echo ppt 265 es pole saw long term review vs stihl pole saws ht 75

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I have not used any of the fixed length units.
One thing I do know is that you are never going to break solid shaft.
You mention weight. I am only 8.5 stone and I manage alright. I think they are much better balanced for what I use it for. Never could figure out why you want to hold a line trimming up in the air.
I like the sliding type as it gives better options than fixed length.
I have just assembled my new unit. The shop would normally do this for many reasons. But I would of only come home and taken apart.
There are a few tricks I have learnt over the years. One is to take apart and pop the seal on the bearings and pack them with grease. Only do the downward side not the top seals. This will help the bearings going for a lot longer than if you do not. I also lube with grease, the flexy lower drive shaft, oil the sliding drive shaft. I change the locking handle from the knob to a bar type. Throw away the clip for the strap. That is a total waste.
Assemble and power up.
One comment I have had, is that a cover should be fitted to the circular saw head? I do not figure this as there is not one for the chain saw.
Always wear safety gear. And like any tool keep the bloody thing sharp. Sharp cuts. Blunt throws.

The kill joy is that you have to destroy a chainsaw head to do this. So comes at a cost. But this time I found a secondhand one on Ebay and had it shipped down to me.

The new drive head. You can see I spent a bit more time cutting and grinding on this new one, Than the first one.
IMG_1251s_zpsgqpvth43.jpg


The old drive head. Yes it is broken in the clamp so used a hose clamp. It's done some good hours and still going great, so loath to toss it just yet.
IMG_1253s_zpserjv8igs.jpg


The knob conversion.
IMG_1252s_zpsokkxlptu.jpg



Photo of clean cut off. Not that good, but it was from a loose bit of branch on the ground
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And a bit of vid using it. Don't pick on me. It is stupid using any cutting tools like this. It was only as I could not figure out how to get shots in the air cutting a limb or trimming.
But as you can see it still cuts well on loose stuff, without throwing it around too much.
 
A lot of people might poo poo your idea but I think it's great. When I was in NZ I saw a similar thing on a much larger scale - looked like something out of mad max. Was a good size truck chassis maybe a 15 tonner which had all the cab and body removed and was armor plated. Had twin diesels, one for driving the truck and a bigger one for the hydraulics. Big arm with a reach of about 80' that also rotated in many different ways and on the end was mounted a 6' circular saw blade. For trimming up the enormous hedges all round farms in the south island. Wish I had of videod it, that thing made trees explode. Didn't stop, just kept driving along topping kilometers of hedge. Then reset the blade for the face and do a few more passes.

Have you got a closeup photo of how you adapted the sprocket to take a bolt/nut?
 
We looked at trying to play around with existing shaft. But just no good option was found.
That is where you need a good tool maker (engineer). You take the shaft out and throw it away and make a new one, to take the blade.
The shaft is a pain as it has many steps in it. And you have to have left hand thread turned on it.
I can get the drawing with all the measurements.

You are talking Shelter Belts. Some of those contractors charge well, but do have some strange saw set ups.
 
A lot of people might poo poo your idea but I think it's great. When I was in NZ I saw a similar thing on a much larger scale - looked like something out of mad max. Was a good size truck chassis maybe a 15 tonner which had all the cab and body removed and was armor plated. Had twin diesels, one for driving the truck and a bigger one for the hydraulics. Big arm with a reach of about 80' that also rotated in many different ways and on the end was mounted a 6' circular saw blade. For trimming up the enormous hedges all round farms in the south island. Wish I had of videod it, that thing made trees explode. Didn't stop, just kept driving along topping kilometers of hedge. Then reset the blade for the face and do a few more passes.

I will join the poo poo club here. It is often I need the reach of the 44 drive link cutting attachment due to only being able to cut the thing I want to an an extreme angle due to branch placement and available footing.

There are in some rural places helicopters dangling perhaps 5 blades arranged vertically powered by a twin cylinder diesel also in the dangling assembly to trim power line right of ways. Not everywhere do the power lines follow the roads.
 
I will join the poo poo club here. It is often I need the reach of the 44 drive link cutting attachment due to only being able to cut the thing I want to an an extreme angle due to branch placement and available footing.

There are in some rural places helicopters dangling perhaps 5 blades arranged vertically powered by a twin cylinder diesel also in the dangling assembly to trim power line right of ways. Not everywhere do the power lines follow the roads.

Hi Franny Poo Poo man.
Are you saying you like the ripped cut over a nice pruning cut? Would that make you a tree butcher, not a tree pruner. Or you feel the extra reach of a 12in blade makes that much difference in reach. The chainsaw makes a mess of the smaller stuff as it bounces around and why I do not like it.
Most of the time I would be using this attachment on hedges anyway, and that is where is shines over the chainsaw or reciprocating hedge trimmers.
Chainsaws are no good full stop. Limited reach, and always the chance of knocking the chain off. The reciprocating saws are limited to what size they will cut, where as the circular saw does not give a toss, and cuts cleanly from the smallest the the bigger stuff, you are likely to strike in a overgrown hedge.

There is a youtube vid showing the Heli saw at work somewhere. Flying down the sides of High Voltage Powerlines.
 
I have an old chainsaw head for my echo which is a bit bashed up and an ideal candidate for this type of conversion - the oil tank is cracked. If you do have a drawing I'd much appreciate it.
 
The machine I saw was like the one in the second vid, only bigger and a bit more mad max. It had arms like the one shown, and also a 6' circular saw blade. The guy driving it must have been on a hurry cause he was blasting along the road a lot quicker than the guy shown in this vid
 
So, I was comparing powered pole saws, and came to these broad generalizations. Tell me if they make sense:

Fixed Length Powered Pole Saws

- least expensive to buy;
- simplest construction - all one piece;
- less maintenance/repair likely - all one piece;
- limited reach (typically around 7 feet long), but could be good for low level branches, or working from a bucket.

Sectional Power Pole Saws (STIHL Kombi, ECHO PAS, Husqvarna Multi Purpose, etc.)

- most versatile - powerhead can be used with other accessories;
- compact - break down to shortest length for storage or transport in car, etc.;
- close in price to telescoping pole saw once powerhead, extension, and pole saw added up.

Telescoping

- heaviest weight;
- longest practical reach;
- longest to store/transport;
- stiffest, due to larger diameter inner and/or outer shaft diameter;
- work at any length/extension - may fit into spaces more easily than fixed length or sectional saws;
- highest maintenance potential due to sliding drive shaft components;
- most expensive to purchase.

Other

Of course, each of these styles is available with different powerhead displacements, different brand preferences/design advantages, etc.

Philbert
 
So, I was comparing powered pole saws, and came to these broad generalizations. Tell me if they make sense:



Philbert
I guess your broad generalizations are ok perhaps some nit picking.

The Stihl fixed length option the HT 56 C-E is really of sectional design.
Do not confuse reach and length.
Pole pruners, chainsaws on a stick whatever you wish to call them, dedicated ones seem to have no loop, bicycle or other hand hold parts. I suspect the combination you are classing as sectional usually has some sort of hand hold device.
The telescoping ones are the longest even when collapsed and just the cutting attachment/gearbox assembly put directly on a straight shaft trimmer type device is the shortest.
I can not comment on bucket work but working out of the basket of a manlift, one about 8 feet long with space to set the telescoping one down it saves moving the hydraulics or wheels using the telescope function at times.
The telescoping ones, well the one I have the shaft kind of creeps out if the top of the bar is not used. It is minimized if the branch to be cut is pressed against what would be bucking spikes. I have had to use a piece of twine to keep it short.
 
Good point in telescoping being longest to store or transport when collapsed - won't fit in some vehicles.

For the sectional ones, I assumed that the user would have the option of one, 30-36 inch (typical) extension. The telescoping pole saws seem to extend farther than that. Using more than one extension was not advised ny manufacturers, but may be possible.

BTW I had to go into a couple of dealer shops with a tape measure to get somewhat accurate 'end-to-tip' measurements. Some catalogs list only the shaft length, some list length without the bar, some "12 inch" bars are quite a bit shorter, etc.

After resolving that, lengths by type ame out pretty close.

Philbert
 
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