Do all Stihl 064’s have adjustable bar oiling?

[jbarker]

Hello all – I’ve been having some trouble with lack of oil to my bar on my 064. The bar is getting sizzling hot on the bottom. Chain is sharp and tensioned properly. Oil reservoir is full. I cleaned the bar and made sure the oil holes in the bar are clean. I cleaned up the oil outlet on the outside of the powerhead. I get just a TINY little bit of oil off the tip of the bar when held in front of cardboard. When I remove the bar from the saw, I get just a very sluggish, occasional drip out of the powerhead with saw gently revved. On the bottom of the power head, there is an image embossed on the plastic to suggest the saw has adjustable oiling, but there is no hole that I can see anywhere to adjust the oiling. Can anyone show me a picture and where the screw is to adjust the oil?

I tore down the clutch side of the saw. There was a LOT of old looking oil caked sawdust in there. Clutch seems to be contaminated with oil, but interestingly it was not slipping at all. There was no obvious signs of fresh oil spilling out in there. I’m just looking for any advice on how best to proceed. The worm gear looked to be in good shape. I have read that the oil line from the pump tends to be leak prone, but I have also read that is a real pain in the butt to replace so I would rather not do that unless I am sure of the problem. Thanks in advance for any help!
-Jay

 

[irhunter]

I would remove the clutch...clean out all around the oil pump...maybe, then, you'll see what's going on.

Or, post a pic of the exposed oil pump, and someone here will help.

Welcome to AS.

Roy

 

[Mad Professor]

They had adjustable pumps.

Clean out all around under the clutch and around oil pump, and oil pickup filter in the tank. Look for cracks/tears in pickup hose/oil line in the tank and the pump output line. Clean out the filter. Handy to have a long set of hemostats to pull out oil pick up/filter from tank.

If nothing is amiss put the clutch back on and start it, look for leaks. Make sure the oil pump spring engages the clutch drum.

If no oil leaks and no oiling, take off/loosen oil tank filler cap. If it oils then you might have a clogged tank vent. Tank vent is a press fit on clutch side case, located just above bar studs and chain adjuster.

If you need to replace the oil outlet line get the kit from Stihl and be sure to install the spring inside the line. Lots of threads on replacing these lines, they were used on many Stihls (eg 034/036).

I have 064/066 service manual pdf, but it's too big to attach here.

 

[SteveSr]

Hello all – I’ve been having some trouble with lack of oil to my bar on my 064. The bar is getting sizzling hot on the bottom. Chain is sharp and tensioned properly. Oil reservoir is full. I cleaned the bar and made sure the oil holes in the bar are clean. I cleaned up the oil outlet on the outside of the powerhead. I get just a TINY little bit of oil off the tip of the bar when held in front of cardboard. When I remove the bar from the saw, I get just a very sluggish, occasional drip out of the powerhead with saw gently revved. On the bottom of the power head, there is an image embossed on the plastic to suggest the saw has adjustable oiling, but there is no hole that I can see anywhere to adjust the oiling. Can anyone show me a picture and where the screw is to adjust the oil?

I tore down the clutch side of the saw. There was a LOT of old looking oil caked sawdust in there. Clutch seems to be contaminated with oil, but interestingly it was not slipping at all. There was no obvious signs of fresh oil spilling out in there. I’m just looking for any advice on how best to proceed. The worm gear looked to be in good shape. I have read that the oil line from the pump tends to be leak prone, but I have also read that is a real pain in the butt to replace so I would rather not do that unless I am sure of the problem. Thanks in advance for any help!
-Jay

These oil pumps can collect sawdust in the pump which will limit piston travel and oil flow. The fix is to remove, disassemble, clean, and reinstall the pump. If you have to remove the pump to replace hoses you might as well do this. Then you'll know for sure...

