Echo CS-490 DEAD after 11.5 months?

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I was mechanical supervisor for government forestry forest protection. After experiencing scored cylinders on some 2 stroke engines I switched our 2 stroke oil to Amsoil synthetic 2 stroke oil. In the next 2 years there were no more scored cylinders. An analysis lab report showed very little wear on an engine with 200 hours on it and very little ash and carbon deposits compared to one with regular 2 stroke oil. I'd rate Amsoil synthetic very high.
Not to turn this into an oil thread , I also use Amsoil sabre . However improper tuning most likely caused this issue or an air leak . If warranty does not resolve . Put another piston & rings in it after you clean up the cylinder . It may have been boarder line lean requiring retuning to begin with from the factory , which a lot of Echo's are !
 
Glad the OP got his money back. I have the same saw, CS490 and it's been perfect. No dust ingestion at all. Id be curious to learn how it was bypassing the filter.
I just bought the next in line model after the 490, the 4910. Love it, but after 4 tanks of gas I decided to pull the air filter and clean the underside. There was fine particulate/dust inside the filter in the area that seats on the carb horn. There was also a light coating of dust on the inside of the carb throat as well. The seal looks inadequate for doing the job, and looked slightly deformed on one side. Thankfully I noticed it relatively "early" and any wear should be negligible - I hope. I put some dielectric grease on the mating surface, burned a tank of gas and will be checking it again today.
It's ridiculous that the filter seal is so flimsy for such a critical function.
 
The bigger question is why it scored, there are other reasons besides straight gassing that can score pistons. You didn’t mention what ratio mix you were using, but tuned for a 50 to 1, and if you used let’s say 32 to 1, saw will run hotter and leaner and can score a piston if not re tuned for the different mix. There are many other reasons too. When a saw starts acting up, it’s best to stop using it and find out why before damage begins.




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Opposite. 50:1 is lean on the oil 32:1 more oil.
 
So, honest question...looking back at what I've told you in the initial post, what could I've done differently and what's your definition of ****** gas? I know you're saying that I should've stopped using it when I noticed problems, but I essentially did. I shelved the saw when i noticed the bogging/stalling until I received the tune up kit, which took a week. Then, I didn't use it for a week. Then, I brought it back out, and used it for about 5 minutes until I realized the issue wasn't resolved. It took a few days to get to the small engine guy. Then, he had it for 8 days before he called with the bad news. When I say I noticed the problem start up a month ago, I was not using it daily.

Looking back, I changed the factory chain about 6 weeks ago because it just wasn't cutting as well as it used to. I attributed this to a worn out chain as I was still on the original. Maybe, that was the actual start of the problem? But, at that point, the engine seemed fine.

I know I'm not the most experienced 2 cycle guy, but I am very conscientious with my tools and aware of their behavior and discrepancies. I guess maybe you're just saying chainsaws are fragile beasts?
Chainsaws aren't fragile when set up right, they just require a bit of maintenance to stay that way. I've hardly ever received a saw to repair that wasn't filthy, neglected or abused. Wife thinks I should charge a substantial amount extra for cleaning a filthy saw before I repair it..
 
Not very helpful. Plenty of people rag on Echos saying they are lean but then never pony up and offer a real solution on how to adjust them. If you truly do know what you are talking about why dont you tell us novice users how to adjust the screws.
I was told that the Echo saws have a fixed high speed jet, although a screw is there marked H it is only for fine adjustments and has only a one turn range. That's why the limiter is put on the screw. Turning it further than one turn actually doesn't make it richer, it's beyond the carb's limit. Like I said, I just read this but have had limited experience tuning Echo saws..I only have one Echo saw, a 330T.
 
The OP's saw was scored because of particle ingestion. It got in through the filter, presumably around the carb/filter seal. That's where my new saw is leaking. The OP posted this a few pages ago.
 
