Spottedgum
ArboristSite Lurker
When the timber is old or brittle, or the tree has to fall against it's weight/wind/lean, and it has to fall with the hinge attached at least 1/3 it's fall arc = I use a "long hinge".
20 years in the industry without formal training. My work is in domestic situations where you are removing trees around houses, pools, sheds, power lines, and other breakable obstacles.
The timber is either waste or firewood, so the structure of the fallen log doesn't matter. What does matter is a controlled, precise fall - often against the natural fall of the tree.
I have used this regularly on "back leaners" up to 30 deg, big "side leaners" (so the hinge doesn't "pop" until the tree is past 1/2 arc), and timber that is dry or brittle.
The "long hinge" maintains a hinge until the tree is falling in such a way as it's fall direction is set, regardless of lean, weight or wind.
Just curious if anyone else uses this method, as there are no references to it I can find.
First you attach a rope and winch (if required) to pull the tree in the direction of fall.
The width and length of the long hinge is based on experience. It can be cut in the centre of the tree or offset toward the sappier wood either way. Often the long hinge may be not parrallell - with the wider part on the high side of a side leaner.
First the hinge is bore cut and ripped to size on both sides.
On a side leaner you cut fall kerf out, then cut the back fall cut 2/3 across from the lean side, belt in a wedge, and cut the remainder of the back cut. If your hinge is too fat, and it won't fall, bore and rip a bit off the back side of the long hinge and cut it through from the fall/wedge cut. (or use a winch)
On a back leaner, take the tension on the winch rope, 2/3cut, wedge and finish the back fall cut, remove the front fall kerf, and winch the tree over.
Like I said = it isn't for forestry, it's for problem trees that can cause damage to surrounding infrastructure.
20 years in the industry without formal training. My work is in domestic situations where you are removing trees around houses, pools, sheds, power lines, and other breakable obstacles.
The timber is either waste or firewood, so the structure of the fallen log doesn't matter. What does matter is a controlled, precise fall - often against the natural fall of the tree.
I have used this regularly on "back leaners" up to 30 deg, big "side leaners" (so the hinge doesn't "pop" until the tree is past 1/2 arc), and timber that is dry or brittle.
The "long hinge" maintains a hinge until the tree is falling in such a way as it's fall direction is set, regardless of lean, weight or wind.
Just curious if anyone else uses this method, as there are no references to it I can find.
First you attach a rope and winch (if required) to pull the tree in the direction of fall.
The width and length of the long hinge is based on experience. It can be cut in the centre of the tree or offset toward the sappier wood either way. Often the long hinge may be not parrallell - with the wider part on the high side of a side leaner.
First the hinge is bore cut and ripped to size on both sides.
On a side leaner you cut fall kerf out, then cut the back fall cut 2/3 across from the lean side, belt in a wedge, and cut the remainder of the back cut. If your hinge is too fat, and it won't fall, bore and rip a bit off the back side of the long hinge and cut it through from the fall/wedge cut. (or use a winch)
On a back leaner, take the tension on the winch rope, 2/3cut, wedge and finish the back fall cut, remove the front fall kerf, and winch the tree over.
Like I said = it isn't for forestry, it's for problem trees that can cause damage to surrounding infrastructure.