 

[jbarker]

Thanks for the advice gentlemen. Under the clutch is definitely a dirty mess and I definitely cannot see what’s going on right now so cleaning it out sounds like a smart idea. I will start working on that. Thank you for the link to the exploded diagram of the 064. Can anyone share where the adjuster is on the oil pump or how to adjust it? I’ll attach a picture of the oil pump area before I clean it.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Damaged plastic worm drive- or tip of the worm gear actuation rod busted off and not making contact- or tip of rod not engaged into the groove of the clutch bell?

From underside of saw, screwdriver shows channel for pump adjustment screw.



With clutch removed screwdriver tip showing positional location of adjustment screw.

 

[irhunter]

Now would be a good time to remove the chain brake cover, and clean that area out as well.

 

[jbarker]

Cleaned out behind the clutch. I don’t see any obvious problems there, except that there was about one cubic yard of sawdust in there. I grabbed the filter inside the oil tank but the pick up hose was so short that I could only get it to within about an inch of the exit of the tank. I hit it with compressed air. Not sure if that really did anything. Put it all back together and I am now getting oil from the pump.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Cleaned out behind the clutch. I don’t see any obvious problems there, except that there was about one cubic yard of sawdust in there. I grabbed the filter inside the oil tank but the pick up hose was so short that I could only get it to within about an inch of the exit of the tank. I hit it with compressed air. Not sure if that really did anything. Put it all back together and I am now getting oil from the pump.

You undo the two bolts holding the pump in place- flip the pump up out of the way and pull the oil pick up line from the pump side of the case- the pump holds and seals by crush the line to the case, so trying to pull the filter through the filler hole will tear the oil line if you persist.

 

[jbarker]

So I thought that oil flow looked pretty good. I put the bar back on, and I am still getting almost no visible spray from the end of the bar when held next to cardboard. Took the clutch cover off again, and there’s oil dripping all over the place. Took the clutch off, and the inside looks pretty clean. I think I am leaking oil where the bar meets the body of the saw. I cleaned up the bar real nice (it was already clean really) and the problem persists. Tons of oil under the clutch cover. Tried a different bar, and the problem was unchanged. I double and triple checked that the holes in the bar are clear.
So….. i’m thinking the problem is that I have a leak between the bar and the inner side plate (that stainless steel piece that the bar presses against). i’m starting to wonder if this problem is self-inflicted. Right before this problem began, I was replaced my broken rear handle. In my efforts to take the saw apart, I recall prying on that side plate to get to the plug behind it. I thought I was gentle and didn’t bend it, and I really see no visible damage, but now I question if I messed it up.

 

[jbarker]

Hey Bob – by the way, thanks so much for taking the time to send pictures on where that oil adjustment bolt is. I see it now. Man, that thing was really camouflaged under the dirt!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Video appears to show sufficient supply of oil to the correct region- are you sure you have a D025 bar fitted to the saw?
I have seen inner bar cover plates look WAY worse than that and the saw still oils fine.
I was going to suggest a cracked oil line from pump to oil delivery gallery- but the video shows oil coming out where oil needs to come out- so I believe your problem lays within the oil gallery to bar rail- is the chain well worn on the drivers? Bar rails well worn?
Are you more used to running Husqvarna saws and oil flying about the place? Stihls are more economic in the oiler department as a rule.

In regards to your pump adjustment screw- still seems to be plenty of muck jammed in there when you blow up the photo- you got an air compressor?
I would give that area a good solvent soak and blow out with compressed air- wear eye protection! Solvent soaked lumps of oily decomposing sawdust sting eyeballs!

 

[jbarker]

I attached a picture of the bar I am using. I have been using this bar/chain combo for many years and this is the first time I have noticed the bar overheating. I’m not sure what you mean by the chain driver/bar rails being “well worn”. I suppose I would consider them to be worn in but in acceptable shape. A small burr was on the lower edge of the bar, probably from when it overheated the other day. I filed it off. I don’t think this is just an issue of Stihl being thrifty on oil, as there is clearly a problem (the bar gets sizzling hot). I agree with you that the side plate looks pristine. I don’t know if this is relevant or not, but when I look at the exploded diagram that the mad Professor provided, there are two side plates. One has tangs to hold the bar in place and the other seems more of a flat plate with just holes in it (part #17 on page 4 of the madprofessor’s pdf). I am missing that one- part #17. Didn’t realize that until about an hour ago. Don’t know if it’s supposed to stay attached to the clutch cover or what? Maybe that would explain my problem?
Regarding the pump screw, I was able to get all the junk cleared out of it, and actually see that there is in fact a screw down there! Many thanks once again for showing me where that is.
So, I think I have narrowed down the problem – I at least know that the pump is working properly. But still haven’t reached the finish line yet.

