ECHO CS-590- IDLING PROBLEM

[Richard Terry]

Hi all,

I have an Echo CS-590, it's about 3 years old, lately I have found that when the engine is warm it doesn't idle properly. What happens is when I release the trigger the RPM drops and it goes to idle then the RPM picks up again and the chain starts to move. When this happens the stop switch will not shut off the engine. I have found that pulling the choke in and out will bring it back down to an idle.

I don't have a lot of experience with engines, I did adjust the idle screw and it seemed to improve temporarily. After that I took it to a local dealer. He looked it over and recommended replacing the saw as the carb looked dirty and the carb is so expensive. That being said I don't think he cleaned the carb or attempted to adjust the High/Low screws.

I have now cleaned the carb (which didn't look dirty to me) and have the limiter caps off. I haven't put everything back together yet. But I am a little hesitant to tune the carb due to my inexperience and lack of a tachometer.

Should I attempt it? Is that even the likely problem?

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[Stateline Sawer]

Hi all,

I have an Echo CS-590, it's about 3 years old, lately I have found that when the engine is warm it doesn't idle properly. What happens is when I release the trigger the RPM drops and it goes to idle then the RPM picks up again and the chain starts to move. When this happens the stop switch will not shut off the engine. I have found that pulling the choke in and out will bring it back down to an idle.

I don't have a lot of experience with engines, I did adjust the idle screw and it seemed to improve temporarily. After that I took it to a local dealer. He looked it over and recommended replacing the saw as the carb looked dirty and the carb is so expensive. That being said I don't think he cleaned the carb or attempted to adjust the High/Low screws.

I have now cleaned the carb (which didn't look dirty to me) and have the limiter caps off. I haven't put everything back together yet. But I am a little hesitant to tune the carb due to my inexperience and lack of a tachometer.

Should I attempt it? Is that even the likely problem?

Thanks for any help in advance.

You don't need a tach to adjust the carb. It kinda sounds like a coil issue or maybe two issues, carb out of adjustment and bad on/off toggle. Hard to diagnose from so far away. How did it run prior to all this? Echo's are one of the most trouble free brands of saws I've ever laid hands on.

 

[Richard Terry]

It ran fine prior to this.

i don't think the on/off toggle switch is the problem as it will work as long as it's idling correctly. Once it gets into the situation where the RPM keeps picking back up then it doesn't work. But if I bring the idle back to normal by pulling the choke out and in, then the switch will operate.

All this being said, I just put the saw back together (the dealer had left the carb out and everything in pieces) and now it's not starting . Previously I had no problem with starting. It has been a couple of weeks since I got it back from the dealer. The only things I have done is clean the carb, remove the limiter caps ready to tune, & adjust idle screw in and out (could that be in the wrong position?)

 

[Stateline Sawer]

It ran fine prior to this.

i don't think the on/off toggle switch is the problem as it will work as long as it's idling correctly. Once it gets into the situation where the RPM keeps picking back up then it doesn't work. But if I bring the idle back to normal by pulling the choke out and in, then the switch will operate.

All this being said, I just put the saw back together (the dealer had left the carb out and everything in pieces) and now it's not starting . Previously I had no problem with starting. It has been a couple of weeks since I got it back from the dealer. The only things I have done is clean the carb, remove the limiter caps ready to tune, & adjust idle screw in and out (could that be in the wrong position?)

The switch should always kill the engine when flipped to off, regardless of rpm. Yes carb could be way out of tune. Try gently turning H and L screws until lightly seated (clock wise). Mark your screw driver in such a way you can count 1.5 turns back out (counter clock wise). That is the base line to start with when fine tuning carb. Idle done as last step.
To bad you weren't close to Illinois, I'd have it tuned and even muffler modded in 30 min! Lol. I've done loads of these. Not ruling out something with coil however...

 

[Stateline Sawer]

The switch should always kill the engine when flipped to off, regardless of rpm. Yes carb could be way out of tune. Try gently turning H and L screws until lightly seated (clock wise). Mark your screw driver in such a way you can count 1.5 turns back out (counter clock wise). That is the base line to start with when fine tuning carb. Idle done as last step.
To bad you weren't close to Illinois, I'd have it tuned and even muffler modded in 30 min! Lol. I've done loads of these. Not ruling out something with coil however...

Maybe another member will chime in shortly with a theory. Those Timber wolves are strong runners when allowed to breath and tune correctly.

 

[Richard Terry]

Ok. And what about the new non-start issue?

Illinois may not be too far if I get desparate enough!

 

[Stateline Sawer]

Ok. And what about the new non-start issue?

Illinois may not be too far if I get desparate enough!

Everything reinstalled correctly? Linkages, carb gaskets? It's so hard to say. Sure, drive it on down! Lol. Your dealer/mechanic up there kinda sounds like a turd...

 

[Richard Terry]

Ok. And what about the new non-start issue?

Illinois may not be too far if I get desparate enough!

Ok. And what about the new non-start issue?

