends.