Cylinder honing

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Well I will be damned. It must be a special model. It has a 311Y sticker too.

Now.....about that blade.

The guy at the saw shop tried to sell me some sort of chisel chain attachment for it, but I can't find the hammer setting to run that.

I just want a dang regular blade.

Blades are over rated and dangerous, better be very careful if using a blade on a chainsaw.
 
Am I the ony one who glass bead cylinders to get rid of aluminium transfer?
I've done it on a dozen or so saws, and it always works great.
 
I just lightly honed my cylinder for my 2100 husky. The cross hatch holds oil to keep the piston lubed. The horizontal lines in the piston also holds oil. I use the ball hone for nickasil cylinders. With chrome you want a nice tight cross hatch. I put the ball hone in front of the bore. A short burst of the trigger clockwise I go in to the chamber. Then it’s a short burst coming out clockwise. Then a burst counter clockwise in, then a burst counter clockwise out. Usually that’s enough of a cross hatch. I’m not changing the bore size, I’m just putting the cross hatch back in it. Don’t run the hone continuously, just short bursts in and out for the best cross hatch results.

www.enginehones.com

https://www.enginehones.com/niapho.html

To hone or not to hone? My local husky factory authorized dealer hones every used cylinder. I notice the hidden flaws will show up more after honing. I don’t hone much just enough to lightly have a cross hatch. Without honing the rings will take longer to break in.

Once the cylinder is honed and cleaned I burnish a moly paste into the pores of the metal of the bore. I burnish moly into the skirt of the piston. I then apply the two stroke oil to the rings, top wrist pin needle bearing, the rod bearing, and flow some oil to the crank bearings. I put some oil on the cylinder walls just a little. Then assemble. Don’t forget to pre lube the new seals, before there installed.
 
I just purchased a nearly new (2 hours) Stihl MS362 with a cooked piston and aluminum transfer slathered
inside the bore.I have removed most all of the aluminum residue with 400 grit Wet or Dry and good ole
WD40 to create a slurry.
I'm going to test this out and will let you know how it works,i have positive vibes that it will work just fine.
It's an experiment,we'll see.
 
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