Cutting wedges

[5crows]

I've been faced with cutting down some big dead oaks into firewood. During the process, I discovered during bucking, I could avoid a bunch of pinched chainsaw bars by using cutting wedges to pry open the top of the cut once I was about halfway through. I've used them for standing cuts, but hadn't thought to use them when bucking it on the ground. Worked great.

Probably not new news to the pro's, but worth mentioning. Cheers! Haven't posted in awhile!

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Works very well. Just keep your head back out of the way incase you nick one and send it flying fifteen feet.

 

[unclemoustache]

I've been faced with cutting down some big dead oaks into firewood. During the process, I discovered during bucking, I could avoid a bunch of pinched chainsaw bars by using cutting wedges to pry open the top of the cut once I was about halfway through. I've used them for standing cuts, but hadn't thought to use them when bucking it on the ground. Worked great.

Probably not new news to the pro's, but worth mentioning. Cheers! Haven't posted in awhile!

You mean plastic felling wedges or metal splitting wedges?



The plastic would be best for that job. And you're right - it is a handy little trick.

 

[peteduncan]

I've been faced with cutting down some big dead oaks into firewood. During the process, I discovered during bucking, I could avoid a bunch of pinched chainsaw bars by using cutting wedges to pry open the top of the cut once I was about halfway through. I've used them for standing cuts, but hadn't thought to use them when bucking it on the ground. Worked great.

Probably not new news to the pro's, but worth mentioning. Cheers! Haven't posted in awhile!

I'm only an occasional chainsaw user, but I've also used the plastic wedges in this way, and it usually works quite well. On a couple of occasions, when I did not have my wedges nearby, I used my chainsaw to create a wooden wedge that I could tap into the cut and avoid getting the saw pinched. The plastic felling wedges are more convenient though, and I usually try to have at least one with me when bucking logs of any significant size.

 

[3000 FPS]

I always have a plastic one in the back pocket when out cutting firewood. Sooner or later you will run into a situation where it will be needed when bucking up a tree.

 

[3000 FPS]

Works very well. Just keep your head back out of the way incase you nick one and send it flying fifteen feet.

Made me laugh I know what your are talking about.

 

[Brufab]

I don't even start my saw unless I have a minimum of 2 wedges with me. A wedge is one of the most powerful tools known to mankind

 

[ken morgan]

just last week I kicked a wedge out while bucking up a 32" elm up at fuji... the wedge smacked the sliding door window on the cabin and broke the glass out.

 

[c5rulz]

1st off I will qualify that I cut cable skidded logs that are very dirty. Technique is huge on keeping the chain sharp longer AND for not getting the bar stuck in large logs. So I do what my logger friends do while bucking logs on the landing.

A plunge cut is made about 3-4" from the top of the log. Stick the bar in till it is almost through to the back of the log, then cut down till you cut the bottom off then push the bar the rest of the way through and throw all the bark and debris out the far side of the log away from the power head. The log can't pinch because it still has wood at the top. Cut to the top and the log is completely cut and the bar wasn't pinched.

BTW, hard nosed bars, (old school) bore cut way better than a roller tip, paired with 404 semi chisel chain and you can handle dirt way better.

This is what some of the wood I cut looks like:

 

[3000 FPS]

I do not think I am going to get into plunge cutting logs to buck them up just so I do not have to use a wedge.
I well leave that to the pro's.

 

[Woody912]

I've been faced with cutting down some big dead oaks into firewood. During the process, I discovered during bucking, I could avoid a bunch of pinched chainsaw bars by using cutting wedges to pry open the top of the cut once I was about halfway through. I've used them for standing cuts, but hadn't thought to use them when bucking it on the ground. Worked great.

Probably not new news to the pro's, but worth mentioning. Cheers! Haven't posted in awhile!

You can actually pick the bottom of the log up off the dirt with this technique.

 

[whiplash1]

1st off I will qualify that I cut cable skidded logs that are very dirty. Technique is huge on keeping the chain sharp longer AND for not getting the bar stuck in large logs. So I do what my logger friends do while bucking logs on the landing.

A plunge cut is made about 3-4" from the top of the log. Stick the bar in till it is almost through to the back of the log, then cut down till you cut the bottom off then push the bar the rest of the way through and throw all the bark and debris out the far side of the log away from the power head. The log can't pinch because it still has wood at the top. Cut to the top and the log is completely cut and the bar wasn't pinched.

