Cylinder Porting for Dummies....

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Yes, I was talking about the piston skirt coverage also.

Good stuff, so about 1-2mm or .075" for the piston skirt coverage and not more than 70% of the bore.

For the bevel around .040" in the center and less toward the sides.

Has anyone had experience with different intake bottom shapes as noted in the Gordon Jennings book like the v-bottom, etc?
 
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My ported saw is now up and running ,i have used it for a few days now and it is pulling strong ,the compression was 165 when cold after i put it together. Is it not posible to adjust the carb to make it ower rew ? the full speed does not increase much when adjusted.
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Is it not posible to adjust the carb to make it ower rew ? the full speed does not

Hmmmm?

Does not sound right, have you removed limiter caps?

Any saw I have seen with HS and LS jets you can lean it down so it's far too lean and reving like mad. well except the saw with limited coils, when modded they are a pain to tune right.
 
I need help modding an Echo saw with a reed valve.
Anyone out theredone any work on porting and modifiying a reed valve chainsaw.
Any other website that may be able to help??
Thanks
Greg
 
nah im sure thats not banned for life.

thatl only happend to me over something weird im sure, i think ive been leaning that way latly, with negetive points all over the place
 
Is it okay to nix the base gasket and put the cylinder directly on the case only using sealer, if that is what you need to do to get the correct squish???
Thanks
 
Do a google search for "porting theory". You'll find some very long threads with tons of good info. Really helped me get into porting.
 
Sorry to revive a 13 month dormant thread, but I'm wondering if any of you porting fellas will accept a new aftermarket 034AV "big bore" jug and do a basic woods port on it and mail it back to me without breaking the bank?

I know the heavy-hitter porting guys are booked solid several months out and want the whole powerhead to tune it to the max to demonstrate the full potential of what they can do, but I'm not really needing the full Monty here. I would not expect any sort of guarantee seeing as to how it IS aftermarket but would certainly like to have just a bit more oomphhh out there in the back 40 without sacrificing too much reliability and without adding weight [really don't want to have to drop down to the 009 weight class just yet despite pushing 70...].

I will use new OEM circlips on the pin, do a decent breakin with a fairly rich mix for the first 3 or so tanks and not badmouth anyone even if it blew up on the first start since there would be so many variables in the mix [aftermarket p&c/rookie saw mechanic here/saw with ancient bottom end, etc].

How about it? Any takers?

Ran a 20" bar on this thing for 25+ yrs and just put a 24" on it [durn trees musta grown some-needed to cut several 18-20" Doug firs and a 20" 3-stem pine that were starting to threaten the house...].

While it did this job well, I would love to have that extra grunt with the 24" to turn those butts into firewood.

Saw has had one new air filter and one new recoil starter, the usual plug, clutch and b/c replacements. Also had to replace lost dogs once. Never have replaced fuel or impulse lines. I've never even retightened the cylinder bolts. Amazingly enough, it is still on the original brake band! Has heated my house unfailingly for all those years, and I got it from my Dad after he had used it for several years.

I even abused it unknowingly by using outboard 2-cycle oil for a number of years, although I have always mixed closer to 40:1 than 50:1. Also used to run it bone-dry before refueling sometimes. Ignorance is bliss, they say-
 
Problem with the AM jugs is the plating likes to flake off. I've ground Hwy cylinders before that had that issue. Did a 288xp meteor cylinder once though that had no issues. It's a gamble for anyone to grind on one is what I'm getting at. Ask around for a OEM cylinder. I just sold a 036 jug last week..
 
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