Cutting tree stumps off at ground level chain stretches and goes dull very quickly

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ericfx1984

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So I have an echo cs590 and another smaller saw that I use

I do a lot of odd jobs in the community I live in and I recently got tasked with removing about 20-seater trees that are approximately 20 to 25 years old... I was really able to make short work of removing the trees and bringing them to the ground and getting them hauled off to the local dump

However, when it came time to remove the stumps and cut them down to ground level as requested I found that my saw is would dull out and stretch extremely quickly

One of the things I did that seemed to help was being more cautious to clear out the area.. my guess is that the saw bar might be bending causing a slight bind increasing the heat on the chain

Have you even tried increasing the oiling to the max and that has helped some but also it seems just taking a break and working more with the nose of the bar rather than fully inserting the bar..

It also seems that the wood down that low is far more dense than the wood a couple feet above the ground?

Some of the bigger ones are around 16 in at the absolute largest area of the base of the tree so these are not particularly large trees
 
As mentioned above, the closer you get to the dirt the harder it’s gonna be on the chain. If you can, hose the tree off the day before. Or day of doesn’t really matter. If you can’t hose it use a broom and clean as much of the dirt off as possible. I’m curious about one thing, why are you taking the trees to the dump?
 
Plunge in angling down somewhat towards the center of the stump. Cut a portion, re position then starting where the last cut ended cut another portion. Maybe 6 to eight times for that size. That way any dirt is being removed not dragged through. I don't think the wood is harder down there not significantly. To go the extreme make a fire around the perimiter and then blow the area with a leaf blower type device or compressed air. Best not do this type of thing when below freezing as any dirt is like a rock to some degree.
 
Yes I've done this and dirt near the ground is the culprit for dulling chains. I don't have any idea what a "seater tree" is, but any species will have the same problem.

By the way, just because you don't see any dirt or sand, it will be stuck in the bark and will also be down inside the wood itself as it accumulated over the growth of the trunk over the years. I've even run into a piece of gravel down inside the tree.
 
Yes, Just from knowing abrasion and trees. It's silica and other harder than steel particles built up in the bark of the tree from splashing up from the ground/etc. It's like wrapping the tree in sandpaper before you start.
 
So I have an echo cs590 and another smaller saw that I use

I do a lot of odd jobs in the community I live in and I recently got tasked with removing about 20-seater trees that are approximately 20 to 25 years old... I was really able to make short work of removing the trees and bringing them to the ground and getting them hauled off to the local dump

However, when it came time to remove the stumps and cut them down to ground level as requested I found that my saw is would dull out and stretch extremely quickly

One of the things I did that seemed to help was being more cautious to clear out the area.. my guess is that the saw bar might be bending causing a slight bind increasing the heat on the chain

Have you even tried increasing the oiling to the max and that has helped some but also it seems just taking a break and working more with the nose of the bar rather than fully inserting the bar..

It also seems that the wood down that low is far more dense than the wood a couple feet above the ground?

Some of the bigger ones are around 16 in at the absolute largest area of the base of the tree so these are not particularly large trees
1+1=2 there is no mystery. Dulling of chain results from contact with physical material that dulls it.

As most have said. Clean area first. Water, blower, broom, shovel + all the above.

Or rent a stump grinder
 
Where are you out of? Looking to move. Am a climber have all tools , saws, climbing gear, rigging gear etc. 9518806047
I live in Lebanon, PA near the lancaster border. Nice area, far enough away from the idjets but close enough not to have to travel too long to get places. Lots of tree crews around here if your looking to move, seems they are always hiring.
 
Do you mean Cedar tree stumps?

You are now getting some experience. (maybe you will know better next time about cutting stumps next to the ground.
Any stump next to the ground is going to quickly dull a chainsaw chain. (how do I know this)

When removing unwanted trees W/o a backhoe or stump grinder I just cut the tree up high and leave a 4 or 5 ft stump. Go back in few years and burn it or pull it over with a tractor.

Next time tell the guy that removing the stumps will require HIM to get a stump grinder at his cost.
 
I Prefer a semi Chisel chain And tend to use the top of the bar and not really bore in but keep the nose/tip close to poking through the other side and feel or look for it to occasionally cut all the way through. I think this keeps the chips free(er) of dirt and grit instead of dragging it through the cut. Watch for kick back and the less you let the bar tip poke through the better. I can't say for sure but it seems the cursed safety chain stays sharp longer than the saws with non-safety on them , might be the brand or the stump. I CAN tell you a bit of Metal will refresh what 'Lil French I know.
 
I had around 200 trees that I cut down at my cabin due to the pine Beatle around 10 years ago. I cut them all about 2 feet off the ground and let them sit for about 5 years. By then the bark flaked off and I was ready to cut with a 461. It was a giant pain for that saw to flush cut stumps, it just didn't seem to have enough low end grunt to do it.

I bought a stihl 090 with a 36 inch bar. It was then pleasurable to cut all those stumps and I was at least 5x faster. With stump cutting, there is no replacement for displacement.
 
Most of the trees I cut are on my property, alot less then some person on this thread.
So I can dug down a few inches & wash the dirt off the trunk, then cut the trunk flat where needed.
If it is in a woodlot, then I leave the stump a few inches high, if it is not in the driveway in & out of the lot.
 
1+1=2 there is no mystery. Dulling of chain results from contact with physical material that dulls it.

As most have said. Clean area first. Water, blower, broom, shovel + all the above.

Or rent a stump grinder
I agree, rent a stump grinder if you have several stumps or hire a guy to do it for you. The time you spend cleaning the base of trees and sharpening chains just isn't worth it. We have a woodlot and I went one step further and bought a used stump grinder that needed some work. That machine has paid for itself many times over the past 12 years. I bet I have ground down over 100 stumps with it. I paid $1600 for it. It is Rayco 1665 stump grinder.
 
i keep a e tool in my truck , for digging out teh stump. the best i can, to save my chain. i wedge stumps . there is just a certain heigth. that really is bad. i try to really flush cut , where mowers or people walking are going to snag up on them. when you get to that last inch of stump and its bigger than your bar. its going to suck.

maybe a carbide chain,, kept just for stump cutting would work. i just hate changing chains.
 
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