 

[huskihl]

Oil dripping from the clutch cover is good. Means it’s flying off the chain as it comes back around the drive sprocket.

On your adjuster, some older ones would turn out multiple turns to the left to allow more oil. More current models turn 1/4 turn to the right for max

 

[huskihl]

I attached a picture of the bar I am using. I have been using this bar/chain combo for many years and this is the first time I have noticed the bar overheating. I’m not sure what you mean by the chain driver/bar rails being “well worn”. I suppose I would consider them to be worn in but in acceptable shape. A small burr was on the lower edge of the bar, probably from when it overheated the other day. I filed it off. I don’t think this is just an issue of Stihl being thrifty on oil, as there is clearly a problem (the bar gets sizzling hot). I agree with you that the side plate looks pristine. I don’t know if this is relevant or not, but when I look at the exploded diagram that the mad Professor provided, there are two side plates. One has tangs to hold the bar in place and the other seems more of a flat plate with just holes in it (part #17 on page 4 of the madprofessor’s pdf). I am missing that one- part #17. Didn’t realize that until about an hour ago. Don’t know if it’s supposed to stay attached to the clutch cover or what? Maybe that would explain my problem?
Regarding the pump screw, I was able to get all the junk cleared out of it, and actually see that there is in fact a screw down there! Many thanks once again for showing me where that is.
So, I think I have narrowed down the problem – I at least know that the pump is working properly. But still haven’t reached the finish line yet.

There are 2 different bar plates. One attaches with a screw. The other style wedges over the bar studs like yours. You only need 1 or the other, not both.

It’s entirely possible that the oil entry hole in your bar is too small. Some use a diamond or carbide burr to open it up

 

[SteveSr]

So I thought that oil flow looked pretty good. I put the bar back on, and I am still getting almost no visible spray from the end of the bar when held next to cardboard. Took the clutch cover off again, and there’s oil dripping all over the place. Took the clutch off, and the inside looks pretty clean. I think I am leaking oil where the bar meets the body of the saw. I cleaned up the bar real nice (it was already clean really) and the problem persists. Tons of oil under the clutch cover. Tried a different bar, and the problem was unchanged. I double and triple checked that the holes in the bar are clear.
So….. i’m thinking the problem is that I have a leak between the bar and the inner side plate (that stainless steel piece that the bar presses against). i’m starting to wonder if this problem is self-inflicted. Right before this problem began, I was replaced my broken rear handle. In my efforts to take the saw apart, I recall prying on that side plate to get to the plug behind it. I thought I was gentle and didn’t bend it, and I really see no visible damage, but now I question if I messed it up.

Is there a burr on the inner side plate near the bar studs that is preventing the bar from seating properly? You can also try mounting the bar with spacers/washers instead of the clutch cover so you can actually see what is going on.

 

[stihltech]

If you hold the pump worm by the center, can you spin the arm on the worm? If so, you nee a new worm.

 

[jbarker]

Huskihl- thanks for clarifying on the side plates. That makes sense.

Stihltech- arm on the worm gear is nice and tight.

Steve- I see no burr on the side plate. but I like your idea of mounting the bar with spacers/washers so I can see what’s going on.

 

[angelo c]

Have you cleaned out the rails of the bar thoroughly? Sometimes that helps. Also I've used mix in the oil tank or straight gas a few times and run some through the oiler and freed up some funky stuffs a time er two.
The saw is clean now so remove the bar and clutch cover and piss run it some to see where the oil is coming from. If it's not all coming out the oiler port you may have a pinched or damaged line.