Dolmar throwing chains

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I ran small cheap saws for years all with 3/8lp bar and chains.
Every time I used a 16 inch bar/chain I threw the chain at some point while cutting, they're too long and flimsy, they literally bend and toss the chain if your not super careful.
I switched to 14 inch bars and rarely ever toss a chain now, I'd buy a new 14 inch large nose bar/chain for the saw.
 
I ran small cheap saws for years all with 3/8lp bar and chains.
Every time I used a 16 inch bar/chain I threw the chain at some point while cutting, they're too long and flimsy, they literally bend and toss the chain if your not super careful.
I switched to 14 inch bars and rarely ever toss a chain now, I'd buy a new 14 inch large nose bar/chain for the saw.
A decent 16” bar doesn’t exist? I have a woodland pro now. Does Stihl make anything to fit a Makita?
 
a 16 inch bar/chain I threw the chain at some point while cutting, they're too long and flimsy
A 16" bar is too long and flimsy? Somewhere in this mess I recall somebody, and I thought it was the OP but I'm probably wrong, saying that they were using a narrow kerf bar. Those are of lighter construction and more susceptible to being bent out of alignment through operator inputs that straighten out when the torque is taken off the bar. If it wasn't the OP who said that,...never mind.
More like the chain adjusters on the "cheap" saws were to blame. When saws become small and cheap, not only do they resemble my last ex-wife, they often do a poor job of maintaining proper tension sometimes with cheap screws instead of hardened parts and plastic pieces where they should have metal.
 
A decent 16” bar doesn’t exist? I have a woodland pro now. Does Stihl make anything to fit a Makita?
Stihl makes their bars so it is hard to make brand x work on them because they put the oil input hole high and far to the rear. A 3005 code Stihl bar can quite easily be made to fit the Oregon 041 code or the 095 code for that matter. I regularly convert the 12" 44 drive link 0.043 gauge bar to fit various pole saws and top handle saw as well. I did a 16" one to fit my Echo 361 lately (same mount as your Makita here 041) it did involve some puddy like epoxy to keep the oil from escaping in some manner. I told you a long time back about the shape of the bar in this thread and you seemed to state you have used all sorts or nose diameter and curvature. Or something approaching that. I kind of think the Stihl bars have a bit more research put into them. Going to .325 chain on that saw will give you somewhat larger drive links and somewhat closer spacing. It is amusing the folks that say all the years and hardly any thrown chains. In cutting a branch from a trunk or similar the branch can move in such a manner as it separates and the chain comes off kind of like if you don't like heat stay out of the kitchen. Nibbling away in the correct spot will definitely lessen this occurrence.

Here is an internet address for a solid replaceable nose bar in 3/8lp. Not sure if it would be any less likely to throw a chain though. There was a seller a few years ago with real good prices on these which may or may not have been seconds. I bought one through the Stens distributorship before that. http://www.gbforestry.com.au/store/chainsaw-products/chainsaw-bars/arbor-tech-bar
 
A decent 16” bar doesn’t exist? I have a woodland pro now. Does Stihl make anything to fit a Makita?

The bars I was running were oregon small poulan mount bars from the hardware store with the small tip. I now use chinese laser or no name 14 inch 3/8 lp bars with the bigger tip and dont have chain throwing issues, the slightly shorter bigger tipped bar is quite a bit stiffer.
This isnt a saw issue its a bar/chain issue, my cheap little poulans or top handles hardly ever throw a chain with the 14 inch bars but do it a lot with small tipped 16's.
I used a stihl 023 bar on my 50cc chinese saw to run 3/8 lp but it has a sperate oil hole like the bigger .325 bars not the oil through adjuster hole setup you need on the little saws. You could make that bar work if you wanted but you'd have to move the oiler hole.

High quality 3/8lp bars for that saw do exist, I just picked up a 14 windsor 3/8 lp from the hardware store, its a good stiff bar with replaceable nose sprocket for the little saws, it was on their shelf for years. I drilled an oil hole in it and put it on a 50cc saw but it would've fit the dolmar great as is.
 
Loosing chains seems to be more prevalent with small saws. Do the bigger heavier chains offer more resistance to whatever is separating 3/8 LP chains from the bar? I’m wondering if I’d be happier using a big saw with a big chain and a short bar.
 
Its the bigger stronger bars, you could stick the stock bar in a cut or vise and twist the saw around with ease if you wanted to.
The drivers are the same size on full sized 3/8 and 3/8lp so big chain on its own wont help.
IMO the light 16 inch bars are on there for advertising as people think the saw will cut bigger wood with the longer bar but the small saws work better with 12-14 inch bars.
 