70's actually is correct , you must retune your saw to the richer oil mixture . More oil means less fuel in the air ratio which can lean your saw out . You must enriched the fuel to air ratio or you can overheat the powerhead !
Oil lubricates and cools as well, so...
 
Did anyone ever hear anyone else (besides me) say. The Echo cs310 is not, no nunca, no ever is going to be half as good as the cs352. The cs310 is IMHO a market saw to drive the price up on the cs352. If Echo tossed the 310 right out the back door and dropped the price just a little bit on the cs 352 id jump for Joy. Joy would probably Dodge me. Maybe even tell on me. But seriously. I HAD a cs310. The cs352 has better AV. Better motor not just 4 cc better, better as BETTER. Better Air breather. So the outside plastic looks the same. Salesman tells Johnny Homeowner. Ah, sir this in here is 199 an tax. That in over their is jus 4 cc bigger ifn you need bigger BUT they are identical really sepn da motor. No liar. Jesus hates you. Truth. Truth is I wasted money on a 310 before I realized I'd been hoping to ride the bull but It was me the bill rode. Please, everyone, please stop thinking just because some things favor they are sisters. Get the cs352 and pay the piper the difference. Echo knows this fact. But money honey, that's the name of the game. Disclaimer:
I hate the cs310 I had,. Yours might wash the car, do laundry and milk the goat. Ifn you like yourn well den I'ma happy pappy. ;)
so Jesus hates him,,,your the liar,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
Extra Oil does not cool , it helps seal the rings in a high compression application and can in saws that are not tuned properly , for the extra oil cause deposits and over heating . Fuel cools a properly tuned saw !
Any mass (oil in this case) at ambient temps being sucked into a higher temperature environment will absorb some of that heat, thereby cooling the new environment it finds itself in - the crankcase, then cylinder. So yes, oil cools, along with the fuel it's mixed in. I'd expect raw gasoline to absorb heat faster than oil, but at what point does extra oil make a significant difference?
 
Any mass (oil in this case) at ambient temps being sucked into a higher temperature environment will absorb some of that heat, thereby cooling the new environment it finds itself in - the crankcase, then cylinder. So yes, oil cools, along with the fuel it's mixed in. I'd expect raw gasoline to absorb heat faster than oil, but at what point does extra oil make a significant difference?
Todays oils are a LOT better than the old oils and don't need to be mixed so heavily, To much oil in the mix actually causes problems because now you get carbon build up that can damage the piston (especially at the exhaust port) even Homelite had in their manuals to pull the muffler cover and if carbon was built up to pull the engine over until the piston covered the port and use something soft like wood or plastic to remove the carbon build up.
A lot of people confuse lean/rich with the oil mixture ratio. Lean and Rich refer only to the fuel to air ratio, take carborated cars for example, oil has nothing to do with lean and rich it's only air to fuel ratio and it's the same on 2 strokes as well. To little fuel either being the jet is in to far or to much oil which displaces fuel by volume causes the engine to run lean. So the heavier the oil mix ratio the leaner the saw runs and has to have the jets set richer to compensate.
Again I know it gets confusing and I was under the belief that more oil was better until I read some repair manuals that explained it to where I could understand it but Broken is correct in saying more oil makes an engine run leaner, Hopefully I explained it well enough for you to understand the reasoning behind why it works that way.👍
 
