Dolmar throwing chains

[J D]

Its 20-25 bucks for a shorter bar/chain with a bigger tip which will eliminate your issues. Been there done that on 4216 poulans with the exact same bar/chain and very similar spur sprocket as your dolmar.
The rim sprocket will help too but a short bar that doesnt let the chain derail is easier and cheaper.
There's 2 ways to fix this either one will get the job done.

Be mindful that while it will run "better", a larger tip will also be more prone to kickback

 

[TRTermite]

Be mindful that while it will run "better", a larger tip will also be more prone to kickback

I have always thought the Hard nose bars with a larger tip kicked less, but they were 404 chain on slower running saws.

 

[redhawk23]

I wonder if this wobbly chain on spur sprocket theory is why a shop owner early on suggested shortening the chain by a link.
So the options suggested so far are:
1. Modify existing sprocket
2. Go to rim sprocket
3. Go to 14” bar

does anyone know if a rim sprocket exists for this saw?

 

[TRTermite]

I wonder if this wobbly chain on spur sprocket theory is why a shop owner early on suggested shortening the chain by a link.
So the options suggested so far are:
1. Modify existing sprocket
2. Go to rim sprocket
3. Go to 14” bar

does anyone know if a rim sprocket exists for this saw?

some one mentioned member F150 is a dealer so I would assume he is closed for the weekend and maybe the holiday Private message him so he knows you are in need, and please report back

 

[tomalophicon]

Any images of this modified sprocket or information on where to get it if it can be purchased.
I read somewhere such a sprocket was available for the 35 size Makita / Dolmar saws, and it
was an update Makita / Dolmar made themselves.

Something like this
Would be easy to modify existing sprocket to match.

 

[Franny K]

The rim drive conversion had been discussed before on this forum. I believe it is from the 50cc saw but also use a small washer perhaps 0.2mm thick. I have it and forgot to remove it last time going to spur and it did not cause a problem. The parts sheet only shows spur sprockets for 2 pitches as can be seen.

 

[redhawk23]

Something like this
Would be easy to modify existing sprocket to match.

I’ll send it to you?

 

[link]

I have experienced my EA3200 derail, but only because I am careless.
Do you use pressurized air to clean the bar seat before you mount it? Do you use your saw rough and carelessly when at work?
My 5105 with a .058 bar/chain don't do that, ever. But with the smaller saw, chains, you need to stop treating it like a waste.

 

[redhawk23]

Redhawk - let me pass on my experience with throwing chains and what I think I learned. First I consider myself to be an experienced sawyer - but not a professional -, with LOTS of saws, and throwing a chain was not particular to any one of them. I tighten my chains like thenne1713 recommends - any looser definitely increases your chance of throwing a chain.
I typically do falling, bucking, and limbing when cutting and I would usually throw a chain everyday, sometimes two a day. Very frustrating.
I eventually accepted the fact that throwing a chain had to be caused by something I was doing. First I started looking at when I was throwing chains - what was I doing? I never threw a chain falling or bucking. Some times I was limbing, but, ALMOST ALWAYS, I was using the saw to clear brush or low stumping. So this is what I think I figured out and what I did. I may not be correct, but I very rarely throw chains anymore as long as I don’t let them get loose.
First clearing brush (and limbing) - I would be running the saw at high rpm in lots of small limbs and twigs. When you rev the saw, even with a snug chain, the centrifugal force can pull the chain TOTALLY out of the bar slot leaving a gap between the chain and bar. If you get a twig in that gap under the chain you are going to throw it. My fix - I throttle the RPMs a little when clearing brush and No thrown chains.
Low Stumping - threw a lot of chains doing this until I started wedging any stump over about 12” diameter. My theory is that when the weight of the stump sits back on the kerf it pinches the chain on the bar this somehow results in a thrown chain. Right? Wrong? All I can say is that if I has my wedge when low stumping I never throw a chain anymore.
Hope this may be help …

What do you think about the opinions that the sprocket is the problem, that it should be replaced with a rim or modified or that I should use a shorter bar? Again, what does the sprocket have to do with losing a chain when it’s initiated at the nose? So, drive links being pried out isn’t the culprit? It’s because the drive links aren’t perfectly vertical on the sprocket?

 

[redhawk23]

I have experienced my EA3200 derail, but only because I am careless.
Do you use pressurized air to clean the bar seat before you mount it? Do you use your saw rough and carelessly when at work?
My 5105 with a .058 bar/chain don't do that, ever. But with the smaller saw, chains, you need to stop treating it like a waste.

“But with the smaller saw, chains, you need to stop treating it like a waste.”

why?

 

[link]

“But with the smaller saw, chains, you need to stop treating it like a waste.”

why?

Well, if you want solid indestructable - buy a Husky 395. Is that what you need?

 

[Fatherwheels]

Take your / OP 's saw to a machine shop and ask them to make you a solid bar,
and a drive sprocket with a guard around it to keep the chain on.
Make all this to suit .404 chain, so it doesn't snap.

 

[link]

Take your / OP 's saw to a machine shop and ask them to make you a solid bar,
and a drive sprocket with a guard around it to keep the chain on.
Make all this to suit .404 chain, so it doesn't snap.

You bad bad man.

 

[Fatherwheels]

You bad bad man.

I couldn't resist, when will anyone get the chance again.

 

[oldbuzzard]

What do you think about the opinions that the sprocket is the problem, that it should be replaced with a rim or modified or that I should use a shorter bar? Again, what does the sprocket have to do with losing a chain when it’s initiated at the nose? So, drive links being pried out isn’t the culprit? It’s because the drive links aren’t perfectly vertical on the sprocket?

My suggestion at this point would be to shotgun the bar/chain/sprocket to make sure they all match up, probably. 16” bar.

 

[tomalophicon]

I’ll send it to you?

I have 3 kids, a wife and 5 saws of my own. I'm about to start demolishing my kitchen while juggling full-time employment.
No thanks.

 

[redhawk23]

My suggestion at this point would be to shotgun the bar/chain/sprocket to make sure they all match up, probably. 16” bar.

I have, they match

 

[oldbuzzard]

My suggestion at this point would be to shotgun the bar/chain/sprocket to make sure they all match up, probably. 16” bar

 

[oldbuzzard]

How are you using the saw - falling, limbing, firewood? How often are you throwing a chain?