Does Partial Shade Reduce Stress on Newly Planted Trees?

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Fishin' Rod

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Location
Central Kansas
I have planted over 150 trees at our farm in southern Kansas and am trying to decrease my tree mortality going forward. I have planted mostly oaks, hybrid oaks, persimmons, and pear trees. I will continue to add more trees and more species in the future.

We only average 25-30" of precipitation/year and have loam to sandy loam soils. "Too dry" is the most common stress on the trees and we live about 45 minutes from the property, so I have missed some times over the last two years that they needed water.

The most surprising thing I have observed is that some of the newly planted trees that have had tall big bluestem grass or volunteer trees grow up around them, is that those trees have frequently fared BETTER than the nearby trees that have experienced otherwise identical conditions.

I felt bad that I couldn't keep up with my spraying and clearing duties because I thought the grass/trees would steal the moisture from my planted trees. Instead, it appears that the partial shading has actually helped these trees survive the tough conditions at our farm?

Does anyone have any good advice for trees planted in dry, windy, rural environments that WILL NOT get all of the TLC as a single tree planted in a backyard? More specifically, are there any good studies that show using shade cloth, etc. might be beneficial to trees in harsh, dry conditions?

Thanks,
Rod
 
what you were referring to is called green mulch by gardeners and while they will pull some nutrients and moisture from the soil having green growing things around the tree does provide some shade and helps retain moisture
I believe in in areas with plenty of rain the competition from the grasses is not beneficial but in areas that are very dry with Sandy soil I believe you would see a benefit to the retention of moisture in the soil
 
To help the tree establish faster dig the planting hole 2-3x wider than needed to provide loose soil for rapid root growth, mix in composted manure and peat for extra nutrients and added water retention. Shade reduces the water needs during the heat of the day and allows dew more time to be absorbed in the mornings before the sun evaporates it. Avoid fertilizing if drought is likely.
 
Thanks for the help!

I did dig the holes about 2x what the root balls needed, and then mixed in about 30% peat moss to increase the organic content in our sandy soils.

It seems so counter-intuitive to me to leave the weeds and the grass. However, for the trees that I have cleared around and DID NOT subsequently make mulch circles, they fared the worst. The soil clearly became baked, even during the periods when I was able to supply adequate water.

At this point, do you think light colored cedar mulch would be better than my "green mulch", which is highly variable around our trees?
 
The light colored cedar mulch would be good just don't mound it up right next to the trunk The cedar mulch will shade the soil just like the green mulch but without competition for nutrients and water I would put the cedar mulch 2-3 inches thick except right next to the truck where it should slope to level with the trunk and the top of the rootball
Of course the top of the rootball is planted level with the existing grade
 
Thanks dboyd!

I talked to a guy that used to work on the tree planting crew for our city. He gave the exact same advice you did.

I think I am going to install a 12" tall circle of chicken wire around the base of the trunk to stop the larger "chewers" and just close it with a zip tie. I can then mulch up to the cage and leave the trunk clear.

I can then remove the cage and hand weed as needed, and then re-install the cage and push the mulch back to it's proper place.
 
The peat moss might actually be preventing water absorption in the cleared plots. Those plots are exposed to sun and wind and have probably dried out far more than the vegetated plots. Once peat moss dries completely it repels water.
 
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