Echo CC-361P experience?

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zuren

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Pending a conversation with the wife, I think I will be in the market for a new (and modern) chainsaw soon. I'm mostly dealing with storm cleanup and clearing invasive brush. My 2 smaller saws are not making me happing any more:

- Homelite LX-30 Bandit - Top-ish handle that never ran right when a guy gave it to me. I found that the compression is low and I'm not sure that the saw is worth the time and money to fix (probably a new head, rings, gaskets). Probably looking at $30-40 by the time I'm into parts and shipping. I might be money ahead on a new saw.
- Poulan 2025 - a green, box store gem that everyone loves to hate. Despite running this for the past 12 years, I haven't killed it...but I take care of it (good gas and 2 stroke oil). But it is heavy at 11.5 lbs. for a 32cc saw. I think something smaller/lighter would be better for the tight, brushy places I go into.

I'm considering getting rid of both of those saws and replacing with an Echo CC-361. I see a few people have them - still happy with your purchase? This would be paired with a 50cc Poulan Pro that rarely gets run (only for the big stuff), so I would be reducing down from 3 saws to 2 relatively new saws that would run well.

I've compared the 361P to competing models for Husqvarna and Stihl, and on paper, the Echo seems to be the better value with features I like (e.g., 2 bar nuts, adjustable oiler). So just wondering if I should continue in my pursuit of finding one.

Thanks!
 
I've had my CS-361P for 5 years. Still love it. I picked up a used muffler off a CS-355 (its an open can, the 361P muffler has a cat), added an extra outlet in the deflector, retuned and switched to Stihl PS/PS3 chain. 14" bar on mine. The 361P is the rear-handled version of the CS-355, of which you'll find plenty of very positive reviews. If I were buying today I might also look at the new CS-3510. Just a tiny bit less displacement and weight, and $140 cheaper. Not a pro model, but will probably work just as well for what you're planning to use it for.
 
I have two new 361p for our storm cleanup team. I have a cs-400 for personal use. I really like all of them, but in my opinion the 361p is not worth the extra money. The cs-400 has much better air filtration.

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Regarding "The cs-400 has much better air filtration ", in what way? I'm not challenging, just curious - I haven't seen the 400. I've never seen evidence of fines getting through my 361P filter, and its been easy to keep clean.
 
Regarding "The cs-400 has much better air filtration ", in what way? I'm not challenging, just curious - I haven't seen the 400. I've never seen evidence of fines getting through my 361P filter, and its been easy to keep clean.
Good point and poor choice of wording on my part! The 361p has a traditional paper/cloth filter element. The cs-400 has an automotive style pleated filter. I have no evidence that either style is better or worse. The automotive style just "feels" higher quality to me. The 361p does have a nice rubber o-ring where the filter attaches to the carb intake. Agree I have not seen any evidence of fines in the carb intake.

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Just to update this thread, I pulled the trigger on a CS-361P in 14" and will be picking it up tomorrow. Everything I read on it was positive, and it checked all of my boxes, so I'm looking forward to using it on the recent windstorm damage that came down on my trails.

The CS-400 looks like a good saw, but is a different class than what I wanted. It has 20% more weight for 11% more power and fewer "pro" features (e.g., clutch driven oiler on the 361P).

Thanks for the feedback!
 
If you don't have the carb tool (large D, I think) handy to adjust the 361P, you can DIY one from a brass coupling for 1/4" plastic hose. File a notch across the end with a 5/32" (or a bit smaller) file. I had to very slightly enlarge the inside with a drill bit, and take a little off the outside circumference by chucking it up in the drill and running it across some coarse sandpaper. At least there are no limiters to pull.
 
If you don't have the carb tool (large D, I think) handy to adjust the 361P, you can DIY one from a brass coupling for 1/4" plastic hose. File a notch across the end with a 5/32" (or a bit smaller) file. I had to very slightly enlarge the inside with a drill bit, and take a little off the outside circumference by chucking it up in the drill and running it across some coarse sandpaper. At least there are no limiters to pull.
Mine (bought this fall) came with standard slotted screws.

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I have determined there is an Oregon rim drive 544679X kit for these but can not figure out from the parts sheet and what pictures I have found on line if there is anything needed to make the oiler worm work extra that is needed. Any of you guys taken the clutch off?

The two strato saws I have need to have the fast idle set to reliably start on one pull and that should mean setting the chain brake. Does it start reliably at idle? This one has a stuffed crank and no strato.
 
That Oregon is a 1/4" rim drive. It cuts great with 3/8" LP Stihl PS/PS3, why are you looking to change? To answer your question, no I haven't pulled the clutch yet. The spurs aren't quite worn enough yet, though I'll probably replace it as soon as the current chain is used up. If there were a 3/8LP rim available I might consider that.
 
Really the only rim is a Stihl mini spline but one would need a Stihl product. I have a good supply of 1/4 inch chain. This is sort of similar to the Husqvarna 339xp that came with .325NK and a rim drive. I have used a few loops of ps3 it is good and one can get 25 feet off ebay for not much over $100. I have had the chain come off with the spur drive and had to walk back due to banged up drive links, It isn't that hard to put another chain in a baggie and in the pocket for this size of stuff. Strange how I have not had that happen with battery stuff but with gasoline even pole saws yes. If one only wanted a spur the Makita 3601 would be a comparable, clever design as opposed to stuffed crank.
 
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