A 16" bar is too long and flimsy? Somewhere in this mess I recall somebody, and I thought it was the OP but I'm probably wrong, saying that they were using a narrow kerf bar. Those are of lighter construction and more susceptible to being bent out of alignment through operator inputs that straighten out when the torque is taken off the bar. If it wasn't the OP who said that,...never mind.
More like the chain adjusters on the "cheap" saws were to blame. When saws become small and cheap, not only do they resemble my last ex-wife, they often do a poor job of maintaining proper tension sometimes with cheap screws instead of hardened parts and plastic pieces where they should have metal.
Yep, pulling on the saw when its stuck or pinched, or allowing the saw to rotate in your hands
when cutting can do in one of these light bars, I have the EA4300 with 15 inch .325 NK and no trouble.
You got to handle these light bars with caution, not saying the 420 is heavy, but it will twist a bar if
you are not careful.
This is the OP's second similar saw, he is putting crank bearings into his other one, it looks like it did
no work at all, something is a drift here.
 
Do the bigger heavier chains offer more resistance to whatever is separating 3/8 LP chains from the bar?

The drivers are the same size on full sized 3/8 and 3/8lp so big chain on its own wont help.
CAE9F261-F17E-45E3-AC16-74D438724500.jpeg
Took a quick photo of a couple of chains hanging on the wall. Not the same brand, and these are both used, but top chain is full size 3/8 inch pitch, and bottom chain is 3/8 low profile “picco“ type chain.

Not counting any low kick back bumpers, the depth gauge on the full size 3/8 chain measured about 0.53” (top to bottom), and about 0.45” on the low profile chain.

It’s the part below the tie strap that matters, and the tips can wear off, but this gives you a general idea why smaller pitch chains may be more prone to jumping out of the bar groove. The lighter, thinner, chain chassis probably also makes it easier to get pried over the bar groove edge.

Philbert
 
Here's a couple of pics of different 3/8lp bars, that fit these small saws.
From top to bottom, chinese laser, no name chinese stihl 023 etc, stock small husky/oregon single rivet, windsor mini pro.
The stock husky/poulan/dolmar/oregon single rivet/etc is the worst one for throwing chains, even the cheapy chinese ones are an upgrade.
DSCN0310 (1).JPG
DSCN0311.JPG
 
I have 5 dolmar saws, I have maybe tossed 5 chains in 20+ years cutting firewood . I have a corded Makita 16" electric I have popped a couple chains on that but that was while trimming evergreens and such around the house, never in firewood. I have had a couple well used chains break over the years. They were at end of life sharpening wise anyway so no loss to pocket book or damage to me physically.
The only chains that I have come off mor often are the .043 gauge chains on 2 battery saws I use for small jobs. The .050 and .058s I have very rarely come off.
 
View attachment 951144
Took a quick photo of a couple of chains hanging on the wall. Not the same brand, and these are both used, but top chain is full size 3/8 inch pitch, and bottom chain is 3/8 low profile “picco“ type chain.

Not counting any low kick back bumpers, the depth gauge on the full size 3/8 chain measured about 0.53” (top to bottom), and about 0.45” on the low profile chain.

It’s the part below the tie strap that matters, and the tips can wear off, but this gives you a general idea why smaller pitch chains may be more prone to jumping out of the bar groove. The lighter, thinner, chain chassis probably also makes it easier to get pried over the bar groove edge.

Philbert
The drive link on the LP is shallower. This is starting to make some sense.
 
Its the bigger stronger bars, you could stick the stock bar in a cut or vise and twist the saw around with ease if you wanted to.
The drivers are the same size on full sized 3/8 and 3/8lp so big chain on its own wont help.
IMO the light 16 inch bars are on there for advertising as people think the saw will cut bigger wood with the longer bar but the small saws work better with 12-14 inch bars.
The pic below makes it look like the drive links on the LP chain are shallower
 
My old Dolmar 421 threw chains and my brand new Makita 4300 is doing it as well so it has nothing to do with worn parts. It happens frequently and involves a minor pinch usually while limbing a downed tree. The chains are not loose, I’ve tightened more than I should and it still throws chains.

I had a chain or two shortened by a link but between using different saws I lost track of determining if that solved the problem, though I think it did and there’s really nothing left to try.

it seems like a design defect in the saw if I can’t use chains off the shelf.

thoughts?
What about the drive method…drum clutch or rim sprocket? My preference learned about ten years ago is a rim sprocket. This year I became curious about the mechanical reason about a 6, 7 or 8-slot sprocket. I got sidetracked before I could complete the research. The logic is that certain chain sizes deserve specific slot sizes. Somebody out there help me describe this meaning and the differences. Thanks!
 
What about the drive method…drum clutch or rim sprocket? My preference learned about ten years ago is a rim sprocket. This year I became curious about the mechanical reason about a 6, 7 or 8-slot sprocket. I got sidetracked before I could complete the research. The logic is that certain chain sizes deserve specific slot sizes. Somebody out there help me describe this meaning and the differences. Thanks!
It’s a spur sprocket and I’m not in the mood to trying a rim. I am curious if it’s possible to run something other than a LP chain in the saw.
 
Have you tried modifying the sprocket with a big washer or the like yet? It will probably be an easy fix.
The Husqvarna battery chainsaw and pole saw are essentially set up this way. My help was able to make the clip and washer disssapear. I run it in favor of chip clearing, no washer either a c clip for the thickness or a Makita sprocket that needs thinned a bit near the shaft. If chain throwing was much issue could buy more washer things from Husqvarna.
 

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