Dragonfly Oil Info - Quack or No?

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Farmer_Nate

Better Saws are Better...and Gut that Muffler!
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I know it is terrible - a new member posting about 2-stroke oil - but here it goes!

I saw a website today about oil: http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/oil.html

This site seems to have a lot of information, and much of it makes good sense, but I think it is written for motorcycle operators. Would it apply to saws?

I have always put in whatever 2-stroke oil I could find, usually cheap or on sale, into my saws. I now live on a larger property so I do more sawing and mowing...much more than before. I thought I may want to try to take better care of my saws and weedeaters.

I recently bought cheap "County Line" oil at Tractor Supply and I seem to be having issues with starting which I didn't have before. I mix 40:1. I don't think I'll buy that anymore. I am not sure it is the oil or the operator.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-16-oz-40:1-2-stroke-engine-oil?cm_vc=-10005
Some say buy oil that is tested to
  • API: TC
  • JASO: FD
  • ISO: L-EGD
I have read here that Echo Red Armor is good, Redmax, and Amsoil.

I also read the list here

https://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/2T_EV_LIST.pdf
Thanks
 
General concensus I get from guys in here I trust, is anything FD rated is good, husqy HP+, Redmax are good, Echo red armor is very good. Last gallon I got was Redmax oil, which I just mixed 5 gallons worth. But after much conversation, and prices going up like crazy, I got 4 gallons of Red armor incoming. Should be good for a few years with that.
I'm no amsoil 2 stroke fan, but that has nothing to do with the oil and everything to do with the company. Many guys like it.
 
FD is higher detergent?

I get the impression many quality oils are OK. I also get the idea that oil is the least of the things to focus on to make saws last.

More important is buying a good pro saw to begin with, warming up the saw before revving, keeping chains sharp, keeping chain moving and not bogging the saw to keep bar oil flowing, keeping the H screw turned up to run rich for 4-stroking at WOT, stuff like that.
 
I gave the dragonfly link a read, don't know if I 100% agree with his reccomendations for inferred ratings where the oil wasn't tested. Several of his "water cooled only" oils we've ran in air cooled bikes and sleds, and rc engines with no I'll effect, minimal carbon deposites, and long engine life. Im no oil expert either. I'm sure they will stop in and give their opinions.
 
I know it is terrible - a new member posting about 2-stroke oil - but here it goes!

I saw a website today about oil: http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/oil.html

This site seems to have a lot of information, and much of it makes good sense, but I think it is written for motorcycle operators. Would it apply to saws?

I have always put in whatever 2-stroke oil I could find, usually cheap or on sale, into my saws. I now live on a larger property so I do more sawing and mowing...much more than before. I thought I may want to try to take better care of my saws and weedeaters.

I recently bought cheap "County Line" oil at Tractor Supply and I seem to be having issues with starting which I didn't have before. I mix 40:1. I don't think I'll buy that anymore. I am not sure it is the oil or the operator.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-16-oz-40:1-2-stroke-engine-oil?cm_vc=-10005
Some say buy oil that is tested to
  • API: TC
  • JASO: FD
  • ISO: L-EGD
I have read here that Echo Red Armor is good, Redmax, and Amsoil.

I also read the list here

https://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/2T_EV_LIST.pdf
Thanks
Red Armor is quality stuff , so is Dominator & Motul 800 & Shell Advanced 2T in Canada !
 
Well I come on here every now and then and this thread made me join because this has gotten completely out of hand but might as well throw some more fuel on the fire no pun intended what do you petroleum engineers think of running leaded fuel. I have ran the same mix I always ran in my bikes and my 440 and 024 love it and completely understand it's not cost effective as all for you professionals but I run 40:1 klotz and Sunoco 110 standard.
 
Could be an exposure hazard with extended use, for sure, I would think. It would be different with an airplane but with a saw the fumes do tend to linger around quite close.
Lead is a acute toxin. It doesn't take chronic exposure to affect you. And make no mistake, even minute amounts affect you.
Once lead enters your body it hides out in your bones, brain, eyes, etc snd it stays there for a very long time.
 
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