Todays oils are a LOT better than the old oils and don't need to be mixed so heavily, To much oil in the mix actually causes problems because now you get carbon build up that can damage the piston (especially at the exhaust port) even Homelite had in their manuals to pull the muffler cover and if carbon was built up to pull the engine over until the piston covered the port and use something soft like wood or plastic to remove the carbon build up.
A lot of people confuse lean/rich with the oil mixture ratio. Lean and Rich refer only to the fuel to air ratio, take carborated cars for example, oil has nothing to do with lean and rich it's only air to fuel ratio and it's the same on 2 strokes as well. To little fuel either being the jet is in to far or to much oil which displaces fuel by volume causes the engine to run lean. So the heavier the oil mix ratio the leaner the saw runs and has to have the jets set richer to compensate.
Again I know it gets confusing and I was under the belief that more oil was better until I read some repair manuals that explained it to where I could understand it but Broken is correct in saying more oil makes an engine run leaner, Hopefully I explained it well enough for you to understand the reasoning behind why it works that way.👍
Thanks for the response. I don't confuse oil mix ratio with lean and rich which describes amount of fuel to air ratio.
My response was not a suggestion that more oil is better either. It was simply an observation that oil does have cooling as well as lubrication properties. I expect it doesn't cool as efficiently, or at least as quickly as straight gasoline, because it vaporizes at higher temps than gasoline. Oil also burns and counts as fuel.
I can see however, that oil added to gasoline would reduce the amount of fuel that is actually burned during combustion in an internal combustion engine, thereby effectively causing a leaner burn.
 
Any mass (oil in this case) at ambient temps being sucked into a higher temperature environment will absorb some of that heat, thereby cooling the new environment it finds itself in - the crankcase, then cylinder. So yes, oil cools, along with the fuel it's mixed in. I'd expect raw gasoline to absorb heat faster than oil, but at what point does extra oil make a significant difference.

so Jesus hates him,,,your the liar,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Oops e poo. Someone seems to have taken that comment seriously. I doubt Jesus hates anyone. I know I don't. That salesman was hypothetical. My weird sense of humor thing. So lets all agree. It has some truth, some hypothetical, and some humor. Have a great day.
 
Any mass (oil in this case) at ambient temps being sucked into a higher temperature environment will absorb some of that heat, thereby cooling the new environment it finds itself in - the crankcase, then cylinder. So yes, oil cools, along with the fuel it's mixed in. I'd expect raw gasoline to absorb heat faster than oil, but at what point does extra oil make a significant difference?
Yes , some flashing oil will wick off ambient heat but the fuel is much more efficient by chemical composition to more readily accomplish this task . The jest of my comments is that more saws are damaged by dull chains & improper tuning than oil starvation . More oil can cause potential damage unless your saw is tuned accordingly . Also not all oils are equal either within this equation either :) .
 
Thanks for the response. I don't confuse oil mix ratio with lean and rich which describes amount of fuel to air ratio.
My response was not a suggestion that more oil is better either. It was simply an observation that oil does have cooling as well as lubrication properties. I expect it doesn't cool as efficiently, or at least as quickly as straight gasoline, because it vaporizes at higher temps than gasoline. Oil also burns and counts as fuel.
I can see however, that oil added to gasoline would reduce the amount of fuel that is actually burned during combustion in an internal combustion engine, thereby effectively causing a leaner burn.
Sorry bud , did not see this previous post . Your on the same page , Re: Fuel to oil ratio vs Fuel to air ratio's within tuning . Actually , in my opinion richer oil ratios from 32:1 on through to the infamous 16:1 is where oil becomes a liability within today's chainsaws & premium oils ( exception in Milling applications with proper tuning )The Optimium fuel to oil ratio in my opinion today is 45:1 with premium FD rated synthetic oil . Unless , as I believe you understand the saw is run long enough & becomes hot enough to burn off the oil residue that is initially used for lubrication , cooling & energy it will become a liability as potential engine deposits that after a finite period become carbon that can wreak havoc within piston dome , ring & exhaust port carbon fouling . Proper mixing along with proper tuning & oil selection to your cutting application , will ensure maximum performance & reliability . Happy New Yr. & enjoy your cutting !
 
more saws are damaged by dull chains & improper tuning than oil starvation


Most saws are damaged by running them when they dont run right for what ever reason. Quit running them when they dont run right. Steve
Buy Echo's Steve , end of concerns right ? lol. Especially your favorite CS400 with a muffler mod ! P.S. Your absolutely correct , if its not operating properly , do not continue to operate it , repair it .
 
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