BTW, hard nosed bars, (old school) bore cut way better than a roller tip, paired with 404 semi chisel chain and you can handle dirt way better.

This is what some of the wood I cut looks like:

100%! Do this daily. Just saves a extra step and easier IMO

 

[Mad Professor]

If stuff is still off the ground plan your cuts so you can keep lengths off the ground.

Take small rounds and place under the log/tree where it will hold the bucked logs/pieces off the ground. Plan where you cut into log lengths so you can make those cuts without a pinch.

 

[Mad Professor]

One more thing. For bucking I don't like to use my plastic felling wedges, as they get beat up, and the metal splitting wedges got to be careful to not hit with the chain.

If you get some good hardwood you can make up your own wedges if you have a way to slice them up. Stuff like locust, beech, maple, oak works good.

 

[Brufab]

I do not think I am going to get into plunge cutting logs to buck them up just so I do not have to use a wedge.
I well leave that to the pro's.

Me too. I think attempting to do plunge cuts increases the chances of kick back. I could be wrong but that was my thought. Eventually it's a technique that is valuable and takes some time to master safely and effectively. I probly would not attempt without a modern saw with a chain brake.

 

[Brufab]

1st off I will qualify that I cut cable skidded logs that are very dirty. Technique is huge on keeping the chain sharp longer AND for not getting the bar stuck in large logs. So I do what my logger friends do while bucking logs on the landing.

A plunge cut is made about 3-4" from the top of the log. Stick the bar in till it is almost through to the back of the log, then cut down till you cut the bottom off then push the bar the rest of the way through and throw all the bark and debris out the far side of the log away from the power head. The log can't pinch because it still has wood at the top. Cut to the top and the log is completely cut and the bar wasn't pinched.

BTW, hard nosed bars, (old school) bore cut way better than a roller tip, paired with 404 semi chisel chain and you can handle dirt way better.

This is what some of the wood I cut looks like:

Wow you weren't kidding with the dirt in those pics.

 

[3000 FPS]

Me too. I think attempting to do plunge cuts increases the chances of kick back. I could be wrong but that was my thought. Eventually it's a technique that is valuable and takes some time to master safely and effectively. I probly would not attempt without a modern saw with a chain brake.

I am just a firewood cutter and do about 20 trees a year up in the mountains. It does not really matter to me if a I save 60 seconds by doing a plunge cut instead of using a wedge. Plus like you said if your not familiar with the plunge cut then there is the chance of kick back.

 

[ken morgan]

I have used the plunge cut method before but there are times when using a wedge just works better for me

 

[mountainguyed67]

If stuff is still off the ground plan your cuts so you can keep lengths off the ground.

Take small rounds and place under the log/tree where it will hold the bucked logs/pieces off the ground.

I was doing this once on a National Forest Road and three Jeeps came from the other direction, wanting me to pull the tree out of the road so they could get by. I told them if I did that I’d pull it off the limbs, and then be running my saw chain into the ground. This left them puzzled and asking how I got the limbs under there. I said it wasn’t all the way on the ground, and I put limbs under there before I made my first bucking cut. They were still upset that I wouldn’t clear the road for them. I told them if I wasn’t there they would be going back the way they came, which was a long way around. They went away in a huff. When I got it cleared they came by in a better mood, and saying I was right about them having to go back the way they came if I wasn‘t there. And they thanked me.

 

[mountainguyed67]

I've been faced with cutting down some big dead oaks into firewood. During the process, I discovered during bucking, I could avoid a bunch of pinched chainsaw bars by using cutting wedges to pry open the top of the cut once I was about halfway through. I've used them for standing cuts, but hadn't thought to use them when bucking it on the ground. Worked great.

I took the thread title as “Cutting into the wedges with the saw”. As I know them as felling wedges, not cutting wedges. I volunteer with the Forest Service, and a few years ago one of the crew was telling me what kept happening. Another on the crew kept cutting up the wedges while doing felling cuts. I asked if it was little cuts, he said no he’s cutting them in half. The guy telling the story would find these and write “Thanks for your hard work this season, and the guys name”, then leave them where the crew would see them inside the truck. Ha ha.