Illinois may not be too far if I get desparate enough!

Ok. I have now checked the spark plug and there's no spark. So I guess next I need to look at the coil or the kill switch

 

[Stateline Sawer]

Ok. I have now checked the spark plug and there's no spark. So I guess next I need to look at the coil or the kill switch

Those things have a 5 year warranty. Take it back to dealer and demand a new one. That's what I'd do. I'd probably leave with two of them! Lol.

 

[Richard Terry]

Those things have a 5 year warranty. Take it back to dealer and demand a new one. That's what I'd do. I'd probably leave with two of them! Lol.

Ok. I disconnected the kill switch from the coil ( At least 99% sure I did although I don't have diagram handy). And still no spark. So I guess it could be the plug, coil or the plug wire.

Which parts got the 5 year warranty, the coil, switch, plug?

I will bring it back to the dealer I bought it from (Not the dealer I just got it back from) but he's closed until the end of the month. Sooooo I guess I will buy a new plug and test that. Do you think it will be an issue that I removed the limiter caps? Even though I didn't actually tune it?

Pretty sure I got everything back together ok. Although the dealer removed the carb so I didn't get to see how all the linkage went together. But they are pretty nicely laid out, didn't seem like you could really connect the linkage up wrong it only really fit one way.

 

[Stateline Sawer]

Ok. I disconnected the kill switch from the coil ( At least 99% sure I did although I don't have diagram handy). And still no spark. So I guess it could be the plug, coil or the plug wire.

Which parts got the 5 year warranty, the coil, switch, plug?

I will bring it back to the dealer I bought it from (Not the dealer I just got it back from) but he's closed until the end of the month. Sooooo I guess I will buy a new plug and test that. Do you think it will be an issue that I removed the limiter caps? Even though I didn't actually tune it?

Pretty sure I got everything back together ok. Although the dealer removed the carb so I didn't get to see how all the linkage went together. But they are pretty nicely laid out, didn't seem like you could really connect the linkage up wrong it only really fit one way.

You still got the limiter caps? If so reinstall. Any Echo dealer should honor warranty and I'd march it right back to the guy who took it apart and have deal with it, while its fresh in everyone's minds. If he gives you issues, call Echo and explain/complain...which ever works best for you! Lol. I wouldn't go any further with it on your own since it's still under warranty.

 

[Richard Terry]

I still have the caps. I think I will throw a new spark plug in and see if that has spark. If so then I can at least figure out if the carb cleaning helped with my original problem. IfI still don't have spark, or the original issue of the RPM running back up is still there I will take it in. I just don't know how a quickly I can get to that.

Thanks for your help

 

[Jasent]

The rpm going up and kill switch not working definitely sounds like a coil issue. Without the kill switch issues I’d think air leak

 

[Richard Terry]

So I put in a new spark plug. I am getting some spark but I think it's pretty weak and the engine is not starting.

 

[Stateline Sawer]

RT
Did you get your Echo sorted out yet?

 

[Richard Terry]

Not yet. The dealer I bought it from reopens tomorrow. I will be there at 8am sharp to drop it off! I figure out it is an issue with the coil it should be covered under warranty. I will update you.

 

[Stateline Sawer]

Not yet. The dealer I bought it from reopens tomorrow. I will be there at 8am sharp to drop it off! I figure out it is an issue with the coil it should be covered under warranty. I will update you.

Thanks! I feel invested in your machine. Then the fun comes, with extremely easy muffler mod and slight carb tune..it'll impress you afterward I promise!

 

[rmh3481]

Take the recoil screws out and use a business card to set the air gap between the coil and the flywheel. Im thinking those screws vibrated loose and the gap closed causing a ground and loss of spark. Disconnect the kill switch wire and look for frayed areas while your in there. Leave the wire disconnected for your tests.

 

[Richard Terry]

So.... I'm back!

Sorry for not keeping you updated. Once I finally got things resolved i was massively behind on my clearing project and don't seem to have stopped since.

Anyway I did take the saw back to my the dealer I purchased it from and after some back and forth he also thought it maybe a carb issue. Surprisingly I was able to get it under warranty from Echo. I was very impressed with how my dealer and Echo handled things. Anyway i ran the saw quite a bit April and May, clearing some trees and it was running great. Then it has been sat in the shed until today. Now it appears I am having the same problem. The saw starts fine and runs normally until the engine is warm, then when I release the throttle it goes down to an idle but then starts to rev up again and the chain keeps spinning. When this happens the kill switch will not work (But it does if it's running normally) and the only way to get the RPM down is to pull the choke out and in.

I am going to take it back into the dealer (hopefully tomorrow) but was wondering if anyone had any ideas? Is this some sort of air leak? If so where should I be looking? Thank you!

 

[Den]

RT, sorry to hear your having all of these trouble's with your Echo.
Echo's were the saw that first interested me in collecting saws. In all the Echo's I've had, none of them behaved like yours.
Wish I had advice for you... but electrical stuff is my weak point.

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